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Posts: 44
| Steve,
Most times if your running a high performance set up (65MPH and up) you run a jack plate not only to ruduce drag by moving your height 1/4" at a time, but also to get the prop back into "clean water".
The hight of the cavitation plate in relationship to the planning surface of the boat is not usually as important( however it should be above the water when running) as the center of the prop to running surface of the boat.
I would level my boat in the garage and measure to the pad. Then I would measure to the center of the prop. Then I would divide the diameter of the prop by 2. I would then add that to the number to the center of the prop number. I wanted that number to be 1" greater than the distance to the pad. This allowed the prop to tick 1" out of the water on the highest up stroke. This is not alway's a final setting, but a good place to start.
If your running a repaired prop, hooked hull or a low performance boat none of this matters anyway.
But, getting back to the original topic, I can't believe Express can't give this person a starting point. I'm wondering if he has a speedometer pickup or transducer that's not causing the water to shoot straight up? | |
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