Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | All: I hope everyone reading this understands that Shep, kgmh and myself are offering comment on what's been asked and subsequently posted in the thread, including the photo's, only because we see things that are wrong from an electrical engineering or safety perspective.
I don't think either of us are adverse to DIY projects as we also have done DIY wiring on our boat's and will freely offer advice when asked or if we see safety issues.
I'd offer photo's of Esox Mainac's wiring, but she's sitting in a big snowbank with the cover on......and its a little cold out there.
Actually the basic question to this thread is in the original post.
"Thank you in advance for those who offer advice/pictures/youtube links, etc..
I'm seeking information for installing a fused power distribution block/fuse panel next to the starting battery that will organize the multiple connected wires.
I will not be installing myself, but want to be able to ask a technician the appropriate questions or even better offer a solution.
Thanks again."
Here's some basic rules starting with Shep's advice.
1. Fuses or circuit breakers are located at the source end, and not the load end of the circuit.
Batteries are capable of extremely high currents. If some little rodent gets into your boat & starts chewing on the wires you or your neighbor's could be calling the fire department. The source end is the one closest to the battery.
Warning! A 100 ampere hour deep cycle trolling motor battery can deliver up to ~3000A!
2. Installing bus bar's, etc. for power distribution is OK, if done safely. They also need to be protected from short circuit currents if they are remote from the battery. The distribution wires connected to the bus bars should be protected by inline fuses located at the busbar end of the circuit - see rule 1.
Using AC system electrical parts for DC boat wiring is not recommended!
Do not mount electrical parts directly on carpeted wood!
3. All terminations need to have covers for safety and to protect the integrity of the connections. These include the battery terminals also.... kjmh pointed this out.
4. Color code or label/tag the wire's, and also make a simple wiring diagram, it makes trobleshooting easier. See esoxfly's photo. You can color code the cables using colored electrical tape or colored heat shrink insulation tubbing. I use the latter as it does three things, e.g., provides additional insulation, color codes the wire and it can't come off..
On Esox Maniac's 12/24VDC TM circuit I use red & white for the 24VDC positive and red & yellow for the 12V positive and black & white for the negative.
5. Use the right hardware and crimpers for the wire connections, and insulate the crimp barrels etc. Esoxfly's photo is a very good example, e.g. except for the fuse location issue that Shep pointed out, it looks very well done.
6. Only use tinned lugs, tinned crimps and tinned copper wire (marine grade) on your boat. The same is true of your boat trailer or truck. If you strip back the insulation and see copper strands you have the wrong wire type. You want to see silver colored strands (tinned). The same is true of terminations, lugs, crimps, etc. only use tinned parts. If they are copper only, they will corrode.
There are many online resources available for DIY boat wiring projects.
http://boatwiringadvice.com/circuit-protection/
http://www.marinewireandcable.com/p/marine-wire-color-codes.html
This product or one of their other products should meet all of agrimm's basic requirements.
http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuse_Blocks/ST_Blade
Please, no more angry PM's, I refuse to continue or entertain that kind of conversation. Please view the commentary above as an opportunity to make your DIY boat wiring project better and safer.
BTW: At the fishings shows, boat electrical system components and wiring is one of the major things I look at for quality of workmanship on new boats.
Have fun!
Al
Edited by ESOX Maniac 2/26/2014 1:19 PM
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