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Posting a reply to: Casting deck and floor

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[QUOTE] - 12/30/2002  8:29 PM

Hello!!

If you have the standard S16 series, the casting deck in front will be very easy to do.  Basically, the seat supports that hold the front seat should be good, and definitely, the next seat is solid.  So...here is what I would do.  first, I would get some 2x2s to create a frame that would lay across the two seats, and also lay out a hatch that would allow you to create a storage space between the seats.  I would attatch the frame to the seats by first removing the seat decks and bolting them together with SS hardware and locknuts.  Reinstall and the frame is set (might be a good idea to coat the frame with exterior varnish/polyurethane to preserve)

From there, lay out the pattern for your deck (3/4 inch marine grade plywood) by finding the center line in the boat, and measuring the distance to the hull every 2 inches or so.  Once done, you can add carpet or vinyl to the deck to liking (make sure you dry fit everything first..you may have to trim your deck down to account for the carpet wraparound), then screw down to the 2x2 frame with SS wood screws.

Depending on what you want on the deck, you can install a pedestal base for a seat as well..

You could also make a front deck for a bow mount trolling motor by taking another piece of 3/4 inch marine grade plywood, set it on top of the hull, and trace the inner edge for cut.  Again, you may have to trim a little for carpet and such to get it flush with the top of the gunnel.  To install here, I would buy some 2 inch angle aluminum, cut V notches every inch or so on the horizontal, so you can bend the aluminum to match the hull.  Then, lay the deck on, and bolt down.

For floors in the rest of the hull, 3/4 inch plywood, cut to size to match the hull bottom.  Use some angle iron, or a couple of 2x4s cut to the curve of the hull to strengthen the board for flex, and you are set to go.  These are nice to be able to remove for cleaning purposes.

What is really nice about this set-up is that you can cover up Bow mount battery, the flat floor space is great to have, and the extra weight added to the boat means added stability and better rough water handling.

Have fun with your project

Steve

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You are replying to:

Posted 12/30/2002 8:29 PM (#54326)
Subject: Casting deck and floor

Hello!!

If you have the standard S16 series, the casting deck in front will be very easy to do. Basically, the seat supports that hold the front seat should be good, and definitely, the next seat is solid. So...here is what I would do. first, I would get some 2x2s to create a frame that would lay across the two seats, and also lay out a hatch that would allow you to create a storage space between the seats. I would attatch the frame to the seats by first removing the seat decks and bolting them together with SS hardware and locknuts. Reinstall and the frame is set (might be a good idea to coat the frame with exterior varnish/polyurethane to preserve)

From there, lay out the pattern for your deck (3/4 inch marine grade plywood) by finding the center line in the boat, and measuring the distance to the hull every 2 inches or so. Once done, you can add carpet or vinyl to the deck to liking (make sure you dry fit everything first..you may have to trim your deck down to account for the carpet wraparound), then screw down to the 2x2 frame with SS wood screws.

Depending on what you want on the deck, you can install a pedestal base for a seat as well..

You could also make a front deck for a bow mount trolling motor by taking another piece of 3/4 inch marine grade plywood, set it on top of the hull, and trace the inner edge for cut. Again, you may have to trim a little for carpet and such to get it flush with the top of the gunnel. To install here, I would buy some 2 inch angle aluminum, cut V notches every inch or so on the horizontal, so you can bend the aluminum to match the hull. Then, lay the deck on, and bolt down.

For floors in the rest of the hull, 3/4 inch plywood, cut to size to match the hull bottom. Use some angle iron, or a couple of 2x4s cut to the curve of the hull to strengthen the board for flex, and you are set to go. These are nice to be able to remove for cleaning purposes.

What is really nice about this set-up is that you can cover up Bow mount battery, the flat floor space is great to have, and the extra weight added to the boat means added stability and better rough water handling.

Have fun with your project

Steve