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| Just curious what tactics you people are using on fishing break lines. Im talking 5ft-10ft flats that drop into 20ft-30ft of water steep like. Is it better to troll the edge using deeper diving cranks? Casting cranks perpendicular to the break? If casting what depth are you trying to achieve out of your cranks? Any luck with big rubbers? Maybe big cow bells? Im yet to find a jerk bait that I can figure out how to use but any suggestions would help. |
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Posts: 30
| I also am looking into trying beak lines for the first time. Very interested in hearing thoughts and ideas. Somewhere to start would be cool. Should I step back from the weed flats I have been seeing fish and work those breaklines? Any other significant things to look for while reading a map? |
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Posts: 2097
| Trolling the breaks work, counting down rubber works well casting. |
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Posts: 537
Location: Gilberts IL/Rhinelander WI | 1. Break lines with shelves...
2. Baits landing where you typically start the figure 8 |
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Posts: 688
Location: Northern IL | It's best to check it by trolling. Trolling will show you where to cast. |
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Posts: 358
| troll to set the edge. I like to work it with the boat on the break, casting parallel, in and out at 45s. especially if there is a weed edge associated. many times fish do not like to move OFF but will move parallel. |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | map the breakline in detail on your electronics to show you fingers, points or turns. this will help you cast or troll more accurately and find the spot on the spot. |
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Posts: 255
| All the feedback here has been good. I would just encourage you hit first breaks and see what happens. I am a caster. After stepping away from typical weedline casting in my earlier years, I came into contact with bigger fish off the weedline and breaks. If you spend time out there it feels like no man's land, but it is big fish territory. On a typical WI lake(max 25') I found myself comfortable in 10-17' of water more and more. I'd cast toward weeds, then turn around and cast the other way. Or with a partner one is toward weeds and another toward deeper water. Funny how all my nicer fish were being caught/seen in about 9+' of water. Rubber, 4-5' cranks, jerks down about 3'. Steep breaks in Fall will produce. All about confidence. |
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Posts: 400
Location: Metro | muskidiem - 9/24/2015 11:40 AM
All the feedback here has been good. I would just encourage you hit first breaks and see what happens. I am a caster. After stepping away from typical weedline casting in my earlier years, I came into contact with bigger fish off the weedline and breaks. If you spend time out there it feels like no man's land, but it is big fish territory. On a typical WI lake(max 25') I found myself comfortable in 10-17' of water more and more. I'd cast toward weeds, then turn around and cast the other way. Or with a partner one is toward weeds and another toward deeper water. Funny how all my nicer fish were being caught/seen in about 9+' of water. Rubber, 4-5' cranks, jerks down about 3'. Steep breaks in Fall will produce. All about confidence.
Thanks for the info. I have been teaching myself for the past couple years and have always questioned myself when casting in from 20' of water. I would always slowly move back into 10-15' of water and start casting in. I noticed that I would get a lot of active fish right next to the boat but couldn't get them to bite most of the time. I am thinking if I move out just a little bit they might have more time to become interested and strike the bait. |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | weediness grow based on water clarity and the "edges" of dark water are different than the "edges" of clear water ... get to know that and then on clear water find the deep weeds. helps you gain confidence when you look at your sonar relative to what you are throwing to. still, mapping it is the best way to really get to know it (the breakline). |
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Posts: 39
| ive always been a bucktail fan and alot of the time im out on the water here in indiana i find myself in 30 feet of water or more casting inwards. i started making my own bucktails and used one for the first time last weekend and in 3 hours moved 19 missed one and boated a 40. the problem ive ran into is most bucktails wont run deep enough for me so i figured ild make my own alot heavier then the typical ones. i really think getting the bait down with out slow rolling really helps in this instance. i just read another really good article in MH about weighted leaders for this application as well |
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Posts: 400
Location: Metro | I would like to know more about your lure. I fish blades almost all the time since I am by myself and like to cover water (Minnetonka is huge). I am wondering about your lure because on Minnetonka there are a lot of breaks that drop very quickly. I feel like there are big fish down there but I cant get the bucktails to drop fast enough even when I slow roll.
If you end up finding a combination that works I would definitely be interested in buying one from you. |
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Posts: 1405
Location: Detroit River | I fish a small lake that has about 100 yards of shoreline that goes from 5'-7' & drops sharply down to 20'-22'. When the wind blows me along the the drop I like to jig with a Bondy & if there's no wind I'll use the trolling motor on low to move me along the drop. Other wise I'll cast a Medussa up to the 5' depth & work the bait back giving it a longer pause than I normally would so it sinks a little more & the fish will usually come up for it.
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Posts: 656
Location: Forest Lake, Mn. | Everything you could ever want to know about fishing breaklines and structure, from the man who started it all.
https://buckperry.com/shop/educational-materials/spoonplugging-your-...
This is the basis, basics, of all modern structure fishing. You don't need to buy or use spoonplug lures, it's the theory and knowledge that's important
Edited by fishpoop 10/2/2015 9:41 PM
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Posts: 321
Location: Glen Ellyn Il | Read Buck Perry's SPOONPLUGGING your guide to lunker catches, you will know all you need to know about breaks and breaklines
Gino |
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