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Posts: 243
| Having a lot of trouble starting my motor and keeping it running off the trailer. '99 Mariner 135 EFI. Starts fine, will run for 10-30 seconds and then stops....over and over. Lately, I'm having to start it 6-8 times before I can throttle it back and keep the motor running, which has to be hard on the starter. After that, it runs great. No issues moving from spot to spot later. Out on the lake 24 hours later, same issues.
Took it in for service, guy said he couldn't identify the problem, but my RPMs at idle were around 600 when they should be at 750. Ideas??? |
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Posts: 5874
| Authorized Mercury Service guy? I can't see a good tech giving up on this. I'd likely try a different dealer.
Could be any number of things. Fuel filter. Fuel pump. Plugs. Coils. |
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Posts: 325
Location: Otsego, MN | I have the similar problem with my Mercury (2001, 60hp) and was advised by a few people and mechanics to change all filters in the fuel line as well as inspect for pin holes or leaks. Any crack, pin hole or leak could cause the fuel to not get fully primed and actually bleed back into the tank so your motor wouldn't get sufficient fuel. I believe that is my issue as every time I trailer my boat the lines don't stay liquid full and I have to pump my ball several times. If your fuel filters are dirty the pressure drop across it is not allowing full fuel flow to the motor and will be very similar.
This is just my observation and recommendations others gave me so hopefully it helps.... |
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Posts: 243
| Was not an authorized Merc shop. Closest one is about 100 miles. Was hoping it was something simple and I wasn't going to be without my boat for a week mid-summer. Appreciate the suggestions. |
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Posts: 5874
| When you first start it, and then it dies, do you have to pump the bulb again? If not, try pumping the bulb after you first start it, and before it dies. Does that help? |
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Posts: 243
| Thanks, Shep. Have tried to pump the bulb, but it hasn't helped and the bulb is hard. Into the Merc service techs next week....hope it's a quick/easy/cheap fix! |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
When you are starting it up is it smoking to beat the band? Was doing a bit of reading on issues similar to yours and I wonder if you have a needle and float sticking behind the efi, which could lead to an engine that is getting too much fuel and essentially flooding as you are trying to start it.
I am not familiar with the efi 2 stroke engines of that vintage and would assume there is a throttle advance you can do as well? If so, it also makes me wonder if the idle timing might be off a touch. I had a Johnson 50hp that would die on me at the dock and was hard starting. Took a timing light to the first plug wire and found my timing was retarded quite a bit...made the adjustment and it popped to life both cold and hot...
Steve |
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Posts: 1087
Location: Hayward, WI | Things to check: other than normal compression, spark and fuel supply
TPS setting along with full sync and link
fuel pressure
MAP sensor fitting not plugged
Temp sensor on head and on intake reading properly
Have injectors tested and cleaned
If all else fails try swapping a known good ECU if you can find one |
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Posts: 243
| VMS - 8/2/2014 8:16 AM
Hiya,
When you are starting it up is it smoking to beat the band? Was doing a bit of reading on issues similar to yours and I wonder if you have a needle and float sticking behind the efi, which could lead to an engine that is getting too much fuel and essentially flooding as you are trying to start it.
I am not familiar with the efi 2 stroke engines of that vintage and would assume there is a throttle advance you can do as well? If so, it also makes me wonder if the idle timing might be off a touch. I had a Johnson 50hp that would die on me at the dock and was hard starting. Took a timing light to the first plug wire and found my timing was retarded quite a bit...made the adjustment and it popped to life both cold and hot...
Steve
Not smoking at all and runs great once it gets some throttle. Former owner had an issue identified with the TPS....I'm guessing it may be a revisit of that issue. Will let you know what they say when I get it back from the shop. Heading in on Tuesday. Thanks again for all of the suggestions! |
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Posts: 51
| 3 cyl....? |
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Posts: 5874
| 2.5L V-6 |
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Posts: 51
| grow up... no three cyl will run acceptable...thus the question.... |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya wolfman,
I'm curious as to why a 3 cylinder engine would not run well. I ran one for a good 7 years without so much as a hiccup...
Shep responded to your question...not understanding why the harsh response to him. He's one of the top guns on this forum for info...
Steve
Edited by VMS 8/5/2014 7:53 PM
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Posts: 5874
| WOLFFMAN - 8/5/2014 4:58 PM
grow up... no three cyl will run acceptable...thus the question....
Really?
OP said it was a 135 EFI, which is a 2.5L V6. Thus, my answer.
My Yamaha 3 cyl 850 Special ran very smooth and acceptable.
Guess I could have suggested you you were simply a moron for either not reading the original post, or not knowing a thing about outboards. So glad I held my tonque, so as not to offend you. |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | Assuming the fuel filter was checked for water and that stabilizer was added to the tank. The mechanic would have checked all electrical connections right? You have good spark plugs and they are actually gapped right. After that it could be as simple as a pin hole in the fuel line bulb. My very first concern would be the fuel itself, I run non-oxygenated in everything I own , for a reason. The other guys can say what they want, but I have motors dating back to the early '80's that are still purring! |
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Location: Eastern Ontario | I think the wolf is rabid |
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Posts: 51
| someone else chiming in on on the post....thought it was a smart remark....just asked cylinders..been running threes for many years...run rough compared to even numbered cylinders....IMO...will stick to fishing...where i do know a little bit...sorry for the confusion... |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I would say you over-thought his response. Don't know how more plain a response can be staring what the size and cylinder count.
We definitely welcome you here, as the thoughts of each individual can be helpful based on experiences we have had with our specific engines. It gives the forum more insight as to potential issues someone is experiencing and supply some potential fixes or things to look into. All good people in here and we hope you continue to be a part of that.
Steve
Edited by VMS 8/11/2014 8:10 AM
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Posts: 5874
| Yes, What Steve said. Had one of those days at work, so was a bit quick on the trigger. |
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Posts: 202
Location: Angola, IN | Just change the plugs. It's the first thing you do any 2-stroke that's running rough, won't idle, hard to start, etc.
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Posts: 243
| Update....authorized Merc crew ran the diagnostics, communicated directly with Merc---swapped plugs, ran 4 hours of concentrate, changed thermostat and gave it a good one over. Result $430 later: Started first time off the trailer and ran great. Next four trips back to running like a dog with motor stalling out repeatedly trying to get it off the trailer and intermittent alarm problem continues. Ugh. |
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Posts: 2752
Location: Mauston, Wisconsin | Hi- Muskie Time, Try checking all of the wiring harness plugs/connectors and terminals. Sometimes service folks or previous owner(s) damage pin's etc. It also could be a screw terminal connection problem.. look at at both the male and female pins. Sometimes folks twist and pull on wiring harness plugs... They should be pulled straight appart w/o twisting. Twisting can bend the male pins and round out female pins. Also look at if all the pins are flush - seated the same in the connectors.. one may be pushed back- not propery seated in the plug housing, resulting in a poor connection. A magnifying glass may help, also look for corrosion.
Good luck!
Al
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Posts: 81
Location: NEW | There's another thing that has been a problem with some newer motors with a lot of electronic components, computer, fuel injectors and pumps, etc. At low rpms, the alternator puts out fewer amps and doesn't do a good job of powering these components. At higher rpms everything runs smooth. Could be just a bad battery. |
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Posts: 243
| Bringing this back one final time. Motor ran well on some trips through the fall, poorly on others with the same issues as previously described.
Service crew told me my motor has 450 hours and is considered "tired." Suggestion was to consider replacing it. I don't know how many hours you should expect to have on a motor before it tires out. Advice/experience? |
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Posts: 333
Location: menasha wi 54952 | It sounds to me like it is starving for fuel at low idle. Once you get it past the rough idle it runs good throughout the throttle band? When it is running good, take the cover off and manually set the idle for 1000RPms and see how she starts when she is asking for more fuel. I have the same issue when it is really hot out. I adjusted my rpms up to 1000 and now it will start 90% of the time on the first crank. What effect does giving it more throttle at start up have on it? You should be able to "Cold Weather Start" it without a rough idle issue. There are tons of simple things to look at before deciding that the motor is too tired. Did they give you any good reasons of why it is tired?
MR |
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