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hi


You are replying to:
Jerry Newman
Posted 4/16/2012 9:01 AM (#553426 - in reply to #553102)
Subject: Re: Electronics battery




Location: 31
horsehunter - 4/14/2012 6:26 PM

Jerry do you not get interference on your electronics when the trolling motor is running


I'm curious to find that out as well because I just hooked up 2 used HD 10s this way, and haven't fished with it yet.

I can tell you that I have done this in the past and it was not problem, that was 2 boats ago (over 10 years) and honestly can't remember if there was a little interference or nothing... either way I'm certain it was a non-issue or I would remember it.

If it is a problem with the new setup, there are battery isolators, or I could go back with a larger crank battery like TJ mentioned but I would prefer to grab the juice off the 36 V because I have the Steath and this suits my style of fishing best.

What I anticipate needing some help with is the best system to convert the 36 V system to 12 V so I'm not just pulling off of one battery, my thinking on this was first things first, get it set up and working okay, then look to improve.

Addendum:

Had a couple of phone calls and a PM on the stealth so for anyone else interested… The stealth system has been is in a word... fantastic! (I'm not a rep by the way)

First of all, when I purchased it originally I had a 24 V system (it was probably closer to 7-8 years ago?), then when I got this boat with 36 V, all I had to do was take a thing they call a "jumper" off and voilà it works perfectly with the 36V.

I do not have the piggyback charger, my old boat had an onboard charger and I don't think they had the piggyback available then, my new boat came with onboard chargers for both the 12 V and 36 V. Even though I came close to springing for the piggy back AC… at some point you have to stop spending for these cool upgrades.

The only problem I had was when I charged my trolling motor batteries with the 36 V onboard charger… I could feel my crank battery get warm and knew that was not a good thing so I just removed the positive lead to the crank battery for a while and then installed a flip circuit breaker (and a note to remember to flip it off) so no power can find its way back to the crank battery.

Typically I'm just plugging in the 12 V charger on the other side of the Stealth to charge/maintain all the batteries... it's pretty reassuring to just plug that in before a trip and know all 4 batteries are topped off.

When I troll and cast an equal amount, I never worry about charging my 36 V trolling motor batteries separately but obviously a lot depends on how much running and trolling you do versus casting whether the system is right for your application. Either way I guarantee you that at the end of a normal day there will be more juice left in your 24 or 36 V batteries, that means less recovery time which is better long-term for the batteries because they're not being drained and quickly recharged.

As Tom found out, the staff at Stealth is awesome if you have any questions ect… I'm pretty sure he said the cost for everything was about $600, I'm not sure how much just the Stealth charger without the AC is, but I suspect approximately half of that.


Edited by Jerry Newman 4/18/2012 12:49 PM

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