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Posts: 1023
| I had a tiny leak on my 07 a FishHawk at a lower transom bolt so I sealed all 4 bolt holes properly again. All is good now EXCEPT my top bolts are indenting the aluminum in about and 1/8-1/4". I got a tip from a guy that this may be due to transom rot due to water sneaking in the Crestliner cap! This happened to his Crestliner. My exposed wood looks ok but I can't see the wood near the top of the transom. I am fearing that he is correct. I have some minimal flex if I stand on the motor's cav plate and bounce a bit but no obvious movement otherwise. If rotten it's not the cheapest fix. $2000+
Anyways - has anyone here replaced a Fish Hawk transom. I am not overly handy but was wondering if it was a matter of removing the motor, unbolting the fittings and sliding the old wood out. The thru hull fittings are all below the wood section. I am guessing that Crestliner would sell me a new transom wood replacement.
I am the second owner btw.
Thanks guys. Wasn't able to find any useful info on the Internet on these boats and transoms.
Landry |
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Posts: 1209
| Minimum movement isn't an issue. The dents are also not a concern. Run it for a few more years just pay attention to it changing, if it is bad it will change in a matter of a few days on rough water but you should be fine unless you only fish lotw then you may want to be pre-cautious. |
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Posts: 99
| Google Lund transom replacement. Tons of info on replacing transom eps as they had a lot of problems. I know it's not crestliner but a lot of info would be helpful. |
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Posts: 273
Location: US | I replaced the transom in my fisher this winter. It wasn't hard or expensive, just time consuming. Iboats has a lot of good information should you choose to do it yourself. You may not find any info on your exact boat, but looking at similar boats will give you a good idea on what to expect. If you do it, just make sure you don't use pressure treated plywood. Marine grade plywood is best, but ABX/ACX plywood would work as well, make sure to use waterproof wood glue. Seal the entire transom with epoxy after drilling any holes and before re-installing then use 3M 4200 on all fasteners. This would take you a few weekends (need time for glue, epoxy, sealant to cure, etc.) but the end result should be far superior to the original and last as long as the rest of the boat. |
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Posts: 273
Location: US | Also, you should be able to look at all the fasteners on the outside of the boat going through the transom, this will give you any idea on how much of the interior you will have to take apart to access all of the through bolts. |
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Posts: 1087
Location: Hayward, WI | If you are original owner you might check into getting it covered under warranty. |
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Posts: 8721
| Hi Landry - not a Lund, but a buddy of mine had the same issue with the transom on his Tuffy. It took some time with chisels, long screwdrivers and even a small chain saw, but he was able to get all the rotten wood out and replaced it with some sort of fiberglass that you mix and pour. Last I heard it was as good if not better than new. It took him a few weekends when all was said and done, but it was not as big of a deal as it sounded. |
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Posts: 39
Location: Lawrenceburg,IN | Crest liner fixed my 2000 under warranty about 4 years ago. Took it to crestliner dealer.It was picked up by them and returned in 6 weeks with a new transom.Took it back to MN and fixed .All covered under warranty.
Edited by twelts 7/19/2016 12:31 PM
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Posts: 1023
| Thanks guys. Appreciate your insight.
Unfortunately I am the second owner and warranties are not transferable on pre2010 boats.
I feel it is safe now but I also believe that some rot has started and replacement is inevitable eventually. I am going to have it looked at and make a decision about paying for the repair or doing it myself. |
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Location: 31 | The transom on an 18”’ Crestliner I had got really soft and the thought of laying on my side for a couple of days didn't appeal to me because I was planning on getting a new boat within a year or two.
It was also mid-season like this and I wanted to get back on the water ASAP, so I had the transom motor mount holes drilled out from the outside at a machine shop for large aluminum bushings, then the guy sandwiched good sized pieces of 1/8” aluminum on both sides of the bushings. The piece for the splash well transom wall was cut to fit the length with ¼” (as I recall) and after reinstalling the motor with longer bolts I just painted it to match and caulked everything in place.
I ran it hard for another year or two on big water and the motor flexed the transom less than at any time since I bought the boat, certainly not a textbook repair, but it was also fast, cheap, and solid. I ended up selling it to an acquaintance with full disclosure.
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Posts: 2
| I had my transom replaced on my Crestliner 1750 fish hawk last year. Look around for different quotes. I paid just under $1800. There's plenty of options out there. I received quotes from $1800-$4,000.
The transom wasn't in horrible condition, but it was flexing, and a couple of the metal support brackets had broken. I'm not sure exactly why it happened, but it the wood had just lost much of its strength.
Its a project that you can do yourself, but it will obviously require an engine hoist, and at minimum a few days. Especially with it being your first time doing it. |
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Posts: 1023
| Thanks everyone. I am gonna have it looked at and go from there. |
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Posts: 50
| Reviving this thread....wondering if anyone can tell me what the hull/transom warranty is on a 2005 Crestliner Fish Hawk? I am the original owner.
I'm having my transom checked out and feel like the warranty was good for 15-years, 20-years, or lifetime but I can't remember.
Thanks in advance.
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Posts: 20180
Location: oswego, il | I had a friend of mine replace the transom on his '04 1850. He used composite. You have to cut the ends of the cap and have it re-welded. The board was quite expensive,, 750 I believe. |
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Posts: 480
Location: Northern Illinois | Google SeaCast. |
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Posts: 315
| Also look at Coosa board for a composite alternative or you could layer up plywood and fiberglass it for longer life if needed. Replacing a transom isn’t really that hard. When I replaced the one in my old Tuffy Maurauder getting the old one out was Half the battle. After that it’s basic woodworking skills and the ability to be able to lay fiberglass and epoxy if needed. Plus you can save enough money to be able to buy new electronics or something! Good luck! |
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Posts: 51
| This may or may not be relevant because it's about 20 years ago on about an '81 Crestliner. When replaced a transom, I called Cestliner for a replacement, was told they did not have one, but to just use CDX plywood, because that is what they used. When removing the old one, it appeared he was correct as it was mostly like a paper mache, mush.
I ended up using a piece from a beam used for the overhead on wide garage doors.
This looked tough as H...: was probably 20 or more plies. It was wood and from the local bldg supply..
Since most technology is much better by now, I would at least ask Crestliner what they use in today's world to decide on what to use they may have one available.
Pretty simple job if you have the tools - and the engine hoist. I temporarily used 2 x 4's
Attached strong ratchet hoist from beefed up garage rafter. Then stabilized from rafter to floor with 2 x 4 s . You have to use your own judgment here pending engine size/wgt. Mine then was only a 50 HP.
Good Luck |
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Posts: 2280
Location: Chisholm, MN | Are all crestliner fishhawk transoms wood? |
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