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Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [30 messages per page] Muskie Fishing -> Lures,Tackle, and Equipment -> foam filling leaking baits |
Message Subject: foam filling leaking baits | |||
WvRiverMusky |
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Posts: 132 Location: WV | any ideas for this. got tons of sinker plastic cranks. herd some drill a hole and fill with foam. And if so wonder what kind of foam, just great stuff? | ||
jchiggins |
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Posts: 1759 Location: new richmond, wi. & isle, mn | Great stuff for sure. You can also drip liquid super glue in all the hook hangers of the leakers. | ||
jlong |
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Posts: 1937 Location: Black Creek, WI | A tip for using Great Stuff spray foam. Drill a small vent hole on opposite end of the lure as your fill hole. This will ensure even distribution of the foam. Beware that some lures have multiple compartments. | ||
tkuntz |
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Posts: 815 Location: Waukee, IA | As stated, Great Stuff foam is... great. It's the only thing that fixed my fleet of low quality Bucher baits that leaked straight out of the package | ||
WvRiverMusky |
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Posts: 132 Location: WV | thanks guys great stuff it is. gonna foam and glue some up. hard to believe how many sink out of the package and fill with water, I don't even complain about it anymore I'm so used to it. | ||
Jerry Newman |
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Location: 31 | I know the foam fix is standard group think for leaky lures but I've had some issues with it sometimes adversely affecting the action of the lure. If the lure is taking on water it’s normally part of my fish catching A team so anymore I only foam as a last resort. My first line of defense is to shake the water filled lure until I find the leak, drill 1 hole next to it and then let the inside completely dry. I squirt some superglue into the lure around the leak and let it dry 2-4 times. After it dries I plug the drilled hole with epoxy and put a couple more of coats of superglue on the outside of the leaky hook hanger (sometimes epoxy for screw eyes). I've repaired them by gluing from the outside only many times, and although this works in a pinch, I've had much better results gluing them from the inside like this for a single leak. | ||
horsehunter |
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Location: Eastern Ontario | Wood is good...no leaky | ||
Stealthski |
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Posts: 27 Location: Badger State | Anybody ever use clear fingernail polish to seal? | ||
happy hooker |
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Posts: 3136 | I've used silicone and taken a flat toothpick and pressed into the hook hanger openings and nose attachment openings and it's sealed them up | ||
Jerry Newman |
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Location: 31 | happy hooker - 2/8/2019 6:16 PM I've used silicone and taken a flat toothpick and pressed into the hook hanger openings and nose attachment openings and it's sealed them up
Good idea; I think silicone would actually work better than superglue for a hook hanger leak because it's flexible. The problem I've found with only repairing the outside with superglue or epoxy is that it simply doesn't hold up well when you catch your next fish or 2 on it. This can be a little frustrating because normally that lure goes right back in the water… only to find that it's leaking again.
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esoxaddict |
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Posts: 8717 | I've had some luck with 2 part epoxy. What gets me are the lures that fill up with water, and no matter how you shake them you can't get a drop of water to come out. | ||
NPike |
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Posts: 612 | The trouble I had with re-filling and or re-sealing leaky baits was getting the water out of the bait. No matter what I did once the compartments filled w water I could never get it all out. This resulted in baits that wouldn't rest horizontally "as per design". Don't matter for cranks but for jerk - twitch baits it can throw off the bite. Cause a big fish just plain but a hole(s) in it. Couldn't be those teeth could it. I usually re-balance most new jerk - twitch baits anyways. The majority won't rest horizontally or they sink or rise to fast (not suspend). I use lead strips, leaded weights and different weight hooks - split rings to get them to do this. A pain, it can make the difference. | ||
jlong |
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Posts: 1937 Location: Black Creek, WI | This link has a great photo of the 10" Jake showing its different chambers. https://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=18... "Great Stuff"&highlightmode=1#M133173 I'm sure if you do a search, you can also find a photo of X-Rays taken of many popular plastic lures like Depth Raiders, Ernies, etc. that also show their chambers to help determine how best to fill with foam. The archives here have a lot of this stuff already covered. | ||
jlong |
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Posts: 1937 Location: Black Creek, WI | Here is the link to the X-Ray photos I mentioned. Very helpful when trying to tap to either drain out water or for filling with foam. https://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80... | ||
Sidejack |
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Posts: 1080 Location: Aurora | Don't be afraid to pick up a tube of E6000 too. It's like a thinned out version of shoe goo. Waterproof, flexible, and holds up well. | ||
Martin79 |
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Posts: 34 | Bob smith 2 part epoxy from hobby store works well. I’ve taken a tiny piece of toothpick also for a plug with the epoxy around it and over it. On a smaller plastic lure that method doesn’t affect action. After doing some leak tests last fall with my jakes almost 100% of them leaked. At almost all the hook hangers, and especially around the lip. No problems after the epoxy. | ||
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