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Posts: 724
Location: Southern W.Va. | Has anyone had problems with this lure. Got 1 and it has NO action at all, comes thru the water like a dish rag. I've tried solf taps , hard pulls and slack line jerks but still no action. How does everyone else work this bait to get any action?
Mauser |
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| I have his brother  |
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Posts: 2427
Location: Ft. Wayne Indiana | I have thrown tons and tons of squirkos over the past few years. Sure some run better than others, but all work when properly worked.
To get these lures to come alive, I have found that a soft tip rod, either 7'6 or 8 footer.
You need to keep slack line, and snap the lure down. She will dance.
Try a longer rod, keep slack in your line, and make sure you are pointing you rod tip at the lure, and not pulling it to the side. Taps straight down, not pulls.
I have yet to find one that doesn't work. If you have any problems you can always send them to me to try out!!!! |
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Posts: 724
Location: Southern W.Va. | Mike,
Talked to Tom and I guess betewwn the 2 of you , someone will be able to figure it out. Will be arriving in Ind. on Friday about 2PM.
Guess we're fishing Webster on Friday for some carp, heard that 's all thats left .
Mauser |
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Posts: 141
| I have the same problem with a Slammer Drop Belly Glider, comes through water in a straight line no matter what I do. |
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Posts: 2024
| DaveG and Mauser,
If worst comes to worst, I'd be glad to take them off your hands...
DaveG,
Try working your Slammer slower and like a Phantom. Soft downward taps get it moving, then harder snaps really get the belly roll going. What rod are you using? I'm using a 7'6" MH and even with a fluorocarbon leader it still works. Best of luck! They're great baits. Hang in there. |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | There's a mod you can do that will make those baits work much better IMOP.
1. Take the hooks off the bait
2. Drill a 1/4" hole 3/4" back from the front hook hanger. Drill it 3/4 of the way through the bait.
3. Fill with lead.
You will find that the bait will swing much better and it will also fish deeper. |
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Posts: 1046
| Just turn the tail the opposite way its facing and reglue. Run a #7 splitring in the nose and that bait has to have slack in there to preform good. I have a bunch and everyone works great! |
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Posts: 141
| Thanks for the tips Esox50 Im using a 7 ft medium heavy rod and 90lb multistrand leader, I will try your suggestions, I usually dont have a problem with this type of bait and thought that maybe I had a bummer, Dave.
Edited by DaveG 5/14/2005 1:53 PM
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Posts: 1185
Location: Wishin I Was Fishin' | A 7' 6" St. Croix is my best for this bait.
I've noticed that I have to start working the bait as soon as it hits the water. If it sinks at all, it doesn't do the nice side to side glide and pause I'm looking for.
Quickly becoming a goto bait for me. |
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Posts: 32935
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Jomusky brings a good point. I start the bait, NO MATTER WHAT BAIT, before it hits the water, and work it from the second it's wet until it's back in the rig. All good muskie anglers are left handed, the rest wish they were!!!  |
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| Hi
Most squirkos will run out of the box for some F.U. reason some will glide better than others.
try these tips
1 like posted above soft rod tips help a ton. the tip will give a little when you hit the lure. I use a 6'9 med heavy
2 I always add a split ring to the front of all my jerkbaits
3 slack line is a must, always keep the line slack. just tap or hit it when you want it to glide. dont pull..
4 As the bait gets closer to the boat the worse the glide will be you will need to change the way you hit or tap the lure when it gets close to the boat.
5:The squirko will change directions but it wont glide out 4' it will go about 1-2'
Like beave posted adding weight can help if you want to work faster and deeper. I was desighned to be worked high and slow. these mods will give you a new lure. You can also use wood weight systems.
the Lure is solid plastic and will not take on water even if you drill ino it and add weight.
.Weighting pionts.
1: 1/4oz behind the front hanger
2: remove the tail ad 1/4oz in the back
If none of this works or you dont want to tinker send it back. I will replace it with a hand tested one.
Also thanks for taking the time to learn insted of "this lure sucks" very cool!!
Thanks.
Keith
LLUNGEN LURES
3025 Malmo Road
Arlington Heights IL 60005
847-302-7558
[email protected]
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| One other thing I would suggest.
Don't use a leader with a swivel, tie the line directly to the leader and make sure the leader is at least as long as the lure.
I use 105# stright wire leaders and tie them directly to the line for my squirko's. You can also use bell sinker weights and attach them to the front hook split rink (1/8 to 1/4oz work best), also try replacing the back hook with a 5O hook. The thing I like about the squirko is that they don't have a methodical side to side glide. They kick out, up, down, roll, they can be worked very eratic, which trigger more strikes then the follows you get with a methodical side to side glide.
Jim Stella |
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Posts: 724
Location: Southern W.Va. | Thanks Keith,
That's the best offer I've had since the better half said "I Do".
Will call you soon if I can't get this thing to work.
Mauser |
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| My two new custom Squirkos worked great as is, and the above mentioned moods will help if you are still not getting the action you desire. |
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| Had the same problem, talked to Lee Tauchen and he told me to cut the tail section and reattach it to the back with superglue. Also, make sure the tail is vertical when you glue it back on. Totally changed the action on mine and had no need to change rods. BG |
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