Posts: 2754
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Jason- If you left a switch on, it can discharge the battery where a normal battery charger won't even attempt to recharge it, i.e., most modern chargers have a low DC voltage protection/safety circuit where the charger will not recharge a deeply discharged battery. This protects the charger from abnormally high current. The work around is a set of jumper cables and your truck or one of the trolling motor batteries. Just jump the battery and let it charge from the truck to bring it up to ~ 10.5V or higher.
If you have a wet cell battery the charging voltage from your charger should be in the range of 13.8V to 14.4V. For AGM's or gell cells it's 13.5-> 13.8V.
I was thinking of coming up your way on Friday. If you're in town I could bring my DVM and we can check the charger and the alternator to see what's happening.
When I bought Esox Maniac ~ 6 years ago, I wasn't tuned into boat motor alternator's, etc. The tach wasn't working-but I really didn't worry about it, i.e., the motor ran great during the test drive. I learned the hard way that the tach on a 1989 Johnson 150HP runs off of the alternator electronics module. One month later- We were in Canada ~ 12 miles from camp. Hit the start & no go- fortunately I'm "anal retentive" about being prepared (lessons learned from the military). I had a set of jumper cables in the boat- jumpered a trolling motor battery to the main engine battery & we went back to camp. Figured out the alternator electronics/control module was toast- the jumper cables saved our trip. I got back & spent ~$ 450 for the electronics module to fix it.
Al
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