|
 |
 
 
 
  Posts: 100
 
 
  | Hey-   
  
Need some experience and opinions.  I'm thinking about getting a manual jack plate but not sure if it's worth it?  I've done some research and it sounds like getting one might help with a better hole shot, increased engine performance, and maybe a tiny bit extra top end mph.  Just curious what set back and model/type people like on a similar boat to mine.  The wife won't let me buy a hydraulic jack, so that's out of the question, so just wanted to see if it's worth getting a manual.  
  
Thanks.  
  
My rig: 2013 ranger z117 w/ 115 merc pro xs  
Top end gps mph: 48.6 |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
  
 
  Posts: 81
 
  Location: Van Buren, Indiana | It would do just about everything you mentioned.  The only manual I could recommend is Hydro-Dynamics :   http://www.hydrodynamics-usa.com/     I put one on this '04 180 Lowe Stinger and it was awesome.  You can raise it to get maximum speed in tournaments or big lakes, and lower it on rough waters to get a better bite.  With the exception of the in-between boat I'm running right now (nursing school low funds Lol!)  every boat I ever own will have one on it!  Lets you wring every ounce of performance from you motor.  With Hydros you loosen four bolts and use a socket wrench to ratchet it up in 1/4" increments to the height you want then tighten the bolts back down. If your going say 1" above the pad then you move the bottom bolts up to the top.  This is the fastest thing next to hydraulic for way less money!  
  
Take a kid fishing they'll have a lifetime of memories!!   |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
 
  Posts: 218
 
 
  | I had the same boat and motor. I talked to 3 different people at Ranger, and each said that a jack plate would not help performance with that hull. Each said it would be money better spent on some other option. I got the same spped as you do and in general pretty nice performance. The boat both fishes and  handles well for a 17' hull. Ranger does not offer a jack plate as an option on the Z117 hull.
  Edited by Southshore 4/16/2014  6:40 AM 
 |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
  
 
  Posts: 81
 
  Location: Van Buren, Indiana | Ranger is not going to tell you to put a on a jackplate they would rather sell you a z521 with a 225-250.  Now their may be a warranty issue if you put a jackplate on that hull, shouldn't be but for the sake of argument (it was with my Stinger) if your going to own a boat 8-10 years and you want top performance then who cares. I wanted performance and I got it.   Its basic math and physics most motors are mounted in the top two holes from the factory or dealer which leaves the nosecone of the prop 5-7" below the pad of the boat. Meaning that with the boat running WOT you are turning all of the prop below the water decreasing your max rpm possibilities.  By raising it 3-4 in you are reducing the pressure on the prop increasing your rpm and speed.  Add a good stainless prop and your wringing about all you can get out of the powerplant on the transom       Hydro-Dynamics close the gap on manual to hydraulic compared to CMC and others.  It's not for everybody but for us performance junkies a heck of a lot of fun!     BTW  I am looking at the current Lowe Stinger HP180 they lower the max hp to 115 if I get one it will hav a Hydro-Dynamics 6" Rapid Jack Magnum on it !    |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
 
  Posts: 100
 
 
  | Thanks for the input and advice on the Hydro-dynamics plate.  I've looked at the TH and the CMC, but hadn't seen anything on the Hydro-Dynamics yet.  Def a good tip.  
  
Southshore- interesting to hear the Ranger reps making that comment.  Did they mention anything more specific as to why it wouldn't help performance or did they just move on?  As a side note, I agree with you on the boat...so far I love it.  Great ride, nice room/storage, and well laid out.    
  
Either way, great information and perspective. |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
  
 
  Posts: 3508
 
  Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,  
  
On the smaller rigs, a manual jackplate will do just fine.  I happen to have a cmc 4" manual set back, so my adjustments are made with the use of a floor jack.  The cmc manual jack plate you can adjust via bolt, then tighten up the outside lock bolts to keep things in place.    
  
In a smaller rig, having the ability to adjust motor height on the go is only going to be worth about 1 mph.  In most cases, you'll find the sweet spot you like and you'll lock it in and leave it.  
  
The benefit of the set-back:  it moves the center of gravity more to the rear, which makes bow trimming easier.  Also, by moving the motor back, the motor is running in cleaner water, which means prop hook up is better.  Then, when the motor is moved back a few inches, the hole in the water (or depression if you'd rather call it that) begins to fill in, so a higher motor height is possible.  There are limits to everything, though...get too high and slip increase dramatically, which is good for rpm, but speed will not go up..it will flat-line.    
  
Gains:  better prop bite, higher motor height (increases speed), less bow rise in some cases (trim under pushes bow down better due to center of gravity) and overall a more efficient running rig.  
  
Cons:  The installation of a water pressure gauge if you are above the mounting bolt-hole range of the motor.  If the water pressure falls below 10 psi, a fried motor will soon be in your future.  A steel prop is a must for any sort of jack plate, manual or hydraulic.  
  
My humble opinion...it is worth it if you like to tinker and play for the best efficiency out of your rig.  
  
Steve |  |
 |   |  |
 
 
 
  Posts: 218
 
 
  | Each person I talked to from design engineers to rigging supervisors felt that with the hull only being rated for a 115 hp motor, the improved speed and hole shot would be minimal. I spoke to them as I toured the Ranger plant in Flippin.They run tours every day which are open to the public, and they are very interesting. They all felt the Merc 115 XS was the motor of choice on that hull, and adding a jack plate would not improve speed or hole shot. They also did not think the boat needed a jack plate to ensure good handling, and neither do I.  They said a jack plate would be appropriate on the Z118 or Z119 for better hole shots and a small increase in top end speed. Two of the suggested spending the money on side scan or down scan sonar which I did. One extra mph is not worth much to me, and will not help me catch fish, but structure scan has helped me find fish.
  Edited by Southshore 4/19/2014  7:11 AM 
 |  |
 |   |  
  |