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Posts: 9
| Hey guys, first post and it's definitely a new guy one. So I apologize, but I searched and really couldn't narrow it down too much...
I'm making a dive and rise out of cedar and was hoping for a little help on the painting/sealing portion.
Do I need to do anything before I begin painting? I saw some videos of guys dunking the lure in a small tank with some sort of liquid. Not sure what it was but needed to ask.
OR
Do I just begin with a sealer then whatever base coat (airbrushing) i'd like, airbrush on patterns, then use an epoxy to get the nice smooth finish? If so, what's a good sealer and epoxy people are using?
Again, I'm sorry for a post that's probably been gone over a million times. But I've searched, watched videos, etc. and want to make sure before I start.
Edited by specialblend07 4/3/2018 12:17 PM
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Posts: 102
| thin out epoxey or sand & seal as far as the epoxey i use true coat |
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Posts: 9
| What's best to thin out the epoxy with, and is it a 1:1 ratio typically?
I also can't find anything on TrueCoat when I google search. Is there somewhere I can purchase, or read more about it?
Thanks for the help! |
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Posts: 102
| no set ratio just thin enough so that it penitrates. truecoat by true glide (joe peterson) on FB |
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Posts: 607
Location: S.W. WI | I am a part timer who uses what's avail at Hardware stores.
Seal the bare wood with paint thinner and epoxy. (the same epoxy as the finish coat stuff)
Or, use a sanding sealer on the bare wood. Can buy this at Hardware stores.
Finish Clear coats=.
Tru-coat, I have never used but hear about it. Not readily available.
Envirotex lite is a slow curing thick epoxy. May want a few coats of this. Never seals rock hard for me, but a lot of people use it. Its fine for this.. sensitive to mixing well and using exactly even amounts.
Devcon 2Ton Epoxy, not the 5 minute epoxy, but the 30 Minute type.
This stuff cures rock hard, crystal clear, but can be brittle.
good luck.
Edited by Rudedog 4/3/2018 9:37 PM
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Posts: 9
| Great help guys, thanks..
Is it easiest to brush on the sealer? Or is there another way to ensure a complete "seal" on the bare wood ie dropping in a bucket full of mixture. |
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| rougarou - 4/3/2018 1:14 PM
thin out epoxey or sand & seal as far as the epoxey i use true coat
that's as true as a repack of rod making epoxy |
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Posts: 556
| I use the sanding sealer on cedar all the time and it works great... Usually apply 3 coats sanding in between---leaves a nice finish for priming and then paint...I have used the DEVCON II ton and Envirotex and both have worked great---DEVCON is very easy even without a drying wheel.
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Posts: 71
| Since you are using cedar as you wood sanding sealer is good I use Zinzer 123 I also thin it out so I can spray my lures I might do 20 to 50 at a time, 2 coats and let it stand overnight lightly sand and ready to paint. You didn't say Red or White Cedar I think the red Cedar brings out the grain more than White. Other types of wood have other problems, but Cedar you don't have to worry about water as other wood like Bass wood it will swell once the water gets to it and crack the top coat even with a sealer.
Welcome to the world of lure making you are hooked now.
Wayne |
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Posts: 9
| Ok, so let me make sure I got this correct...
I CAN use the finishing epoxy (whatever I pick) as the sealer as long as I thin it out first? Or am I best to use a sealer, then use a separate finishing epoxy after painting? |
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Posts: 1039
Location: North St. Paul, MN | Find someone in your area that is building and make friends, fast. Then, see how he does it and take away any little nuggets you can. That's what I did a year or two ago with someone on here and it's been a game-changer. Think of it like hiring a guide. Sure, you can go out on a huge lake, throw lures all day and maybe get lucky. But, if you have the right teacher it ups your odds and cuts down on the learning curve!
And to answer your question - Yes you can do that. That's what I do. 1:1:1 Envirotex resin:hardner:denatured alcohol...that goes on first.
Then, after painting, seal with the enviro 1:1. Good luck and post some pics. Mine will be going up sooner, rather than later (I hope!). |
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Posts: 152
| If you really want the best sealer, cactus juice (brand) in a vacuum chamber. It penetrates the wood fibers. Not so good on cedar but excellent on hardwoods. All these other sealers do very little to truly seal. It's basically just a thin barrier with poor wood fiber penetration. |
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Posts: 1039
Location: North St. Paul, MN | Cool suggestion - cactus juice. What if the blank is heated in the oven at a low temp? I've done that and it seems to soak right in and gets good penetration.
Sudszee - 4/6/2018 1:54 PM
If you really want the best sealer, cactus juice (brand) in a vacuum chamber. It penetrates the wood fibers. Not so good on cedar but excellent on hardwoods. All these other sealers do very little to truly seal. It's basically just a thin barrier with poor wood fiber penetration. |
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Posts: 152
| That may help some muskyroller. Dry wood is key for absorption. The vacuum pump will greatly remove more air and gas from the wood. When pump is turned off after all bubbles stop, the resin is sucked into the wood replacing the air that was once in there |
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Posts: 9
| Ok, so I bought some TrueCoat and can't wait to try it. Just need a few more supplies first.
I'll be doing a 15" dive n rise. Large I know, but big baits have a special place in my heart. Plus they're fun conversation pieces.
What is the best way/tool to recess the eyes? A Forstner bit? Stop collar? |
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Posts: 1039
Location: North St. Paul, MN | forstner bit. |
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Posts: 9
| Awesome, thanks.
I was going to add a small lip to help the dive... I'm wondering if I should go lexan, or aluminum..
The depth of my cut is 13/16", the width is 1 3/8".. I just want a little extra dig when I jerk the bait, so I was thinking of having a lip made that's 1 1/8" long, so it'd stick out a little over 1/4".. Does this make sense to anyone??
Edited by specialblend07 4/10/2018 1:24 PM
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Posts: 815
Location: Waukee, IA | I use lexan lips on my dive rise baits. Really helps keep them from getting beat up on rocks |
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Posts: 9
| I actually having some aluminum lips being made, with a formed piece of aluminum welded to protect the upper "nose" and lower "chin".. I'll try and post a picture to show... Hopefully it works out, I should have them next week..
My next step is sealing, weighting, painting, etc etc etc....
Don't mind my crude drawing, I'm not an artist.
Attachments
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 Lip.jpg (78KB - 359 downloads)
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| what's the purpose of that face covered of metal ? doe's it change the action |
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Posts: 815
Location: Waukee, IA | It reduces damage caused by the bait bumping rocks. |
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Posts: 102
| i would place the lip on top of nose sticking out 1/4'' to start should take care of rocks because damage would be done on dive also easier and less expensive as you find the proper length of lip you can notch it in when you find the right length and blend in with paint and epoxey |
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Posts: 9
| Thanks for the questions and responses guys. The only real reason for all the metal on the lip was the thought of hitting rocks on the dive/retrieve. It's a learning process and I figured why not. If I do one, and it looks terrible, I'll scrap it and just go back to a single lip....
On another note, all my paint stuff should be in this week so I can start on that shortly. I'm planning on doing a walleye pattern first. Then I'll likely mess with foil tape/confectioners foil. |
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