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Posts: 176
| Second full weekend day was cutting out the rest of the interior glass, foam and wood, which requires, a grinder, Sawzall, Dremel tool and lots of nerve. The nerve is required to run a grinder at full speed with foggy safety glasses, and a dust mask, mere millimeters away from the hull of your boat you plan to restore!
Lesson #2: take tons of pictures, not to put them up on chat room boards, but to remember how the boat goes back together, it doesn’t come with an instruction manual. The above photos are only a couple of 10s of dozens, along with some video to help me remember things, often I have a tape measure next to a part to remember depth or length as well.
The wood has a resin skin over it that holds everything together, thankfully! Or I would have fallen through the rotted wooden floor, but that also means that you need to get the skin off to remove the rotten wood.
Look at the back transom. The wood just crumbled off, it reminded me of a wasp nest. I always wondered how my 28 year old motor could move the boat 2-3 mph’s faster in its old age than when it was new. I figured it out. The boat weights about 800 pounds new. Each sheet of ¾” plywood when finished is about 60-80lbs. The floor requires three sheets and the transom is two pieces sandwiched together. The side boxes aren’t as heavy, so lets just call it 5 sheets finished at 75lbs each or about 400lbs with stringers etc. As you can see in the back my transom crumbled into the size of a volley ball and I assure you it weighted far less. Essentially my boat had went on a huge diet! And not the good kind.
After the transom, we were able to start taking out the rest of the sides and the foam, We kept the foam as it actually helps us know the measurements of the structures we needed to build.
At this point we started to sand down the wood and resin bumps and tried to get the surfaces clean. That was day two.
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