Muskie Discussion Forums

Forums | Calendars | Albums | Quotes | Language | Blogs Search | Statistics | User Listing
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )
Moderators: Slamr

View previous thread :: View next thread
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page]

Muskie Fishing -> Muskie Boats and Motors -> Boat Rail instalation
 
Reply New post
Message Subject: Boat Rail instalation
tuffy1
Posted 6/6/2005 10:38 AM (#149778)
Subject: Boat Rail instalation





Posts: 3242


Location: Racine, Wi
I just got my Ranger Rails from Cabelas this weekend, and it comes with the screws for mounting. My question is, if you use the stainless self tapping screws, are those going to be strong enough to hold the rails, or better yet the rods when you get a rip trolling?

I have a 1750 Fish Hawk, and it is tough to get into the gunnals to use nuts and bolts. Any advise, or comments?
Thanks!
Muskie Treats
Posted 6/6/2005 11:31 AM (#149786 - in reply to #149778)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation





Posts: 2384


Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot
It all depends on how thick the aluminum is. I'd feel better with a nut/bolt combo with a dot of loctite (or equivilant). If you do use the tapping screws, just make sure you drill a pilot hole 1/2 the size of what you would for fiberglass. I'd also recommend that you use some marine grade silicon both on the screw threads and on the underside of the rail mounting area. That 1-2 punch should hold them fine. I know that's how I installed mine and they seem very strong. I can shake the boat on the trailer with that setup.
guest
Posted 6/6/2005 9:58 PM (#149871 - in reply to #149786)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation


I would cut a plate of steel for backing on the underside with nuts.
tuffy1
Posted 6/7/2005 7:25 AM (#149893 - in reply to #149871)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation





Posts: 3242


Location: Racine, Wi
I would love to put a plate on for backing, but I can't get into part of the sides. There are small openings by the cleats, but not the whole length of the boat. That's where I run into a problem. The metal is actually pretty thick though. I know the back half I can bolt on, as I am taking the back cleats off, and can put nuts and bolts back there.

Also, the driver side, I can access the bottom of the rail as well, so I can bolt them on there, it's just the other side that I don't have alot of access to.

Thanks for the info so far, any other ideas?
setme31
Posted 6/7/2005 8:24 AM (#149901 - in reply to #149778)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation





Posts: 516


Location: Kildeer, IL
If you can put nuts and bolts everywhere but one spot, just put a toggle bolt in that one spot. It will be plenty to hold it down. The only problem is your bolt heads probably won't match.

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/40940/icn/20-191692/midwe...
Shep
Posted 6/8/2005 12:46 PM (#150066 - in reply to #149901)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation





Posts: 5874


I think you'll be fine with the supplied hardware. That's some pretty substantial aluminum on those caps. Just predrill to the correct size, and use some Blue LockTite. Red is too hard.
ski86
Posted 6/12/2005 9:50 PM (#150441 - in reply to #149778)
Subject: RE: Boat Rail instalation


Bolt everything-screws will losen over time. I put rails on with a metal backing by putting in an access plate. good luck
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page]
Reply New post
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

(Delete all cookies set by this site)