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Posts: 392
Location: KY |
I have three spots on my boat that I would like to repair this winter. Each is a little different. The first is a scratch in the gel coat. The second is a chip through the gel coat into the metal flake a little smaller than a dime. The third is a gouge in the Keel about two inches long. I would like to repair each, myself if possible. I am wondering where to start. How can I fix each spot? What specific products should I use, and where can I get them?
Thanks,
Bruce
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 scratch.JPG (53KB - 416 downloads)
chip.JPG (71KB - 643 downloads)
bow.JPG (26KB - 868 downloads)
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Posts: 202
Location: Angola, IN | Bruce,
I've got some experience repairing fiberglass and gelcoats.
The first problem can be fixed by simply buffing out the scratch. Get some heavy or medium buffing compound AND some light buffing compound. Use the heavy stuff with a cloth rag and rub and rub and rub the area (along the direction of the scratch) until the groove is blended in. Then use the light compound to help polish the area up. Then use a marine polish and polish the area very well and then wax it. It's not hard. Just take your time and use some elbow grease.
The second spot, is a little harder. Use the heavy buffing compound to smooth out the rough edges of the dime chip. You can try to find some matching red sparkle paint and simply add color where is none (like with some automotive metalic red paint...try to match as well as you can. Then use light buffing compound over the entire area, polish, then wax it.
The hull gouge, you'll need to simply sand the area smooth, try to match the paint (impossible) and paint the area. Polish and wax.
I like 3M rubbing compounds and polishing agents. www.westmarine.com Use a good boat wax. West Marine will also carry the polyester-compatible paint you'll need to touch up your hull.
Who makes your boat?? If you get the actual name of the tints that your manufacturer used, West Marine can help you find the best match.
The store in Indianapolis is very helpful.
If you need more info or would like to talk it over, email: [email protected] or call me 419 272 2528
Edited by SteveHulbert 12/21/2005 10:07 PM
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Posts: 392
Location: KY | Thanks for the advice.
It’s a Ranger. I will see if I can get some metal flake from them or maybe at the craft store.
Shouldn’t I put some epoxy over each of the gouges to keep water out of the glass before I paint?
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | BruceKY- Yes you need to get the glass resealed. Water infiltrating behind/between the fiberglass and the gelcoat can cause nasty bubbles that cause additional problems and greatly reduce the cosmetic value of your boat.
The keel gouge is of particular concern as it needs to be repaired properly. Simple paint touch up will not work long term for this one. The good news is that most folks like us can do the repair ourselves with the right tools and planning. Most automotive supply store have fiberglass repair kits- (forget using one with woven fiberglass cloth), you need to use one with fiberglass mat. You can hardly go wrong with 3M products.
Talk to your Ranger dealer- they usually have or can get you touch up paint to match your boat- the red sparkle is hardest and the charcoal/grey is easiest. I have a Skeeter with similar colors.
First the gouge needs to be properly prepared for repair- just slapping some paint, fiberglass or gel into it will not produce a good strong repair. You will need a grinder with a a coarse and fine grinding wheel to make life easier. If you don't have one- rent one or borrow one from a buddy. An small orbital sander with a variety of disc's would work fine for this size job. You will get a better repair.
Don't forget a dust mask and wear a long sleeve shirt and rubber gloves when sanding or grinding fiberglass. (you should have at least 10 pairs of throwaway rubber gloves). What you need to do is feather/taper out the edges and clean the gouge, typically you want to taper it out ~ 2" from the edges of the gouge. On the keel gouge this is probably going to wrap the repair around to the otherside of the keel. But it's necessary for a strong repair.
Now- the area is ready to be repaired. I typically use a large piece of cardboard as a working pallette, i.e., something to place the matt on to get it saturated with the gel before applying it to the repair area.
From the looks of the size of the gouge you'll probably need the following.
a couple of 1" paint brushes to apply gel to the repair area before placing the mat and to help smoth the gel after the mat is in place.
1" putty knife to work the gel into the mat on the palette and help work the mat into place in the repair area.
The first step is to figure out how much mat is needed, i.e, how many layers depending on the depth of the gouge and the thickness of the mat material. Just looking at the photo's I would guess 1/8" to 1/4 inch deep.
Take a marker and draw the general original shape of the gouge on the mat ~ 3' in from the edge of the mat - for each piece of mat of mat you need. Then draw another line 2" all the way around the gouge shape, this is your mat tear line. (remember you tapered the gouge out 2")
Taking your hands (no scissors) tear the piece out of the mat - by pulling the mat apart horizontally. Don't tear it as you would a piece of paper. You want to tear away the outside line, this will automatically give you a tapered piece of mat to fit the repair area. Don't worry mat is relatively cheap and it important to get a good fit.
Now- the fun part. Make sure you have ventilation when working with or mixing the fiberglass gel. (If the kit is two part- hardner + gel) you need to be very carfully to follow the mixing directions. To much hardner it sets up to quick and to little it may never set up. There are some products that don't require mixing. I haven't used them so I can't vouch for them, they may not be a strong as the two part stuff when set.
layout your materials and tools- you will need to work quickly/efficiently once the gel & hardner are mixed.
You will need a disposable mixing container - automotive stores usually have ones with graduation's/measurements on them, that way you know how much gel you have and how much hardner to add. You need to thorougly mix the gel & hardner. Now time is of the esscense as you probably have only 10 minutes before it starts to set. ((wear rubber gloves))
Take the paint brush and apply some gel to the repair area, be sure to "wet" the entire repair area. Now using the card board palette and the putty knife, put some of the gel on the palette, lay the mat on top, add more gel to the mat, using the putty knife make sure the mat is satuarted with gel. Using the putty knife lift the mat off the palette and apply it to the repair area. Using your fingers and the putty knife to get into position.
Don't worry if it's not perfect, that's the beauty of glass, it can be worked in layers, i.e., just like they layed up your boat. Given this is on the keel, the gel itself may run a bit until it starts to set, just keep spreading it back into the repair area until it starts to set.
If you're worried about getting it right the first time do a couple of test runs on a piece of card board to get the hang of the whole process and also get a feel for how the gel sets.
Let set hard, then grind & sand/shape to get a reasonably smooth repair. If you think it needs more mat- repeat the process. Actually you want it very slightly concave/slightly lower than the surrounding surface, for the last application of gel, i.e., the gel coat.
Last mix another small batch of gel and using the brush paint it onto the repair area. Let it set hard, sand smooth, repeat as necessary to get a flush repair, then prime/paint accordingly.
Merry Christmas
Al
Edited by ESOX Maniac 12/22/2005 9:19 AM
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Posts: 392
Location: KY | Thanks ESOX Maniac
Great tutorial!
Just what I needed to give me the confidence to do it myself.
Bruce
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Posts: 32951
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Whoa, great advice on FRP repair, but the keel doesn't have any glass damage on it. I would acquire the gel coats from Ranger ( hazardous materials, so it will cost a bundle to ship. Get the clear, polyflake, and keel color shipped at one time). The keel first: sand the area around the gel damage, and clean the area with Acetone. Make sure the area is dry. Take a piece of packing tape wider than the damage and longer than the damage, and stick one end to the outer edge of the undamaged area. Dab enough mixed ( add catalyst per Ranger's instructions) gel coat to the area to fill it and quickly smooth the packing tape over the damaged area, creating a 'bubble' of gel over the bad spot as close to original form as possible. Let it kick, pull off the tape, and wet sand it with a 600 grit until it's even. Buff the area with a rotary buffer and polishing compound, and it's new.
The scratch should be wet sanded IF YOU CAN'T GET IT BUFFED OUT BY HAND JUST in the scratched area very lightly taking great care not to get into the ployflake. Mix enough clear gel coat to spray the area, and use a CO2 spray assembly or the like. You also can use a very small fine artist's brush and make sure there is a slightly raised area over the scratch. Wet sand the clear down to a match, buff with polishing compound, and it's fixed.
The chip will require mixing red flake with clear gel that is catalyzed, and setting a base repair with the red mix. Put enough in to establish a background color for the final thin layer of clear taking care to stay within the chip and let that kick. The do the same type of tape repair I described for the keel with clear, wet sand and buff. That one won't be perfect, it takes quite an artist to repair polyflake perfectly.
My 2 cents..
I've done a fair amount of this sort of repair in the field, but am not what one would call expert at it. Still, the results I got were more than OK.  |
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Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Steve- My recommendations were based on the location of the gouge and the fact that it appears that some glass has been damaged. I didn't think a quick fix will hold on the keel edge side. I like the tape idea- I use wax paper. I used to fix race car panels, wings etc (back in late sixties) and before my divorce I also had a 64 Vette Roadster w/ race built 327 engine & beefed up two speed (Powerglide). #*^@, even after 15 years, I still miss that car + 100mph low gear...
Merry Christmas
Al |
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| If you sand into the Polyflake and it appears shiny take some Muratic acid and wipe the area. It will take the silvery shine off. Then wash with water. This will nuetralize the muratic acid. Then finish the repair with clear gel and wet sand as stated and buff. |
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| Don't forget a product called akemi #6. Great putty that kicks with Bpo paste hardner. If the gouge is not to deep this product will hold well and not shrink very much . We use it to repair mold and it hold in with all the abuse. |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | I did some gel coat repairs with my buddy's kit yesterday. It seemed to go real good and I can't thank you all enough for the help so far. Today, the gel repair had dried just fine on the small scratches. The areas that had small divots were still a bit tacky. Directions say to next hit it with acetone then clean up with a wet sanding. Will the acetone take out the rest of the tackiness?
I think most of the dings, which were on the bottom of the boat, were from road rock and not underwater hazards. Had a couple good rock scrapes, but not too bad overall.
Thanks again, m |
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| Take some paste wax and put over the gel. Gel-coat will not cure from air inhibition and needs to be sealed from the air if you want it to dry tack free.
Acetone will make it gummy.
Next time you do the repair try Duretec High gloss clear. It will dry tack free. My company only sells it by the gallon and its not cheap stuff.
The cheapest option is to put wax paper over the repair.
Another option is 1% by weight wax /styrene solution added to the gel if not a clear.
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Paste wax is next. Actually, the acetone treatment went well, it removed the paste that was outside of the nicks and scratches.
Kinda weird being out in my boat garage washing and rinsing the beast on Superbowl Sunday in the snow. thanks so much, m |
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Posts: 392
Location: KY | Lets see some pictures Mikie. Before and after if you have them. I have not started my repairs yet. I got side tracked on some other projects.
SYOTW |
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Location: Athens, Ohio | Sent you a PM. Glad to help any way I can. No pics, though. m |
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