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| Hi, I have been helping my buddy set up his new boat. We installed a new terrova today (without universal sonar) and are out of idea to run the wire from the transducer. Can anyone post a pic of how they ran theirs, I have a power drive and ran the cord through the D handle on top. I dont know a good way to run the wire up without it pinching in the bracket when the motor isn't deployed. Thanks in advance to all who can offer an idea.
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Posts: 291
Location: Madison, WI | Im actually having the same problem. I run the transducer cord in the terrovas wiring but it really seems to stick, more so that I ever had with a power drive.
Anyone have a tranducer mounted to a Terrova? How was the cord run? Pics are welcome. |
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Posts: 73
Location: Indiana | Hummmmmm...I was wondering that same thing when I saw the design of the terrova...same with the powerdrive v2. But I'm guessing there's a solution...just might take some imagination. You could easily make some sort of guide that mounts on the shaft (that's what she said). That way the wire is held out and way from the base of the motor, and will keep it more "in place" so to speak. How pretty it looks will depend on how much you care to make it look pretty. |
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| why don't you just zip tip it to the shaft, just under the head unit. Be sure to leave a few inches of slack |
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| why don't you just zip tie it to the shaft, just under the head unit. Be sure to leave a few inches of slack |
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Posts: 73
Location: Indiana | Here's my guess. The problem isn't that the cord keeps slipping. The older powerdrives have that D shaped stow and delploy handle. That was perfect to run the transducer wire through because it kept the wire out of the actual base mechanism of the motoer. The way mine is set up, I have it zip tied to the top. But that's only part of it. The wire then runs through the D handle and down to the head of the trolling motor. It keeps the wire free and stationary and allows the head of the motor to turn without the wire getting caught up. If you don't run it through the D shaped handle, it will get caught in the base part where the trolling motor mounts....the cord would rotate around with the head, and the slack would make it get caught every time you turn.
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Posts: 291
Location: Madison, WI | Yep, that pretty much nailed it. I had a older PowerDrive with the D handle and it was perfect. This, not so much. You cant just ziptie the cord to the top of the shaft because when you spin the motor, the shaft goes with and will pull the cord around with it.
Im sure there are alot of people who own Terrovas and dont have the Universal Sonar, maybe its something really really simple that im missing. |
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Posts: 1936
Location: Eau Claire, WI | I ran a Terrova for two seasons on my previous boat and fought the same issues. Honestly; I never did find a solution other than to be careful when pulling the motor back up and deploying it to ensure the cord doesn't get caught up. While it was in use in the water I never had issues unless you would turn the motor 360.
This is something they should/could address for those that don't want the universal sonar.
Lesson learned. If I buy another I will get the universal sonar and hope the internal sonar is as good as the external.
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Posts: 2687
Location: Hayward, WI | I'm not that familiar with the Terrova, but I have a V2. I'm thinking they must be similar in regard to cable routing? My cable is electrical taped at the top of the shaft, and then the cable is run through the "pigtail" looped and plastic coated cable that goes from the head of the unit to the base.
Not sure if this is the problem you guys are having, or if my description is clear enough. I'll have to try to take a picture and post how I did it.
Yes, you can wrap the cord up if you let the head keep turning too much...but the solution to that is to not do it! I wasn't ever a problem for me. Just leave yourself some slack so the motor can turn enough and you should be fine.
curleytail |
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| Thanks for your replies i still havent found a good solution will post if i do |
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| Should of spent the cash for uni sonar! It so worth it. Delt with that crap all last year, It sucks. Like hudo more. It Is So Worth it. |
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| I'd like to change my previous answer... I think the best solution would be to mount the transducer on the transom and run it up to the front. Nothing wrong with having two transducers mounted on the back. I think we sometimes become overly obsessed with what's on the depth finder anyways. If you have a gps in the front, you should be able to navigate perfectly well. And if you're on a familiar body of water, no worries. Seriously, both of my depth finders say the same thing 99% of the time anyways. |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | If I get a chance tonight I'll post a pic of what I did for my Vexilar transducers. It's not perfect, and you do need to be careful when deploying, but it worked out ok for me this past weekend. |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | OK here are the pictures of how I have my transducer cables run on my Terrova. I have three cabels for my Vexilar (two transducers and a temp probe) so I have them taped up to form one large cable.
Basically I taped my cable at the base of the motor housing using electrical tape. If you tape on the shaft you will not be able to slide the motor into stowing position. I then have a cable tie above my stop color at the top to hold the wire to the shaft, loosely. I actually have mine about 1-2 clicks too tight right now as when I turn the motor sometimes the wire moves with the shaft. If it was a bit loos the shaft will turn and leave your cable where it is at.
When I raise and lower the motor I just be careful not to pinch my cables at the hinge point.
At first I routed my cable through the coiled wire of the trolling motor unit, but that didn't work for me like it did with my Power Drive prior to this. When I lowered my motor the coil would pinch my locator cables not allowing them to slide freely with the shaft.
Hope this helps.
Edited by CiscoKid 5/5/2009 8:35 PM
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Posts: 233
Location: Iowa | Or you can be like me and spend the extra money on the universal sonar and not be able to use because it is not compatible with my x-51. Which kind of sucks. The guy at cabelas said it would work but it doesn't.
Oh well, I guess I got it for when I'm able to upgrade my electronics.
Jeremy |
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Posts: 41
Location: Wheaton, MN | I came up with a method for mounting the transducer on the Terova and it doesn't interferre with any part of the stowing or deploying. I had it out and tried it out today and with the motor turned in any direction before it is stowed doesn't make a differance it didn't catch on anything. You do have to pull the chord up after each deployment but thats a minor detail. Here's the pictures of how I did it. All it takes is an oversized electrical wire staple, I used the biggest one I could find, and a small ziptie. I don't know if this would work with fiberglass on the bow but there are has to be ways to do it.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b84/jlb66/100_1737.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b84/jlb66/100_1738.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b84/jlb66/100_1740.jpg
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b84/jlb66/100_1741.jpg
Just what I came up with that works great.
Edited by jlb66 5/11/2009 6:30 PM
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Posts: 55
Location: Arena WI | I had a Genisis with the same problem. What I did was mount the transducer with a hose clamp, then I tapped a hole under the head toward the back. I then mounted a retractable key keeper to that hole, pulled out 16-18" and attached it tightly to the cable with a wire tie. When you spun the motor the keeper would extend along with extra cord, when spun back it would retract. I pinched off on my first try because of it being automatic. After that it worked for 3 years with no problems, I can't say that for the motor. I now have a terrova with universal sonar. The gennis was a love hate relationship. I have a feeling they will try again with the terrova.
Good Luck
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Posts: 291
Location: Madison, WI | jlb66 nice idea on the electrical staple. Turns out in my instance, I was able to return the terrova and get the universal sonar. Thank god for that and I should have done more research before getting the one without the universal sonar, I just assumed it would work like the older models did. I think your idea would work and I would have definately used it if not for the return. I thought about somehow mouting an eye bolt somewhere and using that to "guide" the wire.
Good luck with it.
Edited by PredLuR 5/11/2009 8:22 PM
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Posts: 41
Location: Wheaton, MN | I was going to use a eye bolt or somthing to that effect but I didn't want to pull all my electrical things to the sonar out and cut wires and resplice so this was the easiest way I could think of |
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| Hey Guys,
Theren is a simplle solution that has worked great for me for two years now.
The flat metal tensin tab that comes in contact with the horizontal locking pin.
Tha picture above shows it real well. Anyways make a loop with azip tie with an openining about large enough ti put the end of your thumb through. Have this loop secured around the flat metal spring tap and run your cord from the transducer through this loop. Secure the cord at the base of the head using aanther large zip tie and or tape. I also put a rubber sleeve around the actual transducer cord to help from getting the insulation cut. Just make sure to leave enough slack foer full rotation of the trolling motor head. I then ran the cord back down to the base through the center of the coiled cord. and secured near the base. Has worked perfect for me and no chance of trapping the cord in the deploying mechanism.
Hope you can picture what I've said
Dean
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| All,
You can cut the sonar cable and resplice. I have done it and if done carefully it works fine. You will find that some of the wires are shielded. I "reshielded" them with aluminum foil. I cut, ran the wire up the groove on shaft of the Terrova, thru the power cable and back into the hull, which is were the splice was .  |
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| take the head off the terrova by removing 4 screws, remove the bolt and nut below the head as well.
Pull the shaft through the mounting unit and lay the motor and shaft on a table, use Dow 5200 adhesive and glue the transducer wire into the channel in the shaft. use tape to hold the wire in place until it cures, allow at least 48 hours in 70+ temp for curing.
Remove tape from shaft and run end of transducer wire through mount unit then push shaft back into place. put a round or two of tape around wire at the base of the shaft and replace the head on the unit.
This keeps the wire completely out of the way and is very simple to do. |
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| crappie usa 1 - 2/20/2012 12:03 PM
take the head off the terrova by removing 4 screws, remove the bolt and nut below the head as well...This keeps the wire completely out of the way and is very simple to do.
what he said. this is very clean and neat, no more flapping wires!
i used LocTite marine adhesive instead of the Dow adhesive, and zip-ties at the base since they hold tight more permanently than tape. it's an easy job that takes less than an hour, and requires very little mechanical skill.
there's a photo-essay that will walk you through the process at this link, the author just asks you to sign his guestbook in "payment" for the info. the Terrova/transducer cable portion is pictures #123-131:
http://imageevent.com/okoboji_images/hummingbirdsideimaging
one limitation that the author of that photo-essay points out is that the Humminbird cables will fit in the slot; the Lowrance HDS cables do not.
Edited by lambeau 2/20/2012 3:43 PM
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