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Posts: 152
| Hey guys. I am in the middle of restoring my '89 Stinger (bad timing seeing is already April, but I am an accountant...so I've been busy the last 4 months). Anyway, I got the carpet tore out this last weekend. When I started ripping it apart, I already knew I had some rotten decking in the back by the rear seat. After I got further in and was ripping the carpet around the transom, some of the plastic drain tubes were broke, so I removed those. I noticed the wood on the inside of the transom where the train tubes were damp to the touch. The transom does not seem to flex or anything, but I am concerned the transom could be rotten too, or underway at least. Is there anyway to check this out for sure without getting in too deep?
Also, the very front of the boat previously had carpet running right to the front. When I ripped out the carpet, I noticed in the very front where the nav lights and the trollng motor were mounted there was nice painted fiberglass (similar to how the fiberglass is in the front of the boat on the X-170s). Thinking about leaving that exposed this time. Was this always carpeted from factory? |
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Posts: 152
| I checked out this old thread and got a lot of good information on replacing the floor for anyone else in the same boat, no pun intended.
http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=15...
I will post pictures soon. Also for anyone else considering taking something on like this, Wanda at Tuffy has been a huge help in helping me dial in my materials list and costs. Don't hesitate to give them a call.
Edited by Bucky_Musky 4/9/2014 8:15 AM
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Posts: 153
| I to am in the process of restoring a tuffy im getting I have to put a new section of flooring in and re carpet the whole boat also I am converting it into a tiller so know I have to find a 70 0r 75 hp tiller |
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Posts: 152
| Scope out craigslist. Theres quite a bit on there. |
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Posts: 153
| If i could find one with a bad cylinder I know a friend who could re build one for me for like 1500 bucks |
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | this link is good for prts like new drain tubes, cheap cheap
http://www.marine-products.com/parts/boat-hardware/boat-plug.html
this link has a product called CPES, will stop and prevent any more water damage to wood, have used this site myself, took 10 days to get my products even tho i was scared of there website, (my dad used this site 2 years ago, for CPES also)
http://rotdoctor.com/products/product.html
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Posts: 152
| Well, all of the carpet is out, got a new piece of 3/4 inserted were it butts up next to the transom. I cut out a piece of soggy flooring in the back. All of the styrafoam was completely soaked and holding moisture rotting the wood above it. Cut out more of that and removed the soaked foam for now. Drilled out the rivets of the gunnels so I could run carpet all the way up to the side without a seam at the bottom of the old gunnels and removed the capping on the back of the transom. Noticed the transom has rot on the top of it and the laminate wood glued together for the transom appears to be separating slightly. This may never end.
Has anyone else had similar issues to these on their rebuilds?
Stopping at Tuffy tomorrow to pick up the carpet, glue vinyl gunnels and check out the possibility of changing out my gauge panels.
Edited by Bucky_Musky 4/15/2014 10:10 PM
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Posts: 46
| You need to check out the "bassboat restoration" discussion on bbcboards.net. Lots of guys there have done what you're doing. It sounds like you should be concerned about the transom and general structural integrity of the hull, but with the right information you'll be able to tackle all of it. |
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | Almost all boats rebuilds go just like yours there is always more to do than expected. Like I said above the product CPES will stop all rotting and dry rotting from continuing up the transom, I would dry up the entire boat then Cpes the areas liberally wait for it to cure based on the charts and either add structure to brace the transom or fiberglass it all in with several layers of matting and resin, but it's not the end of the world, good luck keep us posted my boat is in the garage doing the same stuff and did my dads 2 years ago
Edited by samuwenn 4/16/2014 1:20 PM
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Posts: 152
| Question for the fiberglass or transom repair guys out here. I have got all of the rotten wood out and whats left is sealed up with wood hardener. I have about a knuckle deep gap on the top of the transom I need to fill with something to add strength along the whole top. Would you guys just recommend resin, hardener and something like West System 404 high-density filler, or what should I use to really strengthen that back? I need something that is basically pourable and will bond to both the wood and fiberglass to bring it all together. Ideas? I am not sure that packing it full of fiberglass will create the best bond between everything.
Thanks. |
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | Wet the area with resin plus at least one inch overlap to top and bottom then push glass matting into it then add a bit of resin to dry looking spots and repeat till it is in the crack as thick as the transom was, you need glass in the gap but you need layers and don't cut the "matting" tear it so that the strands remain random, many you tube videos to watch out there |
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Posts: 455
| Keep in mind the transom would have up to a 150hp as console. You are only using 75. My ranger has rot in the transom. Rather than pour epoxy in I just cut an aluminum plat the shape of the inner transom and bolted through that. Pluss a nice saver plate on top no problem. If you have access I would dry that sucker up pour in the CPE or whatever add a plate and be done with it. If you want a pro job contact Nowak in western PA. They do a real nice job replacing wood transoms. |
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Posts: 152
| In WI so, heading to PA for a transom is a no go. I just wanted to put it back together the best I could without removing the whole transom. I got rid of all of the rotten wood, ran fans on it for several days and then put on a petrifier to the wood last night to seal it up. I think I will try sam's method. I have read of people using the high density fillers with resin, but the fiberglass method sounds sufficient.
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | if you have room maybe adding either aluminum or wood wrapped in fiberglass " take from the highest point on the transom and go 90* perpendicular down at a angle and tie into a stringer" many higher hp boats do something like this, i know skeeters brag about there tourque transfer stringers in there bass boats
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Posts: 163
Location: NoDak | i am just a days work of work behind you in redoing my 2090 warrior (1998) and am super happy to say my flotation foam and transome are dry!!!! my dads 1994 warrior we had to replace the foam and that sucked. and yes any one who is gunna do a floor job should cut out a peice of foam all the way to the hull, the foam may feeel dry on top but a inch in it may be loaded up with water |
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Posts: 152
| Sam, I think the transom will be strong enough as is, but that is a great idea. I am sure most manufactures don't need to, but that seems like something that would be relatively "easy" to do in that manufacturing process that would not add much cost, or take much time. Besides having to redo some foam, for the most part mine seems to have dried up.I took some pieces of long steel tube and rammed then into the foam from the lowest part by the stringer to allow air to get up quite a ways. Plus it doesnt seem like a bad idea to have that small channel in there to give water a place to drain and run to the back of of the boat, should it get into the foam again. |
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Posts: 152
| I stopped at Tuffy a few days to get some parts and am stopping this afternoon again to get everything I missed on my 1st trip. Wanda was great with getting anything I needed. I also noticed all of the newer tuffys are wood-free with the exception of the glass wrapped stringers. It was pretty cool to see where they are all built. |
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