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| Message Subject: hookset practice questions | |||
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| I am new and read about hook sets. I have recently started to practice. I stand at the top of the stairs and set the hooks into a 10lb weight tied to the line. I am using 80lb spectron and a 6.9 st. croix. Does this setup sound good. I can move the weight about 2.5 steps. should I be bending in the needs and letting out a bit of grunt or a sweeping motion. I tend to get best results when I end up on my toes with a bit of jump. Looking for advice, as I may try "meat" next fall. Also wood vs. plastic lures....I cannot wait....thanks ahead of time ..steve | |||
| NUT |
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| As long as you have sharp hooks, snap the rod instead of a power pull, and keep reeling after the set to keep pressure on the the fish, you shouldnt have too many problems. If you look at trolling, when a fish hits there is no set or sudden jolt to set the hooks. Its steady pressure that makes the hooks penetrate. I've seen a demonstration done by a couple on individuals that they take the bait in there hand and let someone set the hook like they would on a fish. While there hand is closed on the lure and person sets the hooks and the bait doesnt budge. So if a fish is clamped down on the bait its going to have the smae effects...your arent going to get any hooks into the fish. Now do the same demonstration (dont actaully do it, common sense will tell you not too, but you never know aobut somepople these days) but instead of setting, snap the rod and keep in reeling, you'd be going to the ER to get hooks out of your hand. So when the fish unclamps from the bait theres steady pressure to keep the hooks the hooks stuck so theres no slack line. | |||
| lobi |
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Posts: 1137 Location: Holly, MI | I like the idea of the "grunt" when you set the hook. I never heard of practicing with weights but then I have had the boys in the back yard with a lure without hooks. The neighbors must think I'm nuts, fighting an 8 yr old on the end of a fishing rod. Make sure your hooks are all hand filed, don't rely on the factory to give you sharp enough hooks (they NEVER are). Edited by lobi 11/2/2003 6:45 PM | ||
| Ranger |
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Posts: 3926 | In the old days, when trolling for pike, sometimes they hit so hard from behind that the line would suddenly go slack, like it was cut off. We learned to really set the hook hard with a long-a$$ sweep to compensate for the slack line. Never happened with a muskie, but I mostly cast these days. | ||
| sworrall |
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Posts: 32958 Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Hookset has very little to do with strength and everything to do with technique. The rod blank is what transfers the energy down the line to the lure, so flexing that blank at the proper angle to reach maximum energy transfer is the ticket. Most casting rods are built to hold at the reel, just a bit off the pivot point. I make sure to use a rod balancer to offset that problem, balancing the rod rigged so it rests in the hand at the reel comfortably. Hooksets should be accomplished with the wrist, not bicep. The more you move your upper arms, the more the line moves with you. Shortest distance between two points is a straight line, so point the rod at the lure ALL the time, and you are ready. Practice hitting the with with a quick snap of the wrist and lower arm. Keep the rod at your body, don't reach out with it or the impact lessens. Your wrist flexes the best with your index finger pointing like an imaginary pistol, so cup the reel that way at the comfort point for you personally. An exact upward snap of the wrist, when refined, can flip over a metal kitchen chair 15' away without the legs touching the floor. If that doesn't bury steel, nothing will! | ||
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