|
|
Posts: 46
| About half way into my trip in Canada last week my depth finder would shut down when I started the motor, about every third time or so. Power is fed through an accessory switch. It would not restart unless I turned the accessory switch off and back on.
Helix 7
Any thoughts before I take it in? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 500
Location: Ludington, MI | Yeah, this seems to be a thing with HB depthfinders. Mine is when I kick on the nav lights. Switched them all to LEDs and I still get low enough to lose GPS, if not have a full lock-up. I'll be following to hear proposed solutions. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 716
| I'm having the same issue, just put a huge starting battery in and it was no help. Planning on running larger wiring to limit voltage drop and see if that works.
They must not have planned on these marine electronics being used in boats that have engines to start. What a joke IMO. I have Lowrances wired into the same system with no issues.
Edited by bturg 7/25/2019 10:19 PM
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 2318
Location: Chisholm, MN | Wire larger wire direct to the battery and make sure you have a quality starting battery. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 864
Location: NE Ohio | i have two H10's birds wired into the fuse block on main switch and start a merc 150 and a 9.9 pro kicker with them both on and never have ANY problems. used 10 ga. wires to power the birds and the motors were LUND factory pre-rigged. powered by a single 12 volt that came with the boat. 3 years old and 0 problems. i fish 6/7 days on average and charge the battery at the end of each day with an on-board charger, doesn't take long so i know the battery's not rundown.i use the livewell, radio, and nav lights on occasions also. |
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | Kirby Budrow - 7/26/2019 9:40 AM
larger wire direct to the battery and make sure you have a quality starting battery.
x2 and what Pat said above...
Yup, a dedicated HD fused wire run directly from the battery to your electronics, better yet would be to a on-off switch and fuse block at your dash.
It's fairly easy... would be happy to post some pictures and full explanation of how I did it myself if you're interested. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 32882
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Jerry Newman - 7/27/2019 9:53 AM
Kirby Budrow - 7/26/2019 9:40 AM
larger wire direct to the battery and make sure you have a quality starting battery.
x2 and what Pat said above...
Yup, a dedicated HD fused wire run directly from the battery to your electronics, better yet would be to a on-off switch and fuse block at your dash.
It's fairly easy... would be happy to post some pictures and full explanation of how I did it myself if you're interested.
This. Four 'Bird units on board with zero issues. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 46
| Thanks. Would like to see pics if you don’t mind. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 46
| I do have a dedicated switch at the dash. No problems with an older HB. The only variable is the Helix 7 |
|
| |
|
Posts: 36
Location: Honor, MI | My Lowrance LMS522 did exactly the same thing when I started the engine. Too old and lazy to rewire so I hooked it to my trolling motor battery Works perfect and draws little juice. Plug in my 3 bank charger after every trip, good to go. |
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | I settled on a 25 amp fuse between the battery and dash switch. I like the location and light-on feature of that particular switch, but it was a little bright at night so I just covered up most of the blue light with a piece of wire tape.
I used about 100’ of marine grade wire to hook up 4 graph locations, 3-D Lowrance module, stereo, two way radio, and 2 project Xs. The dash switch also eliminates the need to switch off the boats master switch, which is inconveniently located in a rear hatch. Having the ability to be 100% sure all the electronics are off but still being able to operate the motor trims and jack plate makes it that much easier at the end of a long day.
It took some time to wire this up, but I like the accessibility and knowing where everything is in case there's a problem. I really hate those pesky in-line fuses, and stacks of wires on the battery. The fuse block is expandable, and it also makes it easier to swap out future electronics.
I remember having to return the first fuse block I ordered because it didn't have a dedicated ground, which I thought was weird. I had to shop around to find one with a positive and negative like the one pictured so it's completely isolated to the designated accessory battery. Good Luck!
Edited by Jerry Newman 7/28/2019 3:12 PM
Attachments
----------------
 dash switch (1).jpg (50KB - 389 downloads)
fuse block (1).jpg (62KB - 388 downloads)
fuse block (2).jpg (43KB - 389 downloads)
fuse block (3).jpg (58KB - 400 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 716
| Running heavier wire did the trick. Still IMO poor engineering when every other brand can run off of the factory wiring with no issues. But now they stay on. |
|
| |
|
Location: 31 | bturg - 7/28/2019 9:04 PM
Running heavier wire did the trick. Still IMO poor engineering when every other brand can run off of the factory wiring with no issues. But now they stay on.
Glad to hear!
Agree that for what it would cost the manufacturers to put in a simple fuse block for the electronics every new boat should have one, or at the very least heavier gauge wire.
When I wired my previous boat for HDS 10s, it works great until I switched to 12s, then I started getting a brownout on one of the dash units. I ended up starting the big motor with the kicker still running to temporarily solve the issue mid-season… found out the dash switch was not able to handle the extra load.
|
|
| |
