Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
Not too hard to do...and I will do my best to keep it simple and straightforward
Tools needed: Hammer, Block of wood, needle nose pliars, large adjustable-end wrench, seal puller (if you have one)
Rags, and some type of mineral spirits in a container/bowl and a small brush (tooth brush works well)
Bearing packer.
1.) Loosen the lug nuts on the tire before jacking...jack and remove tire.
2.) With hammer in hand, spin the hub while tapping on the side of the "bearing Buddy". It will work it's way out nicely
and you won't distort the bearing buddy by doing so.
3.) Probably a bunch of grease on the end of the hub...take a rag and wipe off some. You should find a nut and a cotter
pin going through it. Take the needle nose pliars and bend the cotter pin straight. Then pull it out. This will free up the
castle nut and you can unscrew that. Wipe off as much grease as you can, then place in minerals spirits. Behind that you will find a thust washer (a spacer that also puts pressure on the outer bearing without damage) Remove that, wipe and put in mineral spirits.
4.) IF YOU HAVE A SEAL PULLER....pull on the whole hub assembly...it will slide right off...bearings and all.
4b.) IF you don't have a seal puller... Take out the outer bearing (just pull it out...clean it up and put in mineral spirits), but leave the hub in place. Put the thrust washer back on, then the castle nut. Then, with a couple of harder pulls, the seal in back will pop out and the bearing will come with it.
5.) Wipe down all parts (keep them in order, though...) and finally wash everything in mineral spirits. Let dry.
6.) Wipe down and clean the spindle on the trailer. Wash with mineral spirits...let dry. Time to repack...
Repack:
1.) Start with the inner bearing. Take a small gunk of grease and place it in the palm of your hand. Then, (and this will be hard to describe) holding the bearing wider side toward the grease, work grease into the bearing by pressing the bearing into the grease. continue to do so until grease comes out the top...It will be fully packed when grease starts to come out between the bearing and the bearing cage all the way around. Kind of like hamburger coming through a grinder. Make sure it is coming out all around on top...
1b.) If you have a bearing packer, follow instructions...the grease will come out everywhere when it's packed. These are really handy and quick.
2.) Lightly grease the inside of the inner hub. you will see a smooth face (called a race) where the bearing sits in. Drop
the bearing in.
3.) Place the seal (ride side in toward the bearing) over the opening, and with a block of wood and hammer, tap the seal
flush with the hub.
4.) Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the outer bearing and set aside on a clean surface for just a bit.
5.) Lightly grease spindle. then lightly grease the outer race on the hub, then place the hub on the spindle and push until you feel it "seat"
6.) Place a bit of grease between the hub and the spindle.
7.) Place outer bearing over spindle and slide into it's seat. Put on the thrust washer, then the castle nut.
8.) While spinning the hub, tighten the castle nut until you can barely turn the hub by hand. Then, back off the castle nut until the hub will spin freely again, but the hub cannot be pulled back and forth. Test as you go... If there is any "freeplay" you will feel it. Line up the castle nut with one of the holes in the spindle (the one that allows the least amount of "freeplay"...you might end up with just a touch) and insert a new cotter pin.
9. Bend the ends of the cotter pin so it cannot come out, you may find trimming the length of the cotter pin to be helpful.
10. Replace the "bearing buddy and tap the edges of the bearing buddy in with a hammer while you turn the hub. This will ensure the bearing buddy goes in straight. It is fully seated when you can hear a different tone to the hammering.
Replace wheel, tighten lugs, and repeat on other side.
Not too hard, but give yourself a couple of hours time if it is your first.
Hope this helps... |
