Posts: 742
Location: Grand Rapids MN | It's always good to contact the manufacturer for recommendations but they will always error on caution and say drain it. That's a good idea anyways if you want to start seeing the effect of your oil switch. But I'll throw a little 'casual oil info' out there for your reading pleasure. Your conventional oils are called Group II oils which is nothing but crude that goes through a hydrotreat process to remove some "impurities." Most synthetics you buy are a Group III oils which is a conventional oil (crude) that goes through further refining called Hyrdocracking. This goes a step further and 'breaks' some of the unwanted molecular chains (aromatics). They are essentially the same product just further refined. There are Group IV oils which are PAO's and those are man-made. These are more expensive to produce so fewer companies still use this for their standard synthetics oils. Even PAO's can be mixed with your conventional. There are instances where something goes wrong after an oil switch and it makes you nervious about doing it again (for a good reason), like in Joe's case, but it's usually something else that went wrong and not the change in oil. Just make sure what you choose is made for a water cooled 2-stroke and not air cooled because of the difference in ash content. Water cooled are generall ashless or very low ash oils. You will notice a difference right away if you get a higher ash content oil, seen it first hand in a friends boat. Missed bad on take off and didn't want to start very well. Luckily caught it early and cleared up over time with the right oil.
Hope this helped some what..... |
