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hi


You are replying to:
VMS
Posted 4/19/2023 9:25 PM (#1020047 - in reply to #1019969)
Subject: Re: Alumacraft/Honda Propeller Recommendations





Posts: 3478


Location: Elk River, Minnesota
Hiya!!

A few questions are rumbling in my mind. First, what are your RPMs? Second question, what bolt hole is the motor mounted in? My gut instinct says the motor will be one bolt hole up off the transom as that was standard set up for overall handling and performance with an aluminum or the stock equivalent steel prop. It definitely leaves some room to improve.

I would also be wondering about is trim angle...at full throttle how far do you feel you are able to go with trim before the prop either blows out or the boat begins to porpoise? I would never want to assume improper trim on the operator part so I will respond under the premise of highest possible trim angle while underway.

Did a little digging on the Honda website...they don't list a prop in the specific size you listed, but they are also listing aftermarket props (Solas, Turbo) and the prop design can make a huge difference in performance as well. I'd be curious to see a picture of your prop which could be another indicator of where things are at currently.

So...what to consider. First, If you are considering a different propeller, I think I'd try to sway you into looking for a prop that has a higher amount of rake built in the design. Something along the lines of a mercury tempest plus. Looking at the diameter of your prop, you could potentially lower the diameter by an inch, and increase the pitch of the prop to a 20. With a higher rake, higher pitch and smaller diameter, you should be close in overall rpms to where you are at now or possibly a touch lower. Now...that being said, you can gain some of those RPM's back by lifting the motor off the transom another bolt hole or two.

These changes will help lift the entire boat out of the water more (higher rake, more bow lift), you'll have less lower unit in the water which decreases drag, and you will possibly obtain a slip number in the single digits. The ideal set up would allow you to keep the bow trimmed while taking a moderate turn, but a tighter turn will cause the prop to ventilate unless you trim down a touch. There is nothing to worry about with having the motor in a higher position off the transom as the water intake on the motor is designed to still be under water at the highest position. And....as the boat passes over the water, it is displacing water which then fills in as soon as the boat passes over it, so the water is actually higher on the lower unit than what you may anticipate. Standard position of the anti ventilation plate is even with the bottom of the transom, but it can be above the transom for that very reason. With a good stainless prop, it is a non issue.

The design of your boat is not one for speed, but getting another 3 to 4 mph out of the boat is definitely possible in my humble opinion. No matter what you try, there is always a compromise going on. Speed compromises handling to some extent, and vice versa. The key is finding a balance that works best for what you want the boat to do in the conditions you find yourself in.

I'm actually back to playing with some props on my rig now as I've found myself running in rougher conditions where the motor is around the 3000 rpm mark. It's enough to have the boat on plane, but it is right on the verge of where vent holes become a problem. I'm running an Etec 150 with a Raker propeller 14-1/2 x 20. I can hit 52 with a low tank of gas (my tank is up front....2003 ranger 617) which does not help much, but it is really steady for fishing up front, which is a plus.

If you are in the northern twin cities area at all, we could touch base around here and take the rig for a spin sometime as well...

Steve

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