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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | My 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee needs a brake job, what kind of brake pads should I be looking at to stand up to towing a larger boat? I've got a Tuffy 1890 T. Trailer does not have brakes (well, it does but they're disabled and I have no intention of hooking them back up). I read mixed reviews about ceramic vs semi metallic. Can't imagine I need drilled and slotted rotors....
Thoughts? |
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Posts: 3472
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
On my last replacement, I went with a brand called "Power Stop Extremes". They are ceramic and you do not need slotted rotors... Once installed, they have you go out and "seat" the pads to the rotors....it'll give you directions on how to do so.
So far after 1-1/2 years on my 2500 truck, they have been awesome. no pulling to one side, no squealing, and they are holding up extremely well....although I don't beat on the truck either and am not hauling huge loads very often either.
Brake dust has been a non-issue with them as well. Much much less than the OEM brake pads that were on it. I have close to 40,000 miles on them, and they don't look like they've worn down much at all.
Steve
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Posts: 688
Location: Already Gone | Mike, this is a good question, as I may need a brake job soon on my 2014 F-150.
Those pads sound like a solid answer. Thanks Steve.
On another brake issue, I am also in the market for a new trailer for my Lund Pro V 1890. The Trailmaster trailer I have
is 22 years old and since the rig weight is right at 3000 lbs. the trailer requires brakes by law. Turns out the surge brakes on the existing trailer have never worked right, and would require $900 to fix. I'd rather invest in a new trailer, because I've heard that disc brakes are available. Like Mike, I'd rather not have the brakes at all...but I also don't need a lawsuit if an accident happens and the brakes are non-existent. Far fetched, maybe....but could happen. Any suggestions on a good new trailer with disc brakes?
I can go back to Trailmaster if necessary for a new one.
Edited by Mark Hoerich 4/25/2018 11:10 AM
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Posts: 3472
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Whatever you go with, I'd suggest getting bunks rather than rollers. Supports the boat better and it should go on perfectly each time as the bunks should line up against the runners on the hull.
I have had shoreland'r trailers in the past and have found them to be good solid trailers. I always go heavy when I can, so if you are at 3000 pounds, I'd go for a 4000 pound trailer or even a tad more. Gives you the wiggle room to put gear in there and not go over capacity.
I believe Eagle Trailers used to make custom for Lund and have heard nothing but good things about theirs as well. I've looked at them and they seem to be solidly built. You might pay a bit more for one, but it will be custom for your boat and color matched as well.
http://eagletrailer.com/oem.php
Steve
Edited by VMS 4/25/2018 11:29 AM
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Posts: 688
Location: Already Gone | Thanks Steve. I am set on another bunk trailer for sure, it's all I've ever had with my Lunds and I want to stick with that. Have you heard anything about disc brakes on boat trailers instead of the old drum style? If I have to have brakes on the trailer, I want to get the best I can find with less maintenance.
Sorry if I hijacked this thread into a trailer thread. It's all about brakes though. |
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Posts: 16632
Location: The desert | Hijack away...I took Steve's advice and picked up a brake kit for $375. Not bad considering I'll be doing these with help from a buddy so won't have shop costs tacked on top of that. |
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Posts: 3472
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi again,
Most trailers today I believe are disc brake in design. If it is not, the conversion to a disc brake is not incredibly hard to make as both drum and surge brakes have to be installed directly to the axle that has a brake flange made on the trailer (that little square portion behind the axle shaft itself)
I would think when you order the trailer you could specify disc brakes. They are a heck of a lot easier to maintain and service and honestly they will do a much better job.
Steve |
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Posts: 688
Location: Already Gone | That's what I want to hear. I wish I was under that 3000 lb restriction a little more than I am. Disc brakes it is.
Thanks guys....good deal Mike. |
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Posts: 482
| if you convert a drum to disk set-up the hydaulic master cylinder in surge unit needs more volume maybe a complete surge actuator . |
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Posts: 8722
| It's been a long time since I was in the business, but most of the brake guys I dealt with said that messing around with different pads is a big no-no. Pads are cheap, rotors are not. Add in the lower grade rotors found on many trucks and SUV's, all you're effectively doing switching to a harder pad is putting more wear on your rotors and ensuring a much more expensive brake job down the road. Whatever you choose, I'd still pull the rotors and take them to your local shop to have them turned. (Some shops won't do it if they're under spec.) Another thing to check is the "pins" on your calipers. The conditions we drive them in can result in the pins getting so mucked up that only one pad is hitting the rotor when you step on the brakes even if the calipers are in good working order. Simple clean/grease usually frees them up.
Whatever you do, it's a good idea to pull the wheels once every couple years and check everything out. Rotors should be shiny and smooth on both sides. Any signs of grooves or rust where the pads make contact is a good sign something is out of whack. Squealing or pulling to one side is a sign that something has been out of whack for some time. And if you ever smell burning brakes (unmistakable once you've smelled it once) or see any sign of smoke, glowing rotors, etc. that's a sign that says "Stop drop and tow"... |
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