|
|
Posts: 157
Location: West Central WI | I've been looking for this subject but can't find a thread. There is so much discussion and endless opinion on what rod brands, lengths, and stiffness are best for throwing a particular bait. Regardless of what rod you've used or the weight of the bait you've thrown, the money is made after the hook set and you bring the fish all the way to the net. My thought has to do with how loaded the rod is. For example, if your rod is "bent" 1-1/2 to 2' while fighting the fish, if it does a head shake or makes a quick turn, you have that much rod deflection to hold a tight line until you are able to react. With an extremely stiff rod, the deflection is minimized so a quick head shake or turn could easily produce slack line and shake a bait that hasn't been set into flesh past the barbs. What scares me is how many baits are left in the net as I turn to get my release tools, only to find them already free. My feeling is that the hook has never really been set deep and only because I played the fish with a good amount of tension and deflection, did the hook tip stay where it was - in other words, there was never any slack in the line and the hook tip didn't move even when not past the barb. The heavier the rod, the less forgiveness for these things and I'm convinced I've lost a couple while using my XH 8'-6" rod that I could hardly get to bend while playing the fish - of course, maybe those were small fish. I hope you understand my thread. I would like to see other opinions for best rod length and stiffness AFTER hookup. Maybe we're looking at this all wrong as long as we can get our baits launched by whatever means necessary. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1638
Location: Minnesota | My favorite
Attachments
----------------
 IMG_20160307_15328.jpg (22KB - 400 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 20183
Location: oswego, il | The bait is free in the net because the bait hooked the net, the fish thrashed and used that leverage to unhook itself.
All muskie rods can handle a musky. Equipment should be balanced correctly, rod, lure, reel, line weight ect. I even use a bass flippin stick to musky fish. Not an issue. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 386
| I would say that my light Bucktail rod has the best "keep the fish on" percentage. I haven't gone through my logs to verify, but I can only think of one fish that has gotten off in the past three years on my two lightest action rods. That being said several of the fish that have gotten off on my heavier power rods have been a result of mistakes made by me. I can only think of one fish that I don't think I made a mistake on, it just got off, for this past summer. But, using my limited data it would seem 8' to 8'6" mh to h action rods keep them pinned well. However, it should be noted I've still caught more fish overall on my heavier power rods.
As far as the net thing, if it's a lure with multiple hooks it's almost bound to come out in the net unless you are going to be cutting hooks. Once another hook gets into the netting it doesn't take much for the fish to get leverage. In my experience, lures with single hooks/single treble hooks are the ones I generally have to remove from the fish regardless of how well the fish was hooked. There's also those fish that have no hooks in them, they just refuse to let go of the bait until they're in the net. Those fish are awesome 
|
|
| |
|
Posts: 1209
| Agree the fish is getting leverage on the net, I know I can use xh but my dad who is 67 should not because he can't load the rod up like your describing. However for my dad, a mh rod that he can load up would be optimized with a hook that is thinner, easier to poke a hole in bone and he won't bend it straight like I may. Make sense? |
|
| |
|
Posts: 157
Location: West Central WI | Agree the fish is getting leverage on the net, I know I can use xh but my dad who is 67 should not because he can't load the rod up like your describing. However for my dad, a mh rod that he can load up would be optimized with a book that is thinner, easier to poke a hole in bone and he won't bend it straight like I may. Make sense?
Fishysam, I was okay until everything after "optimized" |
|
| |
|
Posts: 157
Location: West Central WI | For all those who replied, I see several logical points that were made. I don’t think it’s any one thing. I use single-hook slopmasters a lot because I like to pull fish out of the weeds. Every once in a while those baits come out in the net too. I am a believer that muskies are greedy eaters when they want to be and they simply bite hard and refuse to let go even when no hooks are engaged or only partly engaged during the set. I also agree that baits can be wrenched out of a muskie’s mouth when in the net for the reasons ToddM and FlyPiker stated. My goal with the post was to get opinions on muskies lost on the way to the net and to see if anyone had feelings that rod stiffness had anything to do with it (for or against). I’m getting ready to buy another rod or two around 8’6” and think that heavy action is the way to go because of the longer rod length. I do have one 8’6” XH bought at a sport show that feels like a 2x4 and hardly bends at all. I’ve parked it and it will stay parked because I’m convinced I’ve lost two fish because of the stiffness. Of course, that could be my technique too, but I have no confidence in the rod to give it more chances. With all the “odds” we have control over, rod stiffness is one of them so I want to make the right decision with my next purchases. I’m using the word stiffness in this post, but remember that in my original post, I was really talking about the deflection of the rod tip that can build in a lot of forgiveness when a muskie headshakes or turns abruptly. That rod tip deflection will take up slack to some extent until I have the chance to react so I look at that as an important part of putting odds in my favor with using the right rod stiffness. Muskyhunter47’s photo was priceless. It’s my go-to rod when fishing with my two small granddaughters. Anyone else wanting to weigh in on this is welcome as I like to hear other opinions about why things work or not. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 243
Location: South Central Wisconsin | They're muskys... It sucks, but the truth of the matter is sometimes it happens. A "loaded" rod can help keep them on but nothing is foolproof when it comes to these critters we've become obsessed with. I understand what you're getting at with your post, I just wouldn't over think it. Many muskys have succumb to H, XH, XXH, XXXH, rods. They will continue to do so. My advice, check your hooks and check them often. Make sure they are ALWAYS sharp. If you get a good hook in them, keep you rod "loaded", and keep them below the surface, there really isn't much more you can do. Good luck! |
|
| |
|
Posts: 401
| I know what you are saying and I agree with the logic especially with braid. There is just no place to absorb movement without having a softer tip. We work so hard to get hooked up with a fish that I hate not keeping them pinned all the way to the net. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 20183
Location: oswego, il | It appears you like to horse the muskies into the net? That can certainly work a single hook hole bigger thus it coming out once in the net since you are leveraging a single entry point. If any of that spinnerbait gets tangled in the net that can aid in its popping free.
Muskies hit lures in all sorts of ways. Not every hookup will be perfect, nor will every strike. If ypu horse a poor hooked fish, you will probably pull the hooks loose. I do not horse my fish. I keep pressure and let them do their thing in freespool. I prefer to fighf them all as if they are lightly hooked. It really does not icrease the fight time much.
As far as a rod goes, get a.rod.that fits what it is you want to do with it. That will always be the best rod choice. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 157
Location: West Central WI | ToddM, I don't know if I horse them or not. I certainly don't try to tire them out and build up a lot of lactic acid during the fight. Judging by the many others who have caught muskies in my boat, I don't think I do much different, but that's just the way I see it. I've also reviewed my GoPro videos to see what went right and what went wrong. I did see a couple of bad things I did along the way and have done some better rod work because of it. At least it's something to think about when the season opens. I just want to do everything I can to land them right and release them healthy. I still think that if a muskie is biting the lure with a lot of pressure, I may move the bait very little or not at all during the hook set. If that happens, the hook tip may not be engaged past the barb and that's the same as going barbless, which I'm thinking about trying this summer on one of my slopmasters. Thanks for your input. I always enjoy your comments to others. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 20183
Location: oswego, il | Well, that is part of it, muskies and their mood when eating. Sometimes they get the bait crossways and dont let go. Sometimes they swipe it and you hook them poorly, in the face or even the body. Sometimes they nip and you barely beak hook them. They can also hit and just not clamp down. Muskies are typically not great fighters. That is why i let them do their thing but they always give you good opportunities to gain alot of ground. My fights never last that long. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | It's pretty simple. If you aren't strong enough to set the hook use a moderate action rod and keep steady pressure. If you are strong enough to set the hook use whatever rod is appropriate for casting and manipulating the bait you are using. |
|
| |
|
Posts: 1425
Location: St. Lawrence River | The bait gets caught in the net, the musky thrashes, the the net ITSELF becomes the release tool. Isn't it ironic how this happens time and time again?.... just pay attention.
But then again, muskies do bite at you just like a dog would, learned all about it in another thread.
Hahahahahaha |
|
| |
