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Posts: 41
Location: Rochester, MN | I'm thinking about getting a custom rod or two made by Thorne Bros and would like to hear some of your opinions on a few of the rod options. What handle material do you prefer (Syncork vs Cork)? Butt cap options (straight, small flair, large flair)? Rear grip length (14-20")? I know i can call the shop and learn more but i thought i would listen to your comments first. Is there anything else that i should consider? |
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Posts: 353
Location: Western U.P. | Any rod that you get should be comfortable to hold and fish with for long periods of time, so get what fits you, and is what you like. A lot of people will say that you need this or that, and it may or may not be true/best for them, but whatever works for YOU is best for you. I look at 3 things first when fitting a rod to someone, after you've discussed the what and how specifics. The reel seat, the rear grip length, and the overall length of the rod. Your first point of contact with the rod is the reel seat, and it should feel good in your hand with the reel you are going to use. The next 2 are tied together. When test fitting the reel seat on the blank, I put it where it balances the rod, and adjust from there. Ideally, the rod should balance in your hand with the reel on it, and not be tip heavy, or butt heavy. A balanced rod allows you to be able to fish longer with less fatigue, as you don't have to fight the weight of the tip while doing everything else. The rear grip length needs to be manageable, and not hang up on you, clothes, coat, etc when moving it around. For butt caps, I like both the straight (rounded end), and a slight flair. For heavier rods, I personally prefer a slight flair butt, so I know when my hand is at the end of the rod without having to look. When choosing grip materials, if at all possible, get them in your hand, and see what you like. I used to prefer strictly cork for my personal rods, but preferences change, and primarily use EVA now along with some Winn grips. EVA is more comfortable, and less slippery when wet than cork... for me. Winn grips are pretty comfortable also, and started experimenting with them a few years ago when they came out. Have done several customer builds with them, and so far, so good. I also have them on a few personal rods for different species. Syncork is durable, but in my opinion, not very comfortable to fish with. Again, that's just my take on it. Getting to the MN Musky show and/or to Thorne's for a hands on to check out the different materials, lengths, etc would be a good thing to do if you can. Keep an open mind when looking at your different options. The next step is guide choice. There really is a difference in performance between a good quality guide vs an average one. Go with a good quality, name brand that you can afford, and you should be good to go. Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. |
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Posts: 57
Location: Zimmerman | Have about a dz thorne rods of all make ups and here is what i have come up with as preferences. Go at least 9’ total rod length on buck rod, 7’9” on jerk. 5” cone or 5.5” half Wells front in syncork, gives good grip even when wet. 16” full rear in natural cork, cork dosent seem to catch on clothes as much and won’t rub inner arm. I like the feel under my arm of a full rear over split. Cap doesn’t really matter to me. Get a hook keeper. I don’t have any but the new triggers with screw in handles are something to consider. Get an extra tip. They seem to break at inconvenient times and it makes sure you have correct size on hand. |
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Posts: 1716
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | I have had 2 customs built from Thorne’s. I didn’t like the Syncork being rough so I bought another with same power and length and sold the one I had with Syncork. I wore through a shirt in 3 days of fishing with the Syncork. It is grippy, but it is very rough. I sanded mine down quite a bit to smooth it, but I couldn’t bring myself to like it. I have 9’8” xh with an 18” rear grip and std 5” fore grip. I prefer the palming seat so I went that route. This rod throws pounders, 10’s and 12’s, big cranks very well. Call Lonnie and he will help you get what you want. I’ve ordered so many rods from him over the years that he knows me in a first name basis. |
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Posts: 72
| I bought a 9'8" XH with full cork and 20" handle with a small flair. The only issue was that the handle kept getting caught in my sleeve/coat during the 8, so I reduced it to 18" and haven't had any problems since. I'm 5'10", so you might want to adjust the handle length if you're shorter or taller than I am.
Also if you're thinking of using a jig ripper, you may want to ask which foregrips work best.
It's an awesome rod. |
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Posts: 393
| I mostly fish Northern Wi & Mn especially in the Fall. On my 3 rods less than 9ft I really like syncork on foregrip AND handle for colder wet weather. On my rods longer than 9ft I like syncork on the foregrip and cork on the handle. It is easier on my ribs and clothing. At some visit Thornes ... they are great to work with. |
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Posts: 752
| I own a baker's dozen custom TB musky Rods if you include the trolling rods. After changing things up on my first few rods I landed on Syn Cork up front and natural cork in the back as my personal preference. All of my casting rods are split grip which is just my personal preference. The Half Well's up front is also my personal preference except on Jerk Bait Rods. The "Lonnie Grip" is a screwing front fore grip that works in conjunction with the reel seat; it is fly weight and strong. My newest rubber and blades rods all have 18 inch rears with a moderate flair in the back. As mentioned early call (if stopping in is not an option) and talk to them and they will steer you in the right direction. If you have any questions feel free to PM me... |
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Posts: 457
| What are these cstom rods running you guys on average? I'm sure there are a lot of variables to consider, just wondering as I've only bought off the rack so to speak. |
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