Posts: 32954
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | The proper use of a transom saver is JUST snugging up the motor at the proper angle, which supports and protects both the motor and the transom. I won't run a V6 without a transom saver properly adjusted and in place. That combination keeps my transom straps tight on my trailer, which is properly adjusted to the boat. Loose transom straps indicate a poorly adjusted trailer and/or an axle position that's not correct for the weight distribution of the boat on the trailer. Road stress from a motor that is dead weight and unsupported is WAY worse than running the boat hard in rougher than rough water, the motor when running exerts force against the transom and motor mounts that is completely different than that caused by an unsupported motor bouncing down the road. I run about 40K a year pulling a boat, and never even really scuffed up the lower unit, much less had any other damage from a transom saver, and that's over 32 years pulling a sales sample around.
Most boats now use anti-feedback (under 150 HP) steering or hydraulic, so no steering changes should occur either way if the steering system is healthy.
The partial tilt locks on motors out there do work, by balancing the weight of the outboard on the transom like a teeter totter. If the tilt/trim rams allows flex, however, they can be less than effective, and the angle required causes the lower unit to 'stick out' more. The ideal incorporated restraint is the strap used on the Merc 9.9 pro Kicker, but even that allows for considerable bounce and flex, so I trim mine down to travel.
A poorly adjusted trailer and no transom saver is a sure recipe for transom problems. By the way, wood core transoms are not 'weaker' than composites, the opposite can be true. The advantage of a composite transom isn't that it's really any stronger than a properly constructed Glass/wood core unit, it's no rot, ever. |
