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Posts: 743
| i'm talking to my boat salesman...he suggests i get a Stainless Steel prop for the motor. the motor is a 115 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. it's about a $400 upgrade to get the stainless steel prop.
I understand a Stainless Steel prop wont flex/bend at high torge..but does a 115 have enough torgue to bend/flex an aluminum prop? besides the prop flexing at high RPM's..what else is the advantage of a SS prop over ALum? (will it "last" longer if hit the sand, or a rock or stump?)
thanks
tomcat |
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Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | Tomcat, I'll do my best to answer this and then will get it over to the "Boats/Motors" page.
Stainless = a slight performance advatage. For your boat maybe 2-3 mph when the prop is in new condition.
Stainless is a harder alloy than aluminum. That being said.. yes when you hit something the prop is less likely to bend... However something must take shock and that is usually the prop shaft...
For your application I would stay with the aluminum prop and spend and extra $100 on a extra aluminum prop and prop nut/lock washer. That way you have a spare should you need it, and you have $300 left over in your pocket.
Regarding your horse power question. Any motor over about 50 hp will realize some performance increase from stainless. The question is... is 2mph really worth the extra money spent and the chance you take if/when you hit something.
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Posts: 720
| Hi Tomcat,
I just went through the samething you are while my Yamaha is an 80. I looked very hard at the S.S. props the performance issues such as your hole shot , biting in the turns and the durablity all exceed an aluminum prop. The only problem for me was 1, the size of my motor I felt was to small, 2. the type of water I fish 95% Canadian shield lake the danger in having to replace the lower unit or prop shaft from hitting rocks, and finally the cost of a stainless prop is $400.00 vs. aluminum prop which will run about $125.00. I ended up going with an aluminum prop from Turning Point propellers.
Thanks
Dave |
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Posts: 743
| YOU ROCK MARK!!! for real dude.. you have million fold of good info. and i apprecaite it. next time i'm driving thru WI, i'll email you about guide dates! thanks for the straight up info and ideas. that's really cool of you.
anyone else want to offer some advise? i would 100% apprecaite it. thanks again Mark.
tomcat |
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Posts: 743
| Dave..SWEET MAN!!! sweet. it's good to hear it from someone who just did the same thing...pretty much the same situation. hell, i dont even run my boat wide open anyways..i'm kind of "easy does it" anyways. i dont care about my hole shot performance (just ask the wife!!). it's good to hear some good quality info like this..i dont care who you are..$400 is alot of $.
Hunter4..can you shoot me an email?
[email protected]
thanks
tomcat |
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Posts: 34
| Tomcat,
I just upgraded to a stainless on our boat (17 Pro Sport with 115 Yamaha). We had big problems not being able to lift the bow adiquately and therefore suffered in speed, efficiency, and overall performance.
I went from a 21P stock Al to a 19P Michigan Wheel Ballistic SS and the difference was mind blowing. I went from 5200 RPMs to 5500 (motor max). The speed went from 40mph to 47mph (GPS speeds). The water spray used to come off the boat at or infront of the windshield, it now exits way back in the rear (drier ride) with the ability to lift the bow. The bite of the prop eliminated nearly all blowout in the corners. Hole shot is improved for pulling tubes/wakeboards/skiers. And the best part of it all is that I got the prop for $170 off of the sale board on this very site.
In the end, I WOULD suggest you upgrade your prop to SS but I WOULDN'T upgrade your prop from the dealer for two reasons:
1) you can find a used SS prop or aftermarket SS prop for much less than $400.
2) if you upgrade to SS after your purchase you will then have the Al prop as a backup which is always needed no mater what type of prop you run.
As for the comment about the drive shaft taking the brunt of the abuse, I would say this: The SS prop is bound to the hub by a rubber bushing which would absorb any forces from hitting obsticles. SS is highly resistant to chips, dings, dents, scratchin, etc. so in the long run the cost difference will be made up in the number of times you bring your Al into the prop shop for repairs.
Just my 2 cents.
Ryan
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Posts: 743
| TIGHT RYAN!!!!
eagle tail..thanks a TON buddy. that is way cool.
so..keep my eye open for good deal or after market SS prop and keep alum as spare!!!!!!!
everyone's ideas are welcomed and apprecaited. thanks for educating me. everyone, thanks
tomcat
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Posts: 1335
Location: Chicago, Beverly | Granted my boat only has a hopped up 40hp on it.. But I have three props for it, 2 al props, and a ss prop. For IN the SS prop isn't bad unless you hit brookville. For many of the lakes up north with their rock bars the AL is definitely the way to go. My 40 has enough torque to flex the al blades, I am sure a 115 will also. I like Mark's idea of getting the two AL props so you always have a spare, thus how I ended up with my two. It also does not hurt to perhaps get them different pitches as one may run better then the other... Unless the dealer absolutely hooked you up with correct pitch, then get two of the same. Defintely look around for deals on props, one of my al's and the ss were gotten at drastically reduced prices over what they should have cost.. See if the dealer would lend you out two props to try so you can figure correct pitch to use..Not sure if any dealers would do it, but that is the only way I know to be sure of getting correct pitch. |
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Location: Minneapolis, MN | There are dozens of used props in many sizes on www.wmi.org/bassfish and www.bassboatcentral.com If you get one of these and its not the right one for you, you can probably sell it for what you bought it for and get another. |
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Posts: 743
| thank Mollett. mucho apprecio..
m1 users have TON of knowledge.very helpful.
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Posts: 1096
Location: Hayward, WI | If going with aluminum get something besides the actual Yamaha prop. They will not give you very good performance. I would look at getting either a Mercury prop or an aftermarket(michigan, hustler..) that has more cup and a better design. This will help you lift your bow better and get all around better performance. For my money the Hustler is the way to go.
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Posts: 1287
Location: Stevens Point, Wi. | From someone who could hit a rock in a bathtub, stay with an aluminum wheel, if---you are satisfied with the performance. Be sure and run with full load to determine your needs. I've managed to destroy over a dozen props over the years, and the only motor I damaged was when i was using a stainless prop. In addition to an aluminum props cheaper initial cost, the cost of repair is also less, but , if you can't find one that gives you adequate performance, you will be better off with stainless. Hopefully your dealer will let you try a few props before buying to see which one best suits your needs. |
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Posts: 743
| that's really awesome advise. thanks a ton. this all really helps.
tomcat |
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