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| Getting up on plane with a good hull is a function of the propeller more than anything else. If one has a the Maximum coast guard load on board, and has the rig at 75% hp, the prop should reflect that. I have found that most folks with planing and performance problems due to heavy loading are overpropped, and need a stainless, too.
For example, my 225 Opti Max runs at 5600 RPM with a 23 Tempest, and ROCKETS out of the hole regardless of load. With a 25 pitch, same prop model, I am several seconds slower out of the hole, and weight sensitive, taching at 5250 WOT, but faster by 4MPH or so. I could go to a High 5 if speed was not important, and have a breakneck holeshot with the 23, taching at 5700, or a very good holeshot taching at 5350 with a 25. The fastest prop is usually a three blade, the best hole shot comes with a properly pitched 4 or 5 blade.
Aluminum props ''flex'' when the motor is at WOT, and lose some of the cup and pitch that gives peak performance. Stainless does not flex, and holds it''s form perfectly. The idea an aluminum prop saves the motor from damage if one hits a rock is not necessarily true, I have seen lower units blown apart inside from a rock impact with an aluminum prop. Most dings that disable an aluminum will not even mark a stainless appreciably.
I have two boats, a 1760 Esox Deep V, and a 1990 Esox Deep V, and both are maxed out. I like to go fast. The 1760 will run VERY well with a 115, and the 1990 does 50s with a 150, so I could get away with alot fewer ponies, but WHY? Steve made a good point, I run my Opti at 4200RPM alot, and SIP fuel compared to what a 150XR6 would drink at the same speed on the same boat. | |
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