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| I wish my handles were longer on my several st croix rods. How can this be done? Need some advise. Thanks |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | PM me I'm from IL also and I can do it for U. or email [email protected] |
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Posts: 38
| There was an article in Musky Hunter Magazine on how to do this. Step by Step instructions w/ pictures. February/March 2011 p. 22 "Modernize Your Current Musky Rods" |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | If you are close to PIKEMASTER give him a try. I have seen his work and he can do some really cool stuff!!!
If you are in the MidWest you can SpeeDee ship the rod to him for about $10 shipping too. At $3.50 a gallon....its worth it |
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Location: Sun Prairie, WI | pryan0225 - 11/29/2011 4:54 PM There was an article in Musky Hunter Magazine on how to do this. Step by Step instructions w/ pictures. February/March 2011 p. 22 "Modernize Your Current Musky Rods" Here is the article in email form from the author. There are no pictures to go with it, however. Hope this helps. Make your rods “Modern” Rods have really evolved in the past few years. Larger lures that cast harder are common, saltwater reels and baits that pull harder have initiated changes in rod design resulting from the needs of the modern angler. Rod models in the nine foot range with larger and longer handles are quickly becoming the industry standard among anglers who cast. Measured from the rear of the reel seat almost all older rods and the majority of factory made rods come with handles in the 11-14” range. After trying out dozens of models and helping design hundreds of custom rods for both clients and myself I have found that most anglers prefer handles in the 16” range. A longer handle spreads the distance of the hands during the cast making the push/pull motion of casting much easier. The push/pull style of casting loads the rod effectively so it does the work…not the angler. Another benefit of the longer handle is enhanced leverage on the hook set. A rod braced against the anglers side and pushed or pulled with the rod hand while using a turn of the body will generate far more power than the old “butt in gut” style of hold and hookset. Fatigue during the retrieve on hard pulling lures can also be reduced with the longer handle tucked up under the arm. Perhaps the most significant benefit is adding total length to a shorter rod…your ability to make a larger, rounder figure eights will improve and your back will thank you at the end of the day. Not everyone has the budget or desire to upgrade every rod in their collection especially quality rods that can still get the job done. Take your existing collection of old school rods and make them modern by adding handle length. Of course you can have a custom rod shop extend your handle but adding length is simple, uses basic tools and can be accomplished in less than an hour…plus you shape the handle to your own preferences and have the satisfaction of making yourself a better rod for the job. Tools: hacksaw with fine toothed blade, flat wood file and/or sandpaper, rat tail file Materials: epoxy, oak dowel rod, cork rings, and solid cork end piece or butt cap (photo) First cut off the end of the current handle with the fine tooth saw exposing the rod blank (P) Using sandpaper wrapped on a rat tail file or similar item lightly sand the interior of the rod blank removing any old epoxy or glue and preparing it to properly bond to the new handle. Choose an appropriate sized hardwood dowel rod ( I prefer oak) and sand or file to get a snug but not overly tight fit inside the blank. The dowel should extend 4-5” into the blank. Make sure you have enough total length of dowel rod to make the handle extension long enough. (P) Coat both the inside of the blank and dowel with epoxy, insert the coated dowel into the blank and seat it using a few LIGHT taps, DO NOT force it as you are looking for a snug fit, the epoxy will do the rest. The rest of the dowel should extend longer than your final handle length. (P) Ream out the inside of enough cork rings to fit on the dowel rod and provide the length you desire minus ½“…using five minute epoxy glue the rings on the dowel rod. Use light pressure or some weight to ensure the rings stack tightly while drying. (P) (P) Contour your handle, using a wood working file or 80-100 grit sandpaper reduce the diameter of the handle to slightly larger than the final size blending the extension into the old handle. Cork is soft and it is easy to remove too much so take your time with this step. Once the cork is close to it’s final dimension cut the dowel rod off flush with the cork. (P) Using epoxy glue the solid end piece of cork to the end of the handle then shape it to blend with the rest of the cork. Another option is to re-use the stock butt end. Sand lightly to the final size and you are finished with your modern handle. Cast, retrieve, figure eight…repeat until you get results |
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Posts: 582
| This is exactly why i don't buy st croix rods. When will they start to make longer handle options like everyone else? |
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Posts: 574
| jackson - 11/30/2011 8:01 AM
This is exactly why i don't buy st croix rods. When will they start to make longer handle options like everyone else?
Slit grips have close to 3" longer handles on them.. Glad I found that out after I bought a full cork big nasty..
Oh well.. Probably buying a predator this winter and I can pick how long "I" want the handle..
(I paid about $25-$30 to have a rodbuilder extend mine..) |
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Posts: 15
| The longer handles are one of the reasons for me to try to get James' rods to Germany.... |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | Jason Bomber - 11/30/2011 8:47 AM
jackson - 11/30/2011 8:01 AM
This is exactly why i don't buy st croix rods. When will they start to make longer handle options like everyone else?
Slit grips have close to 3" longer handles on them.. Glad I found that out after I bought a full cork big nasty..
Oh well.. Probably buying a predator this winter and I can pick how long "I" want the handle..
I wonder if the split grip is longer or shorter ??? take a solid handle and match it up to the split grip from the reel seat, is the split grip shorter that way by 3 " ?????
I would take a solid handle rod then and have someone extend, that way your rod is 3" longer from the reel seat then a split grip.
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Posts: 574
| PIKEMASTER - 11/30/2011 9:53 AM
Jason Bomber - 11/30/2011 8:47 AM
jackson - 11/30/2011 8:01 AM
This is exactly why i don't buy st croix rods. When will they start to make longer handle options like everyone else?
Slit grips have close to 3" longer handles on them.. Glad I found that out after I bought a full cork big nasty..
Oh well.. Probably buying a predator this winter and I can pick how long "I" want the handle..
I wonder if the split grip is longer or shorter ??? take a solid handle and match it up to the split grip from the reel seat, is the split grip shorter that way by 3 " ?????
I would take a solid handle rod then and have someone extend, that way your rod is 3" longer from the reel seat then a split grip.
Yup, I layed mine down next to my friends split grip model reel seat to reel seat... and his handle was considerably longer...
Funny how I was complaining about not likeing my rod while he said his was great before we noticed..
You can see in the pic from off their site how much difference there is.. REALLY wish I had seen that pic (Not sure if the pic was up last year?) before I bought the shorter handle full cork model..
Attachments ---------------- tournWall_handle.jpg (47KB - 419 downloads)
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| Jason Bomber - did you notice when you laid your solid-handle rod next to the split-grip rod if both rods were OVERALL the same length? (If the split-grip rod has 3 extra inches on the handle, are those 3 inches subtracted from the tip? -- is the distance from reel seat to tip the same on both?) thanks in advance! |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | Overall they are the same length. Same blank. Reel seat is positioned higher up the blank on the split grip. |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | Flambeauski - 12/1/2011 3:58 PM
Overall they are the same length. Same blank. Reel seat is positioned higher up the blank on the split grip.
So on the the solid handle rods U have 3" more rod from the reel seat then on the split grip handle rod. I wonder how they can say they are the same length ????? |
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Posts: 1716
Location: Mt. Zion, IL | The space in front of the reel seat is shorter on the split grip. |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | Every rod manufacturer I know of measures butt to tip, not top of reel seat to tip. |
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Posts: 2384
Location: On the X that marks the mucky spot | I've been having Thornes extend my rods for years. I think it's only something like $5ish an inch so not too bad when you consider you're buying a Croix for somewhere in the $300 range. |
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Posts: 620
Location: Seymour, WI | Is there anyone in the Green Bay/Appleton area doing this work? I'd like to have a couple extended. |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | Give Buzz (B&B Custom rods) a call. 920-748-9400 He's in Ripon. |
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Posts: 531
Location: Hugo, MN | I picked up a brand new Big Nasty with the solid handle this year. I couldn't beat the price at 40% off, but the 14" handle was virtually worthless on a 9' rod. I had Thorne Bros add 3" to the handle for about 20 bucks. Now I have the extra handle length AND the extra 3" in front of the grip compared to the split grip version. Best of both worlds and I'm into it for 225 bucks, not 400 like a custom rod.
Btw, the Big Nasty blank is fantastic! |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | That is how I look at it the solid handle Big Nasty rod is a 9' rod and the split grip Big Nasty is a 8' 9" I also think the solid handle B/N has a little stiffer action, not much but alittle. |
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Posts: 38
| I'm no Engineer or Physics major....but how does extending the rod in the butt section improve casting distance, figure eights, etc.
Example ; If I add 4" to my 6'3"' St. Croix Premier Jerkbait Rod that won't make it the as if the rod was 6' 7".
I don't use the foregrip section much for working the lure, etc. Prefer instead to palm the reel.
My thinking - which may be totally off base - is that extending the base might make it more comfortable but doesn't enhance the rod performance in some of the other "categories" that we use when selecting a rod.
Pat
Brookfield, WI |
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Posts: 574
| pryan0225 - 12/4/2011 10:39 AM
I'm no Engineer or Physics major....but how does extending the rod in the butt section improve casting distance, figure eights, etc.
The farther your hands are from each other the lighter your bait feels when casting it.. Meaning longer handle = easier to cast.. Makes the most difference throwing pounders and other large baits, but after having 1 rod with a longer handle its hard to use a short one again.. Even for lighter topwaters.. |
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Posts: 908
Location: South-Central PA | If you are thinking of extending the handles on one or more of your rods and you are following the directions that GTP888 posted, allow me to add a few comments.
First, do yourself a favor and go find a graphite golf club shaft to use, not a wooden dowel. They can be had for cheap or free and work much better. They will be lighter and will flex just like the rod blank, a wooden dowel will not flex and you run a greater risk of splitting your rod blank butt.
Second, before you insert the golf club shaft (or wood dowel) into the rod butt, remove about 3" of the cork rings from the end of the handle and clean the blank by scraping it with a razor blade held perpendicular to the blank. When you have the blank scraped clean, wrap the 3" section with thread and then coat with a very thin layer of epoxy. This will keep the blank from splitting out and exploding in your hands when you apply hard pressure. Finish by adding the cork rings as described above by GTP888.
Making these two minor changes will greatly reduce your chances of splitting your rod butt which is not cheap or easy to fix (if it can by fixed).
jeremy |
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Posts: 716
| That was the text from my article quoted above, while I have never had a failure using oak for the small extensions we are talking about graphite is not a bad upgrade...they key is to use plenty of epoxy and tap in for a snug but not tight fit making the whole thing one piece....spliting the blank would be BAD. There is a significant leverage advantage to adding length for casting, working the figure eight and setting hooks...try choking half way up your current handle no matter how long it is and you'll see.
16" from the back of the reel seat seems to be a really good length for almost any application, all of my Thornes demo's from glider rod to bucktai and big rubberl rods are built to that spec and they seem perfect for almost everyone and anything. I have seen some longer handles but most people have trouble with the ergonomics unless they are sasquach sized once you get past 16". |
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| Thanks to all for the advice....Outstanding responses, emails and a couple pm's and phone calls. I am not critical at all of St. Croix rods. I love em. I own multiple models for all kids of fishing. What caused this is that I just used a freinds custom built ($$$) rod that was the cats meow that prompted me to want to modify my own exisitng rods. Will let you know how they work when done with the modifications. Thanks again. |
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