|
|
Posts: 4266
| I picked up some of this at a local hardware store. I had never seen it and figured I'd give it a try. It drys cream colored but is stronger than the regular 5-minute. I figured I could use it for lips on lures with a pearl colored belly. I tried it out on some belly weight holes, and I'm going to be getting more. It is so much nicer to use than the regular 5-minute. It doesn't run at all, it has a longer time though it says it's the same, but the best part is that there were no steamers at all. Even when it was getting near the end of it's handling time. It stayed where I put it and didn't make any kind of a mess. I'll be using this for lips from now on. Try it if you have it near you. I thought it was much nicer to work with. Now I'll see how it holds up.
Beaver |
|
| |
|
Posts: 653
Location: Moses Lake, WA | Beaver -
Epoxy gel is also good for glueing down the edges of foil to baits because it doesn't run all over and can be put down in very thin layers where it doesn't ooze out when you apply pressure. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| Cool, I found it very easy to work with. Much easier than the regular 5-minute. I going to search around and see who has the best price on it. It's listed at 2500 lbs of strength while the regular is 1500. I'll be using the gel from now on. I'll see what the local guy can get it for and keep the business at home. I'm always too quick to look to save a buck or two on the internet. Saving lots of money on ETex is different than 50 cents on a tube. Glad to see someone else has tried it and liked it.
Beaver
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 2021
| I used it for a repaint of a Jake, as well as to replace rod guides. I got a lot of bubbles the first time I used it, so I heat it after applying it and the bubbles are significantly reduced. It does get thinner with the heat and will run, but it gives about 30 seconds more working time. You can get a clear 5 minute 1500 lb tube as well, but I can only find them online. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| I checked with the local store and he can get it with 10 tubes in a box and is giving me a break on the price. It'll be here the day after Christmas. I really like it. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 908
Location: South-Central PA | The gel epoxies used in rod building also work very well. You can't beat an epoxy that doesn't run all over the place! The stuff I use is U-40 by Trondak. It's strong enough to drill and tap!
jeremy |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4266
| When I was filling weight holes on the Natural Redwood lures that I was doing, I would save the finest sawdust I could find...usually from the router... and I would mix it with the 2-ton epoxy that I was blending in hopes of matching the wood better. Most times it did a very good job, but I wondered if I was screwing up the strength in some way by adding sawdust to the epoxy. So I did some tests. I filled a weight hole like I normally did, then mounded some sawdust mixture on top of it. I also filled a hole part way with the sawdust blend, then inserted a 1" piece of a large pencil sinker and pushed on it until it bottomed out and then over filled the hole with the blend.
When both were cured completely, I put each one in a vice and pounded on the mound with a hammer. All I did was to flatten out each mound a little bit. It had cured as hard as regular Devcon 2-ton. I then took it to the sander and it sanded down nicely with no air bubbles like I though there might be. It routered just like the regular stuff, and I took the one that I filled with the blend first and cut as close as I could along side it with a band saw and didn't find any air pockets. So I guess if you need to fill some gaps with your epoxy you can add fine sawdust to the mix and it won't hurt it a bit, in fact it was easier to fill and mound the lead holes because it didn't have the tendency to fall off whatever you were using to move the mixture from one place to another, and it didn't tend to flow away from where you put it. Kind of like epoxy mud I guess. I'm going to blend a bigger batch and use it for some lures that I'm doing right now. As long as you keep chunks and slivers out of
it, it might make 2-ton easier to work with. So ends another episode of "Screwing Around in the Woodshop". |
|
| |
|
Posts: 32830
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Beav,
Ground fiberglass works well as a filler as well, makes a sort of putty when mixed with resin. You can set the curing time up to near hot potting it. Then you have a material that is bonding on a molecular level. The sawdust is soaking up the resin, so that is good, but this is better for overall strength and as a sanding surface. Cheap, too.
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/116_inch_Milled_Glass_Fibers_29/F...
These folks also offer microbeads and carbon fiber as filler materials. |
|
| |
