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Location: Green Bay, WI | There are a LOT of boat companies in the Northwest states (Oregon, Washington, Alaska) and in Canada (British Columbia) building off-shore boats using plate aluminum. The hulls are welded, and made of 3/16" to 1/4" on the bottom, and 3/16" on the sides. These are serious boats though--made for use well out into the Pacific ocean, in search of tuna, salmon or halibut. Check out boat manufacturers like Boulton, Hewescraft, Wooldridge and Duckworth...to name but only a few. While typically larger than you'd see around the Midwest, they certainly make smaller versions as well--and these would be suitable for use in these waters. That being said, there are dealers for some of these companies starting to pop up in the Midwest market. Just check out some of their websites to see for yourself.
In terms of the riveted aluminum boats you typically see in the Midwest, Lund, Alumacraft and Crestliner are three of the more popular brands--but there are several others. Like Steve said, these companies have been making aluminum boats for MANY years, so they've been perfecting their products over decades of big water experience. I wouldn't hesitate to take a Lund Baron 2150 or a Alumacraft Trophy 205 out onto any of the Great Lakes, for instance. I would obviously watch the weather of course, as these are only 20-22' boats at best. Aluminum or fiberglass, 22 feet is 22 feet. If there are 6-8 foot waves, you're going to get wet...no matter if the boat is aluminum or fiberglass.
One last thing I'll say is that an aluminum hull is generally lighter than a fiberglass hull, foot-for-foot. This may be helpful when you are launching or recovering the boat, but it may also be detrimental in the wind. For instance, I had an 1850 Lund Tyee and used it a lot on Green Bay in 2007 and 2009, but when the wind was blowing 20-30mph and I had the top canvas up, the thing was like a big sailboat. Very hard to maintain directional control with a kicker, I'll tell you that. In fact there were several days that I would loved to have another 300-400 pounds of boat while trying to fight the wind.
Anyway, I am an aluminum boat guy by preference. I grew up using, damaging and repairing them. Then I went to school to become an aircraft mechanic, and learned the proper way to maintain an aluminum craft. It's often easier than maintaining a fiberglass boat, because the material can be sheared with a machine or hand tools, and then simply sealed and riveted into place as needed. Obviously it's a bit more complicated with a welded hull, but many people say that's very simple as well. I've never welded on a boat hull though, so I cannot speak to that. But I have made repairs to fiberglass boats, and there definitely is an art to it--at least to do it correctly. Anyone can mix up some fiberglass resin and slap on some cloth. But that doesn't mean it's a GOOD repair, lol.
TB
EDIT: In my personal opinion, THIS is my ultimate big-water trolling boat...
http://www.boultonpowerboats.com/slideshow-explorer/album/index.htm...
Surprisingly enough, the cost on one of these is not what you might think. In fact, it's not much more than a Lund Baron, even with electronics. As you can see, there are many options that can be added--but there are also several styles of boats offered by these manufacturers, and this is about the highest cost model they offer.
Edited by tcbetka 4/18/2012 11:27 AM
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