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Posts: 770
| Hey everyone, i almost never fish glide baits because I can never get hooks into fish. This weekend I had a glidebaits get hit 7 times and I only got hooks into one fish, about an 18 incher. My hooks are sharp and the bait in question is a dunwright dancer.
I was setting the hokm as fast as I could after feeling the strike. And I've missed 3-5 fish the same.way in the past
Suggestions? |
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Posts: 1759
Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | Try just using a downward angled steady sweep after you feel pressure. Save the upward hookset for jigging and slip bobbers. |
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Posts: 770
| I have been setting the hook to the side with my rod parallel with the water |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | The best glide bait advice i ever got was this:
Take the all the gliders out of your tackle box, make a pile with the wood ones on the bottom and the plastic ones on top, burn the whole works. You won't catch any less fish. |
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Posts: 2228
Location: SE, WI. | ^^^^. ^^^^. What Flambeau said...^^^^ I usually throw mine in the woods, and leave them there!!! I'd like to join the gliders Suck Club!!! Actually, I sold most of mine...BUT kept 3-4, they are good for pre fishing tournaments....won't burn fish!!! Try this type of retrieve...tap Rod 3 times....get 3 swings, stop, again, 3 taps, stop....Now take about 7-9 turns of the reel handle....repeat this to boat. When turning reel handle, fish feels like it's getting away, and they climb all over it, just swimming forward, and usually inhale it!!! JD  |
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Posts: 32788
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | I have a number of 48 to 50s over the years on gliders, I'll keep 'em in the arsenal. Fish them right, and they get bit. Set the hook so the rod is actually doing something other than pulling on the line, and they get stuck. |
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Posts: 1937
Location: Black Creek, WI | I suggest adding a good pause in your cadence. Seems guys that continuously work the bait have poorer hook ups. When a fish T-Bones the bait on a pause, you should get them every time. |
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Posts: 626
Location: Madison, WI | I think I’ve caught more muskies on gliders than I have on buck tails. I’ve missed my share as well but I usually use the smaller size gliders and they hook up pretty well. Fish seem to get the whole bait with the smaller 6” ones so that may help with hookups. |
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Posts: 770
| JD that's a great idea going to be doing this for sure!
And Sworral can you better explain your hookset? |
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Posts: 50
Location: Southern Indiana | I make a lot of gliders and therefore fish them a lot. I work the rod straight down with a quick half turn of the reel, 4 to 8 taps or so then a pause. Probably 75% of the hits come after the pause, and almost all hook up. Fish will miss the bait sometimes due to the erratic action, but when they hit they usually get hooked. Occasionally I’ll get slammed then nothing, but not very often. |
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Posts: 20179
Location: oswego, il | I don't have any problems catching fish on glide baits. I enjoy using them. Get that pause in there it is when the fish hits. You also want a really great hook. I like black nickel round bend hooks on my gliders. My experience has been erratic baits get more strikes unless the water is cold. |
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Posts: 32788
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | T3clay - 6/19/2018 10:09 PM
JD that's a great idea going to be doing this for sure!
And Sworral can you better explain your hookset?
Sure. The mechanics of a good hook set are poorly understood, unfortunately. Here's a way to test things. Have a friend hold on to a lure with no hook, and have him stand 30' away. Do a standard 'sweep' hook set to the left or right, and I'm betting you won't cause much impact to his hand, much less his arm, and won't take the lure away from an easy grip.
A muskie rod is designed to flex along a center line under the guide feet. The energy transferred through the line to the hooks is determined by how much that rod blank flexes and causes an impact. 'Pulling' on the line, which is what most are doing with sideways sweeps, lots of arm movement, or any hook set that doesn't actively employ the wrist will cause resistance, but not an impact. In that case, the fish pretty much is left to hook its self.
The rod and the wrist are what creates the most effective hook set. I always hold the rod at ready pointing at the lure, and to set the hook with as much as 6 or 7 pounds of impact, simply tighten the line, and flex my wrist sharply upward. On a glider, most of the hits come on the pause. I give the fish a second after I feel the first 'tic', and then let her have it. Believe it or not, casting accurately and with little effort employs the same concept reversed.
That requires holding the rod as close to the fulcrum point as is possible, and keeping it in position all the time. Don't move your arms and shoulders around at all, that just creates slack line. Reel the line tight and slam the hooks home with a flexing wrist hookset.
You should be able to create an audible somewhat violent sound with a proper hook set.
I learned the technique working with Shag Shahid at a few of the early Mercury Marine National Walleye Tournaments. Google that guy, he was one of the most famous trick casters in history, and could launch a gallon jug full of water into the air on a hookset.
https://www.flwfishing.com/tips/2012-03-27-back-story-no-more-casts-... |
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Location: Contrarian Island | I catch quite a few on gliders, best advice I can give is work the rod to the side, not down, once I started working them that way 10 yrs ago my catch rate went way up as there is no slack line when you get a hit the rod loads you sweep to the side, you're already in position. when you work the rod/bait with a downward motion like I see so many do, when one hits you really aren't in a good position to set the hook... |
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Posts: 20179
Location: oswego, il | ^this. I work the rod across my body for everything. Less fatigue as well. |
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Posts: 72
| jlong - 6/19/2018 1:58 PM
I suggest adding a good pause in your cadence. Seems guys that continuously work the bait have poorer hook ups. When a fish T-Bones the bait on a pause, you should get them every time.
very well put. you have to give the fish a chance to eat it. a steady cadence with a glide bait gets less hard strikes and more follows/swing and miss. think about it like a well done figure eight, you want to play the pull away game until the fish is ready to crush it on the outside turn... aka 3-5 taps then a pause |
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Posts: 770
| I always incorporate long pauses when working a glider and work the rod to the side, I believe my issue is my fast reflexes and not giving the fish a half second to close their mouths. Thanks everyone for the advice! |
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Posts: 479
Location: Northern Illinois | I have had good results working glide baits vertically with a 7 1/2' or 8' rod using your wrist and forearm. Done correctly your rod ends up pointing right at the bait on the pause just like WTD topwaters. Crank up the slack as you bring the rod back up to level. Hookset across your body. |
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Posts: 612
| BNelson - 6/20/2018 9:49 AM
I catch quite a few on gliders, best advice I can give is work the rod to the side, not down, once I started working them that way 10 yrs ago my catch rate went way up as there is no slack line when you get a hit the rod loads you sweep to the side, you're already in position. when you work the rod/bait with a downward motion like I see so many do, when one hits you really aren't in a good position to set the hook...
I fish a lot w glide - jerk baits. I do what this guy said. Work it with sideways sweeps - jerks (not up and down). Then let the fish tell me how long to pause. Pauses range from just a moment (almost no pause) to > 5 seconds. This results in a pretty high % of hookups "at least for me". Remember like fishing jigs glide and jerk baits require some patience and practice. It's not just a matter of casting them and retrieving them like w bucktails or crankbaits, but they catch fish, mostly on the pause. |
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Posts: 3136
| Actually the positive is your doing the right things to trigger them,,,maybe your missing the hook sets but at least you have A chance,,instead of just follows on some other bait. |
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Posts: 897
| Which size dancer and what is your cadence like? Dancers are pretty much the only glider I use. I've caught a lot of fish on them and rarely have them get off if they hit the bait...and really don't get many misses that I'm aware of. I mainly use the largest size with a hard snap, wide swinging, erratic, sometimes the bait jumping out of the water cadence. |
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Posts: 1767
Location: Lake Country, Wisconsin | I like JLongs suggestion about the pauses. That’s generally when mine get smashed. I’ve had less success with pinning them on some of the more erratic/faster gliders |
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Posts: 770
| I have all size dancers and I give them some pretty long pauses.... I think by all the replies my conclusion is I'm setting the hook too soon, possibly before the fish had their mouth shut |
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Posts: 32788
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Just like a topwater, wait till you feel the fish at least. The real secret to a cadence that can't be beat is a high speed reel, moving the bait with the reel and accentuating the erratic action I like to get with taps from the rod tip. I'll try to get a video shot in the next week so you can see what I'm getting at. Watch the Dockside Suick videos from Spring Bay Resort in our video section from the last few years for a good preview.
Try that experiment with the hook set, have a friend stand a casting distance away and try to take the bait (hookless, please) out of his grip using different hook set techniques.
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