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Posts: 336
Location: Lino Lakes, MN | So I have been tinkering around with the idea of weighting some baits for the local guys and some friends to toss early in the year. The current baits are really bouyant and I figured it would be nice to have a few that wouldnt back up so quick for the spring. I crank out about 20 baits and give the weighting an eye shot. Drilled all the same depth holes and poured what I didnt think was too much lead in each. Fast forward to today when Im pumped to give the baits to everyone...I pull up to Tuffy1's rig and go to toss him a bait. Needless to say he doesnt have the best of hands and it hit the water. He looks at me with a straight face and goes "I guess that batch was a little too heavy". Sure as hell, every single bait sinks. Do any of you guys have any good methods for getting the weighting of crank and twitch baits right, or is it just trial and error? I just dont want to toast too much time if there is an easier way of getting this done. Id really appreciate the help. Glad to be back on the water. Thanks fellas. |
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Posts: 4266
| I have screw eyes that I use, that have eggsinkers on them. For balancing and weighting, I screw the eyes with the weights into the lure where I think that it needs weight, and then tank test them. I'm very suprised at how much or how little it takes to do the job. Guess you should have dropped them in my kid's aquarium first, just like I do.
Beav |
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Posts: 336
Location: Lino Lakes, MN | Yeah, i guess the bathtub or sink would have been a good idea. |
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Posts: 141
| Each bait has to be individualy tested as wood density often varies, I test with hook hangers, hooks, line tie and even the leader to get perfection every time. |
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Location: Des Moines IA | Just call 'em "countdown rippers" ...... |
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| Lazer,
Use mono and tie it around the lure. Leave a short length remaining off the end. Use split shot on the line to figure out weight location and needed amount. If you don't have a aquarium.... The 18 gallon storage containers they sell at Target works great and cost $5.00
Good luck!
S- |
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Posts: 336
Location: Lino Lakes, MN | Thanks for the ideas guys. Cady->thats a great idea that I never would have thought of. I have tank that I can use that will work great. Time to get back into the basement and get this set up. Thanks again.
Eric |
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Posts: 4266
| It's more fun scaring the fish!!!! 
Beav |
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| u better watch beav, they might start taxing you for "testing on animals"
LMAO!! |
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Posts: 479
Location: Eden Prairie & Pine Island | Rubber band on a sinker, have a variety of sinkers, test 'em in a tank. Once in awhile I even get oak that sinks with just screw eyes and hooks, no weight, go figure! |
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Posts: 3240
Location: Racine, Wi | For the record, You threw that about 5 feet too short, when I wasn't looking. You say "Dude, I got something for ya" next thing I know this bait is flying over. Not being one to catch a bait with hooks on it, I let it hit the water so I could grab it. Guess what, it didn't float. LOL
Eric, the action on those baits is rock'n. Get it down to where they don't sink, but just hang, and you've got a winner. Keep up the good work. |
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Posts: 2378
| dude, you can fix those pretty easy. just drill some lead out and test them in the sink. drill a little lead at a time, until they are where you want them.
refill the hole with bondo or something and clear over it. good as new
Edited by BALDY 5/8/2006 1:43 PM
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Posts: 280
Location: Pewaukee WI | Lead is the worst part of the job. Thats why I try to stick away from lead if possible. Try melting in lead into a hole that you will think will be slightly too heavy and then try out your bait. If it is too heavy drill out some of the cooled lead and try again. You can actually drill out the lead w/ the same bit. Keep doing it until it is the perfect weight and then fill it in w/ wood filler. hope this helps
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Posts: 480
| Another way is take a drill and a drill bit the same size as the original hole and bore out some of the lead. When it hangs or just barely sinks, plug the hole after it dries with filler. Add primer, paint and top coats and you're ready to go. Hope this helps |
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Posts: 336
Location: Lino Lakes, MN | Thanks a ton for all the help and advice guys. I wouldnt have thought of some of this stuff. Its nice to know that guys are willing to share some tips with a fellow baitmaker. Hopefully Ill get to a point where I can hand out some advice and knowledge to somebody thats trying to get started. Ill post some pictures when I get this batch envirotexed. Thanks again.
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| Laze,
One more tip. Inside the hole you drill... insert a small screw. It will anchor the lead as it hardens around the screw.
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Posts: 4266
| I stay away from just wood filler. Shrinks, cracks....I only use it for finish work.
I found an industrial strength 2-part epoxy that is the cosistency of honey, and has a 2 hour pot life. I fill a 2 ounce bottle and fill each weight hole until it's 1/4 " from the top, then I put in a filler that the same company makes after the epoxy cures. It's also 2 part, doesn't shrink and dries as hard as a rock, but I overfill each hole and then use my belt/disc sander.
I agree with these guys. If it's too heavy, just drill out the excess until it's right. And since it's a small batch, use some Devcon 2-ton instead of filler. It penetrates the wood, and holds that lead in place better than just wood filler.
Nothin' I hate more than cracks around weights under the clear.
Beav
Edited by Beaver 5/9/2006 8:36 AM
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Posts: 141
| I use car bodywork repair filler, no cracks, sets rock hard in ten minutes and sands nice n smooth. |
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