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Posts: 186
Location: Waconia, MN | Hey Guys, just got a "new" (to me anyway) trolling motor and have noticed that when running at certain speeds I have interference on my depthfinder. Both the depthfinder and trolling motor are connected to the same battery, but have never had this issue before. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Posts: 1756
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | never connect the depth finder to the same battery as your trolling motor. All electronics should be connected to the cranking battery. This will most likely solve your issue 100%. |
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Posts: 186
Location: Waconia, MN | OK, sorry if this is a stupid question, but, if I have a deep cycle battery that runs my trolling motor, should I get the same for my electronics or is that overkill? I am not sure what you mean by cranking battery, thanks! |
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Posts: 5874
| Cranking battery is the starting battery for your main motor. If you are concerned that you'll run it low after a day of fishing, consider a dual purpose battery for you cranking/electronics battery. |
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Posts: 315
| better yet get rid of cranking all together and run nothing but deep cycle in your boat! |
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Posts: 5874
| lookin4_big_gurls - 10/8/2012 10:47 PM
better yet get rid of cranking all together and run nothing but deep cycle in your boat!
Not knowing what his main motor is, I couldn't advise that. Dual pupose is made for cranking/deep cycle apps. A pure deep cycle is not meant for cranking. The DI Optis and E-tech call for 1000 MCA, and I don't believe deep cycle batteries meet that spec. |
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Location: 31 | Shep - 10/12/2012 7:59 AM
lookin4_big_gurls - 10/8/2012 10:47 PM
better yet get rid of cranking all together and run nothing but deep cycle in your boat!
Not knowing what his main motor is, I couldn't advise that. Dual pupose is made for cranking/deep cycle apps. A pure deep cycle is not meant for cranking. The DI Optis and E-tech call for 1000 MCA, and I don't believe deep cycle batteries meet that spec.
Heck, for that matter, he could have a rope start? I have always used deep cycle for the main motor crank with no issues, probably not textbook... but I like the interchangeability and draw down reserve they offer over a crank or duel.
Found this on Deep Cycle Batteries:
Deep cycle gets its name from the ability to be discharged down to 80 percent (deep cycled) repeatedly without causing damage to the battery. True deep cycle batteries have the thickest plates and are used primarily in industrial applications for backup, or for solar power plants, where extended discharge times are most important. There is no problem using a deep cycle battery for cranking a motor, but it should have an ampere hour rating at least 20 percent above what is recommended for starting that particular motor.
Edited by Jerry Newman 10/12/2012 11:22 AM
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Posts: 32951
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | 'The DI Optis and E-tech call for 1000 MCA, and I don't believe deep cycle batteries meet that spec.'
'There is no problem using a deep cycle battery for cranking a motor, but it should have an ampere hour rating at least 20 percent above what is recommended for starting that particular motor. ' |
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Location: 31 | Right, I should probably do more research than just buying the largest maintenance-free deep cycles that will fit... but that's just the way I've been rolling.
Getting back to the interference, I do a lot more trolling than casting and had my electronics hooked up to the first battery in the 36 V to start the year with no interference from the electric motor. Kind of a long story... I ended up switching the electronics to the big motors battery and ended up with some slight interference on just one side of the structures scan only from the gas kicker... go figure.
Edited by Jerry Newman 10/12/2012 1:44 PM
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Posts: 5874
| May not have been electrical interference. I used to get feedback from the prop on my kicker when I was in deep water. Showed as vertical lines which coinceded with the prop digging in and loading up. Moved the transducer to the other side of the boat and problem solved.
Unless that statement about Deep Cycles has a qualified reference, I'd not take it as fact. I wouldn't ever use a pure deep cycle as the starting battery on my Opti. Haven't see one yet with 1000 MCA. |
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Location: 31 | Shep - 10/15/2012 10:13 AM
May not have been electrical interference. I used to get feedback from the prop on my kicker when I was in deep water. Showed as vertical lines which coinceded with the prop digging in and loading up. Moved the transducer to the other side of the boat and problem solved.
Unless that statement about Deep Cycles has a qualified reference, I'd not take it as fact. I wouldn't ever use a pure deep cycle as the starting battery on my Opti. Haven't see one yet with 1000 MCA.
I think you're right on with that hypothesis Shep, I'm probably wrong saying true interference, little dots on only the OB kicker side of the structure scan side imaging... everything else is clean. The transducers are already located on the opposite side of kicker, so there's nothing I can really do about it... it was a little baffling until we figured it out though.
Yeah, the deep cycle battery as a big motor deal is something that I have to take a closer look at down the road. Although I've never had a problem starting this Yamaha 250 4 stroke with the deep cycle, I have had all three HD 10s shut off simultaneously when I start the big motor (too much draw with the start surge I suspect). As long as I remember to shut off one of the 10s at the helm when I'm casting no problems though.
It's kind of ironic because part of the reason I went with the deep cycle instead of a true crank was some concern (minor issue) with the electronics/radio depleting the battery when I did a lot of casting. Like most things... just when you think you solved one problem, you just create a different one. Haha... this one I'll be living with for a while considering the cost of the battery.
Edited by Jerry Newman 10/15/2012 11:48 AM
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