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Posts: 46
| Does anyone have experience with CE Smith trailer bearings? I'm wondering if they are of good quality or if people have had any problems with them. |
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Posts: 1675
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | Most hubs come with Chinese bearings that are acceptable for most use. I prefer SKF, FAG, Timken, MRC (division of SKF), or Koyo. The Germans/Japanese make a lot better components and a lot of what we buy from tier 1 manufacturers are even made here. They will probably be ok, but I prefer companies that are more well known for making bearings. |
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Posts: 1120
Location: West Chester, OH | Name brand vs. country of origin?
Trailer is 29 years old w/original Japanese bearings on 1 axle. OEM escapes me. Other side, result of seal failure, was replaced @ 20 years. Bought Timken, stamped "Romania."
During the next annual re-pack/seal, discovered several rollers partially seized/binding - w/o evidence of trauma. Bad day @ the Romanian bearing mill?
Replaced w/Timken, stamped w/another country of origin. No issue since. |
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Posts: 1660
Location: central Wisconsin | Cincy's originals were probably Koyo.
Don't skimp on price when shopping bearings, grease with either a high quality marine grease or synthetic. Leave room for expansion, you don't need to pack the hub full of grease. |
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Posts: 138
Location: Aurora IL | because of the cheap overseas made bearings most people (and many trailer companys) use we replace bearings every repack. Yes it costs more, yes its worth it. Don't be that guy (I was once, had my bearings start on fire!!) Bill |
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Posts: 860
Location: NE Ohio | i think alot of people forget that there are two major components when talking trailer bearings. the bearings of course and the other is the "race" that the bearings ride on. they start off being a matched set. if you are just changing the bearings out you really don't have the "matched" set situation any longer. the races aren't easy to change but with the right tools and equipment it can be done in a timely manner. just sayin................ |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
I will concur with not skimping on bearing replacement. It is worth it to pay a little more given the bearings are high quality. The last place anyone would want an issue is being on the side of the road with a hub gone bad.
I will also concur with any replacement of a bearing, the races should go as well. They are matched to begin with because there has been no wear between the two parts. Once the trailer has been used a while, the races and bearings will essentially wear on each other, but they wear as a matched set. So...when one only replaces the bearing, it is no longer matching the worn race, thus things are not going to run as well, there might be vibrations, etc, and premature bearing failure is the result.
I just did my repack last night as I ran out of time last fall...bearings are about 6 years old, stamped China... They are still in great shape yet. I know there are some poorly made bearings out there, but I honestly feel it really comes down to maintenance....repacking yearly for boat trailers being dunked multiple times, it is peace of mind.
As for filling the hub with grease....you definitely do NOT need to. filling the entire hub with grease can lead to a premature oil seal failure, leading to the same as above...a hub gone bad on the road. At the end of many years of dunking the trailer hundreds of times, I've not had water in my hubs a majority of those years. Other years, there are a few drops here and there, but that is it...
It really comes down to yearly maintenance...repack in the fall, don't overfill, and if replacing bearings, do the races as well... It's peace of mind, and you won't be stuck on the side of the road with a hub seized to an axle, or a lost hub altogether...
Steve |
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