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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
I have an interesting "issue" so to speak on my console mounted HDS 5. Many times when I start the outboard, intermittently, the unit shuts off, then restarts...almost as if the motor is drawing the power way down. Here's the funny part, though... This does not happen on my bow mounted HDS 5 and both are wired to the back battery.
The only difference is the console unit is wired to a console power source that is not ignition related...
At times it won't do it, then other times it will. Very puzzling situation and it has me wondering about wiring directly to the battery rather than through a console power source.
Thoughts on the issue?
Thanks
Steve
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Location: Eastern Ontario | I believe they always suggest going directly to the battery with a fuse as close as possible to the battery ( not trolling motor battery for best results )
Edited by horsehunter 4/2/2014 9:21 AM
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Posts: 1202
Location: Money, PA | Mine does the same thing...PIA |
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | My initial thought is wire size. What size wire do you have running to the console unit and how many connections? One high resistance connection could be causing the intermittent problem. All wiring in boats should be soldered for the best possible connections with the vibration and movement the wire sees. |
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Posts: 319
Location: Tomahawk,Wis | Had the same problem last year.. Believe it or not the battery is going bad..
Got a new battery no problems..
Wally |
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Location: 31 | That is interesting because if I had to guess, I would think that your counsel unit would be the one wired to an ignition power source, and not the other way around, same with which unit shuts down. I don't think it's a straightforward weak/old battery problem because I have a similar issue using a brand-new group 31 Optima duel.
My issue occurs when I attempt to run all three of my 10” units simultaneously when I start my big motor. There is never an issue when I only have two of them running… it’s only with all three, and it's very consistent.
My quick and dirty fix is to simply shut off one of the helm units when I'm casting, and I obviously I do not run my bow electronics when trolling… but it's still slightly annoying. I find it interesting that all three of my units receive power from a dedicated fuse box at the helm with identical wiring/etc., and it’s always the same unit on the dash that shuts off as you describe, instead of the one far away at the bow.
I would consider two options:
1) Set up a designated fuse box under your dash for your electronics. It sounds like you could easily pull a heavier gauge wire to your dash using the back half of the wire from the front electronics. So, pulling the wire is going to be easy enough, then all you would need is a small fuse box and some electrical connectors... and then you can dump those PIA in-line fuses too.
2) Try increasing the size of the crank battery. IMHO, because only one of your units is shutting off (not both), it would outwardly appear that your existing battery is close to having enough reserve power to absorb the motor start surge. If you have a larger TM battery, you could swap them around for a quick test.
BTW: I have had a couple of experiences in the past when the electronics would shut off when I cranked up the big motor due to a weak battery, but reading how meticulous you are with your equipment Steve, I doubt that's the problem. However, it is obviously somewhat battery related... good luck and I hope this helps.
Edited by Jerry Newman 4/2/2014 9:34 PM
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Location: 31 | RyanJoz - 4/2/2014 6:09 PM
My initial thought is wire size. What size wire do you have running to the console unit and how many connections? One high resistance connection could be causing the intermittent problem. All wiring in boats should be soldered for the best possible connections with the vibration and movement the wire sees.
Good thinking! I'm going to check the connections on my "problem child".
Addendum: After giving it some more thought, maybe it's just the unit with the shortest wire to the battery that shuts off first?
I'd be interested to hear what an electrical expert has to say.
Edited by Jerry Newman 4/2/2014 10:40 PM
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Posts: 791
Location: WI | I would also isolate all electronics to a seperate fuse block wired back to the battery. Eliminate noise and surge or sag possibility. I would also agree that you probably are losing a cell in your battery and cranking is causing a sag to below 10v in which case the unit shuts down. |
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Posts: 233
Location: Iowa | I had this same issue until I ran a larger gauge single wire up to my accessory switch where I have my graph powered from. I thought it was my battery too at one time so I replaced it and still had the same issue.
I would start with upgrading your power wire first before you replace your battery, cant remember for sure but I think I went with 12 gauge.
Jeremy |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Battery is not the issue as it was doing this from brand new. Test of battery shows all is good. Also run a dual purpose and battery fully charged each night. Tried swapping batteries with same issue as well.
The unit is on boat wiring from factory. Will try a heavier gauge wire dedicated directly to the battery, but the odd thing here is my front unit is also on boat wiring, both with same color positive wire.
Gotta try something so wiring differently will be first.
Thanks and keep the suggestions coming.
Steve
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Location: 31 | If you plan to keep the boat for a while, do yourself a favor and install a separate dedicated fuse box with an on/off switch for your electronics/radios on the dash. I bet this takes care of that pesky “brown out” issue, and then you will have an expandable place to install future components.
Edited by Jerry Newman 4/3/2014 8:11 PM
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | Console vs. Counsel …
Edited by jonnysled 4/3/2014 9:25 AM
(nitroz-9cdc11_helm2.jpg)
Attachments
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 nitroz-9cdc11_helm2.jpg (51KB - 114 downloads)
Dr. Linda Freeman.jpg (127KB - 111 downloads)
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Can I get different councel?
That was good sled!!!
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| May/may not be a battery issue and I sure as heck make sure before I went and bought a new one. I had an issue with my dash HDS 10 cutting out when starting main engine too. One thing to absolutely check is the voltage drop for the sonar power supply when you start the engine. I don't remember exact number but dropping below a certain voltage will cause your unit to shut off. My issue ended up being my unit was wired through the accessory panel on my 620. The A1, A2, A3 accessory buttons each experienced a drop and can hardly supply power to anything. Even the cigarette lighter plugs, I couldn't run my spotlight through them they supplied so little power! I had to rewire into the main leads coming directly from the battery. There is a secondary circuit board under my driver console that distributes the power out to the accessory panel and such and I tied into this one for my HDS and a seperate cigarette lighter to run my spotlights at night. Works like a charm.
Edited by Esox1850 4/3/2014 1:19 PM
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Location: 31 | VMS - 4/3/2014 9:06 AM
Can I get different councel?
Yes, but be prepared that different counsel will likely recommend the conventional method. However, pursuant to seeking counsel for the duel console pictured above, I recommend duel counsel be additionally considered as part of your due diligence. I know this terminology is slightly confusing, but further explanation is needed because the duel counseling on two unique but different consoles sometimes get wrongfully confused with consel, which is neither of the aforementioned, and is in fact a program package that consists of small programs written in C language and calculates the probability value (i.e., p-value) to assess the confidence in the selection problem. Although CONSEL is applicable to any selection problem, it is mainly designed for the phylogenetic tree selection. CONSEL does not estimate the phylogenetic tree by itself, but CONSEL does read the output of the other phylogenetic packages, such as Molphy, PAML, PAUP*, TREE-PUZZLE, and PhyML. CONSEL calculates the p-value using several testing procedures; the bootstrap probability, the Kishino-Hasegawa test, the Shimodaira-Hasegawa test, and the weighted Shimodaira-Hasegawa test. In addition to these conventional tests, CONSEL calculates the p-value based on the approximately unbiased test using the multi-scale bootstrap technique. This newly developed method gives less biased results than the conventional methods. Hope this helps?
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Um.... Er...... Ah.... ABSOLUTELY!! |
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Location: 31 | VMS - 4/3/2014 3:56 PM
Um.... Er...... Ah.... ABSOLUTELY!!
If you read more than 3 lines I think I got ya...  |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I started laughing after the 2nd line, then read the rest just for fun.  Good laughs!!
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | nice punt jerry |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | sled... is that boat from England? |
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Posts: 13688
Location: minocqua, wi. | looks like one of the old dual center nitro bass boats |
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