Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
On the smaller rigs, a manual jackplate will do just fine. I happen to have a cmc 4" manual set back, so my adjustments are made with the use of a floor jack. The cmc manual jack plate you can adjust via bolt, then tighten up the outside lock bolts to keep things in place.
In a smaller rig, having the ability to adjust motor height on the go is only going to be worth about 1 mph. In most cases, you'll find the sweet spot you like and you'll lock it in and leave it.
The benefit of the set-back: it moves the center of gravity more to the rear, which makes bow trimming easier. Also, by moving the motor back, the motor is running in cleaner water, which means prop hook up is better. Then, when the motor is moved back a few inches, the hole in the water (or depression if you'd rather call it that) begins to fill in, so a higher motor height is possible. There are limits to everything, though...get too high and slip increase dramatically, which is good for rpm, but speed will not go up..it will flat-line.
Gains: better prop bite, higher motor height (increases speed), less bow rise in some cases (trim under pushes bow down better due to center of gravity) and overall a more efficient running rig.
Cons: The installation of a water pressure gauge if you are above the mounting bolt-hole range of the motor. If the water pressure falls below 10 psi, a fried motor will soon be in your future. A steel prop is a must for any sort of jack plate, manual or hydraulic.
My humble opinion...it is worth it if you like to tinker and play for the best efficiency out of your rig.
Steve |
