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Posts: 9
| Hello fellow fishermen!
I al looking for a new leader material for making my leaders.
Currently I'm using heavy fluocarbon (G-line from gamakatsu).
I'm starting to doubt on the strenght, not on the pulling power but the damage from the teeth!
I change my leader Every time it's getting damaged.
So I'd like to know what material you guys are using, also wich snaps because Recently a new mustad staylock went open..
Fluocarbon:
Pro's - > Visibility in clear water, easy to tie.
Cons - > Bite offs.
Titanium:
Someone suggestede the surfstrand 1x7 from wft because it has a little bit of stretch and doesn't break like single strand.
Pro's - > stronger and lighter?
Cons - > Visibility? Failure due weakness?
Wire:
Pro's?
Cons?
Grtz Jasper! |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
I switched back to solid wire for the specific reason you are considering. I had a really nice fish shear right through 180 pound Fluoro a few years ago.
since then, I've gone to straight wire leader material. They are so inexpensive to make and when one bends to a point of no longer being good to use, you can cut off the other hardware and reuse it.
I have also gone away from snaps and use split rings on everything now. With a split ring tool, it takes me just as long to switch out using them rather than a snap. Given the wire is thick enough, there is no worry about the wire working through the split ring and losing the bait either.
Safe, cost effective, and since switching, have not lost a fish due to a leader failure.
Steve |
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Posts: 112
| I like heavy floro leaders from stealth for casting and trolling larger baits (200lb). Bait size should also be considered- small diameter leader gets better action out of smaller baits. A material I don't hear too much about is 49 strand like AFW's shark leader material- I've been using it in 175lb to make trolling/casting leaders for smaller baits. And I 2nd the split ring system, too- have much more confidence in split rings. And definitely avoid the fastach style clips, seen them fail. |
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Posts: 3
| Good topic... I was just about to post. Hope you don't mind me adding question to the thread. I just started targeting Muskie this year. I'm using pre-made 12" Tyrant Tackle 90# fluoro leaders. The hardware is ridiculously big. I guess Musky aren't smart enough to recognize giant swivels and such? lol. I'm used to finessy bass and walleye fishing with clear line or braid tied to 3-4' 15# fluoro leaders.
Anyway, what do you guys use on smaller Musky lures? I guess some dudes are using 5" jointed rapalas on my lake. Kinda wondering what works best for smaller lures. I caught my first HUGE 28" Musky on 8lb Clear P-Line finesse fishing for Bass with a very realistic Fluke Shad. I swam that thing looking like a real dying minnow. He nailed it! Snapped off just as soon as I grabbed him. Was so lucky no to lose him with the bait in his mouth.
I guess they like flukes on my lake, but cant throw a 5" fluke with a giant solid wire leader. It'll present like a sinking Turd. Any recommendations for the smaller stuff? Thanks! |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
I don't have my wire in front of me right now, but I downsize my wire, and use smaller Spro Swivels. The split rings at times can have a tendency to allow the wire to start working it's way around, but if you check after every move from one spot to another, you'll most likely be fine.
I make them about 10 inches long when completed. I want to say it's fairly light...somwhere around the 95 pound range? It bends easy, but is still very very strong as the strength is based on tensile strength. After a bit, though, the bends in the wire weaken it (just like a paperclip you bend back and forth to heat up and break) so swtiching out more often is how I combat that issue...
Steve |
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Posts: 315
| I have had good luck with hard mono leaders in 80 or 100 pound test. I tie my main line to it using an FG knot and then tie a tarpon knot on the other end adding a stay Loc snap. My reason was that the hard mono seemed to be more abrasion resistant than flourocarbon. The flourocarbon I had seemed to be “softer” than the hard mono. I use this for everything but will add a swivel above the snap for buck tails. Tight lines.......TC |
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Posts: 9
| Yes indeed with cheap wire you can switch line very frequently, just caught a 41inch esox on the fluocarbon, did well, no problems but I hear enough stores like Steve his story.. Anyone here with expierience with multi strand titanium?
Grtz jasper |
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| titanium will fail without any visible warning. not something that i trust no more for musky |
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Posts: 82
| Those of you that have done away with any form of lok on your wire leader and split ring your baits on for security but now worry about the leader material working out of the split ring have you thought about Owner solid rings ? you will need a split ring (nose ring) on every bait but it’s near 100% reliable. Nose rings are essential with loks too, help avoid instances of a fish levering open your lok, it can happen. Floro can be bitten through but it’s about taking the big advantages that something has to offer and eliminating the bad part. I only Floro for trolling and then only with big baits ( big cranks ) therfore pretty much avoid any teeth contact, the advantages of Floro are its durability and it’s much kinder on a rolling fish. If a fish rolls up bad you may need to now worry about hooks coming into contact with your mainline. Nothing is foolproof ! 3’ plus floro leader too. |
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Posts: 3469
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I used the solid rings on my fluoro leaders when I made those but have not had any issues with my normal wire leaders with split rings. It's the really light ones I make and use through the beginning of the season that can, at times have the tendency to start working around the split ring.
I tried the them on my light wire leaders as well, and action was diminished along with a more nose-down issue when getting baits to be basically neutrally bouyant. So...went back to just split ring to the loop on the wire. So far so good for just a "few" years... 
Steve |
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Posts: 343
| I often use titanium on smaller baits. It is much less likely to "fail" if the bends are shrink tubed; otherwise the bends must be constantly checked for individual strands breaking. Titanium is more flexible so smaller lures have better action which can be a key at times. The wire is very tough to kink so leaders can last through a lot of fish, especially if a lot of small pike are encountered. Just my 2 cents; I've also been bitten off with flouro |
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Posts: 114
| I agree with many comments on this topic. IMHO, I believe the lure size and style dictate what leader should be used. Examples:
1. small jerk baits: split ring and light straight wire (90-100 pound test)
2. bucktail/spinner: either fluro or single wire with split ring or stay lock snap (wire 90 - up or fluro 130 - up)
3. trolling cranks or blades: fluro with either split ring or heavy stay lock snap (150 - 200 pound test @ 3' - 6' length)
I have to admit having lost a big fish when a snap opened (wish I was using a split ring that day). Also lost a fish when a lighter wire leader worked around the split ring (lesson learned).
Best of luck to you. |
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| imo the trouble is that the fish are not less prompt to cut your leader because you want a better action out of your lil lures. personally it is 200 lbs since years and will be 200 for years to come, even if it is a 5 inch wiley musky killer. out of question to killed a fish or to lose THE monster because i want a lil improvement on my lures. |
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Posts: 296
| 174 lb wire leaders and once in a while 200 lb flouro.
IMO. I frown on light tackle fishing for muskie. I've caught way to many muskie with other peoples terminal tackle and lures still attached to them. Its awful for the fish. Broken mono and sliced flouro leaders, etc. How many do we not catch again that die cause of this?
Light tackle accidental catches will always happen and can't be avoided. Targeting muskie with light tackle can be. |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | Stealth 130lb mono
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Posts: 5
| I guide on Green Bay, mainly trolling, but we do some casting too in the spring and summer. I use 100 lb fluorocarbon for my leaders, and I also use sleeves, never trusting knot strength are flexibility with heavy line. Most of my leaders are 6' in length for trolling or 2' in length for casting. I've yet to lose a fish due to a broken line or a failed sleeve. Capt Jerry. |
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Posts: 1969
| FireHunter551 - 6/4/2019 12:56 PM
Good topic... I was just about to post. Hope you don't mind me adding question to the thread. I just started targeting Muskie this year. I'm using pre-made 12" Tyrant Tackle 90# fluoro leaders. The hardware is ridiculously big. I guess Musky aren't smart enough to recognize giant swivels and such? lol. I'm used to finessy bass and walleye fishing with clear line or braid tied to 3-4' 15# fluoro leaders.
Anyway, what do you guys use on smaller Musky lures? I guess some dudes are using 5" jointed rapalas on my lake. Kinda wondering what works best for smaller lures. I caught my first HUGE 28" Musky on 8lb Clear P-Line finesse fishing for Bass with a very realistic Fluke Shad. I swam that thing looking like a real dying minnow. He nailed it! Snapped off just as soon as I grabbed him. Was so lucky no to lose him with the bait in his mouth.
I guess they like flukes on my lake, but cant throw a 5" fluke with a giant solid wire leader. It'll present like a sinking Turd. Any recommendations for the smaller stuff? Thanks!
Small stuff like a fluke , flies etc ... just need a piece of light solid wire and make a haywire twist with your fingers, for those two baits no swivel or snap needed..Break off the wire don’t cut it for a clean finish, light wire will need replaced often but is very effective with small baits... small spoon or buck tails make sure to use a good swivel. |
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Location: 31 | anglersplus - 6/13/2019 6:38 AM I guide on Green Bay, mainly trolling, but we do some casting too in the spring and summer. I use 100 lb fluorocarbon for my leaders, and I also use sleeves, never trusting knot strength are flexibility with heavy line. Most of my leaders are 6' in length for trolling or 2' in length for casting. I've yet to lose a fish due to a broken line or a failed sleeve. Capt Jerry.
If preventing bite offs is at least part of the reasoning for using the 100 lb. fluorocarbon for casting… do you think it provides more protection than just using a leaderless 80 lb braid? |
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Posts: 1969
| Jerry Newman - 6/13/2019 9:21 AM
anglersplus - 6/13/2019 6:38 AM I guide on Green Bay, mainly trolling, but we do some casting too in the spring and summer. I use 100 lb fluorocarbon for my leaders, and I also use sleeves, never trusting knot strength are flexibility with heavy line. Most of my leaders are 6' in length for trolling or 2' in length for casting. I've yet to lose a fish due to a broken line or a failed sleeve. Capt Jerry. If preventing bite offs is at least part of the reasoning for using the 100 lb. fluorocarbon for casting… do you think it provides more protection than just using a leaderless 80 lb braid?
No question!!! 20lb flouro is more bite proof than 80 braid....thousands of pike to prove what is bite proof and what is not. |
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Posts: 5
| In my opinion, the 100 lb Seaguar Fluoro leaders I use are superior to the braid, when it comes to leader material. I go through my leaders before I put them in the water, and some of them are older than a year. They are very abrasion resistent, and last a long time. Capt Jerry |
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Posts: 426
| I've had the double crimped ends of titanium jerk bait wires come apart twice. The crimped end just slid off and ended up on the main shaft of the leader. For that reason I now use wire with a hay wire twist!! |
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Posts: 441
| I tie my own 80 pound fluoro leaders and never had a bite off. Tie leader directly to braid, and fluoro to a heavy barrel swivel and split ring. Never had one fail.
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Posts: 479
Location: Northern Illinois | I have had 100# floro, then subsequently 130# bitten off. No more floro for me. |
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