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Posts: 1451
Location: Kronenwetter, WI | So I have this 3” drop from the garage to the driveway that my boat has to come down to get onto the driveway. I have tried making a cement ramp for the wheel to run down but the cement keeps breaking. I am wondering if anyone has some ideas on a better solution. I am using the cement that comes in a small bag from the nerds. It would be nice if I had a small plastic ramp or something like that but can’t think of anything? Any ideas?
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| https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoIk-ituFrg |
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Posts: 1719
| Have a concrete guy come over and cut out a bunch of old concrete and pour in new ramping up to the garage. It won't adhere to old concrete, either cut it out or drill and use re-rod which I wouldn't do.
Edited by Brian Hoffies 11/26/2018 6:30 PM
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Posts: 152
| I'd probably remove the brick pavers the size of the slope. So it's a concrete ramp from earth up that meshes better with the brick and has some thickness at the bottom of the slope. |
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Posts: 31
| The simplest and cheapest way I can think of is by using a piece of treated 2 x 4. Get a piece as long as you need and then drill a couple of holes thru the 2 by into the concrete and bolt it down. Use stainless bolts to keep it rust free. The bump will only be 1 and
1/2" from the ground and another 1 and 1/2" to the garage level. You probably won't even notice it...
Edited by hairy lures 11/26/2018 8:55 PM
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Posts: 1710
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | 3/8” steel plate welded to a set of 3” box tubing that you cut to match the desired profile/length. For 3” rise, I would go at least 12” long. Make two that are portable and it won’t be unsightly every time the boat is parked. You could go stainless for looks, but it will cost you. Any weld shop should be able to do this for you easily if you don’t have access to a welder and cut off wheel. |
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Posts: 1451
Location: Kronenwetter, WI | .
Edited by Cowboyhannah 11/26/2018 10:23 PM
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Posts: 3479
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
My first question I would have is are you looking for a temporary fix or a complete fix?
If a temporary fix is desired, I'd think a small ramp as suggested would be ideal. I don't even know if I would bolt it down as temp and humidity changes will eventually cause something to give. Then...if you want it removed for aesthetic purposes, you can do so.
I'd maybe look at using a 1 x12, stacked with a 1 x 8, then stacked with a 1 x 4, and those pieces secured together. I'd even maybe angle the front edge of each as best I could with a rip saw to somehow make the transition even smoother.
For a complete fix, this would require a bit more invasive work. A tear out of the paver driveway to some extent, build up along the garage with a class 5 gravel bed...compact it really really well, then either A) reinstall the pavers, or B) have a concrete transition poured with re-bar as was suggested previously.
Steve |
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Posts: 786
Location: Delavan, WI | There are companies that do cement jacking by drilling holes and injecting foam underneath it will last a long time and looks good, had this done at my old house in 3 or 4 spots of driveway cost was around a $1000 but it was multiple parts they also call this process mud jacking but company I used did it with foam as it doesnt wash away as easy |
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Posts: 1516
| Have u considered doing a modification on a plastic or rubber speed bump. The are 2 or 2 1/2 inches tall doesn't get you to 3 but close. |
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Location: 31 | I purchased a rental house and had the same problem with an asphalt driveway that had sunk a couple inches lower than the garage floor. While putting in new brick paver sidewalks I just cut the asphalt back a few feet, played around with the gravel, and installed matching brick pavers. A few things I like about the paver solve for that problem is it's pretty inexpensive if you do it yourself, it add value/curb appeal, and if/when they settle it's a piece of cake to fix with just a bag of sand. If you do decide to go with pavers for a garage apron, I recommend using the thicker brick.
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