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Posts: 2024
| If you could have the "ultimate" crankbait, how would it be built? What kind of hardware would you like it to come with? Flat, or round sides and why? What style lip (lexan or steel)? What length? What angle would the bill be (I guess, shallow or deep diver?)? With or without a squirrely tail?
Can you guess where I might go with this information?
Edited by esox50 2/4/2006 7:35 PM
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Posts: 1348
Location: Pewaukee, WI | I would have to say that a deep diving crank bait such as an Ernie would be the type of lure that I feel would fill that nitch. It's such an all round bait that you can adjust your retrieve accordingly if you're in shallow water or crank it down deep if you're fishing deeper water. It trolls well and my personal favotite is the older 6" model (lexon lip - no tail). It's musky tough yet appeals to other game fish as well. That's my two cents. |
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Posts: 93
| I will have to go with the Loke lures....perfect crank.....reason...it catches me fish whenever nothing else works...what else can I say......Contact John from Lokelures he will tell you his secret...or not....
Good luck! |
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Posts: 2024
| Not looking for specific bait names. I don't want this thread to be "what model is your favorite crankbait." Looking for specific DESIGN QUALITIES that you like in a bait (exclude the name). |
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Posts: 32957
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | I like a crank bait that dives as much as 5', or with the proper retrieve, less than 2'. Not a 'deep diver', but not a 'shallow diver' either. Lexan lip is fine, and the bait needs to JUST float, so I get a slow rise on the pause. The lip needs to be designed and the bait balanced so it 'kicks out' when I twitch it hard. Six to 71/2 inches. |
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Posts: 686
Location: Tomahawk, Wisconsin | My perfect crank runs less than 10 feet, has a slow rise, can be worked fast without rolling, 6-10 inches depending, major vibration, either straight or jointed, I have broken off enough lips but still would go with a lexan over a metal lip. I own a ton of crankbaits but the old reliables fall into these categories. |
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Posts: 723
| I would say that:
Flat sides, with a wide body, something around an inch.
Tight wiggle even on a slow retrieve.
Has to stay level on the pause, better for t-boning.
indestructable lip cause Im going to punish it on some foreign objects.
almost neutrally buoyant, almost.
Definitely plastic for no tooth penetration, wood takes too much abuse.
Don't know about the squirrely tail, don't really have a preference.
Very low frequency rattle, nothing that the other guy in the boat can hear when he's 10ft away.
7inches
If you make it, I'll buy it.
Edited by dogboy 2/4/2006 9:28 PM
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| it would work from the top to bottom . zero to 80 feet . them ,the big ones would be gone. no big fish.that would be a shame.so ill keep hunting. same old cranks.an the sane old,a fish.like me.he ,she still swiming. |
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Posts: 65
Location: Springfield, IL and Vermilion Bay, ON | I would want a bait with removable weighting...make it float, suspend, or sink, depending on conditions.
I would want it in both straight and jointed models. The straight would have an optional trailer plastic w/ hook.
The jointed would have an exaggerated wobble. Minimum 6" length, up to 12".
I would want the nose of the bait to have two eyes. One for shallow running, one for deep diving. No plastic bill.
This bait will be irrestible on my line, so it would have to be through wire construction.
The body shape would be slightly oval, with the vertical being the longer measurement.
Colors optional. It needs to be made of wood, not plastic.
I'm certain that I have left items out of this post. What say you? |
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Posts: 1137
Location: Holly, MI | I want it to twitch, crank, and troll. If it can't hold up to 5 mph without blowing out I can't use it. Plastic does hold up better than wood and is better for no-tooth-sink but I do feel that the wood lures are for some unknown reason more attractive to the ski's. I agree on a very slow riser (floating) if possible. I love the super natural looking baits but I have a hunch that they catch the fisherman. I buy 'em anyway  . A lazily cranked jointed crank sure has a nice body flex, I guess the straights with plastic off the back work about the same however. I know you said no names but the Shal..w Inv..er is right up there for an all around crank for me. Some of the newer jerk/glide baits will swim pretty cool on a retrieve, especially with a few pops of the rod. |
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | I like the ones that have one heck of a wobble to them. I got a couple that vibrate and wobble so good.....i can almost feel it in my soul!
Mike |
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| I like a crankbait that has a option for twitching that can blow out sideways(not rolled) when twitched hard. I like wood lures but plastic would be more durable. Something with straight sides because they seem to blow out better. But corrects itself upright, quickly. Metal Lip for fine tuning. Shallow runner. Not too fast of a rise(because if one misses it I would like it to stay in that water column without it floating to the surface immediatley). Tails are cool. Body would be no longer than 9" |
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| I would like a 9inch style old grandma with a metal lip similar to a cisco kid so I could adjust for more wobble or less...ben |
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Posts: 4266
| Shad profile, shallow runner (less than six feet), fast vibration, tight wiggle, square lip, wood, buoyant- so it can back up off of weeds etc. 6"-8".
Beav |
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Posts: 79
Location: michigan | I've been building my own cranks for a year or so. I guess you can say im still new to it. I've come up with a 8" crankbait that I think is awesome. It has a great move with a wild kick when twitched, dives around 5 ft. and rises to the top when stopped. I weighted it with 1 oz. of lead, and cut the lip slot at 45 degrees. I've always used lexan in the square still lip. Also the wood I chose to use for these is Western red Cedar in 1/2" thickness which you can get at Home Depot. Not sure If you want to see some, but heres a picture.
Jim
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Posts: 137
| I would like a fat, round crankbait that dives anywhere from less than 1 foot to 10 feet depending on the bill and that moves a ton of water. A supercharged supersized bass crankbait if you will. Have yet to see one, but I can feel the action now if I imagine it. Thump, thump, thump, thump....WABAAMMM! Game over. |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | Give me a 8" & 10" model with flat sides, and dives 8'-15' (at least)on the crank. I want the flat sides because it really draws the fish in. It should be a slow riser, so close (but not) neutrally buoyant. Wood or plastic it doesn't matter. The lure should be thru wire if wood so that the lip can't pull off. Lip doesn't matter as far as material. The lip would need a double line tie to achieve the depths I want. On the deep setting, or both settings for that matter the lure should be easy to crank, and twitch (kick out) with ease. I want an in betweener wobble. Not tight, and not really exaggerated. Two hook set-up on the 8", and three hook set-up on the 10". No squirelly tail! Offer it in a bunch of cisco and perch patterns. Hot cisco, natural cisco, purple cisco, hot perch, natural perch, brown perch, etc...
Now that I think about it, give me a round style bait also. Sometimes they want the round over the flat. All the qualities as above. Make it like a Bagley DB08 (body style), but 10-12" long! Make it fatter all around, and it must work like the DB08. |
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Posts: 1188
Location: Iowa | A long perch shaped body that is 12" long (14" w/lip), has two hook eye attachments, is made of polywood and will give any other crankbait out there a run for the money...it doesn't blow out at speeds up to 5 mph and comes in a variety of colors...one of which I own...the smaller version 8" body (10 w/lip) I have heard nothing but good things about...that is next in line to get if not another larger version...figure that one out...
Big Perc |
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Posts: 145
Location: Eau Claire, WI | My ultimate crankbait would have the profile and shape of an 8 or 9 inch Slammer, built of solid plastic for durability, lip of heavy lexan ar metal (again for durability), would dive to 5' on a straight retrive, mustad 3/0 round bend trebels (I have lots of faith in these hooks), painted Hot Perch (perch with an orange belly), be just slightly bouyant for a slow dead rise and absolutely has to have that distinct Crane Bait throb to it. Build me one of these and it's all I need in October and November. |
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Posts: 485
Location: On my favorite lake! | My ultimate crank would be a rounded crank in both shallow and deep models. I'd want it to suspend! I would want it in many colors. Hopefully in 3 sizes around 6, 9 ,12inches would be nice. I probably would prefer plastic over wood. Thick lexan lip. Threw wire construction! Thats about it. |
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Posts: 1536
Location: God's Country......USA..... Western Wisconsin | I would like to try one that has a nice wobble to it but nothing that shakes you to pieces. 5' to 10' is deep enough for me. No rattle needed as the hooks make plenty of racket. It should hang nicely when stopped with head just sinking down as to make the bait look like it is going to move downward. The head going down is just a carryover from my Bass fishing as the baits that suspend with the head dropping just a bit seem to draw many more strikes. I would love to have a Muskie crank that does this. I may have to weight something I have and try it out. What the heck do I know I throw mostly jigs anyway. |
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