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Posts: 512
| The questions about this boat never ends! Sorry. I finally got to take the boat out, and i think it has the wrong prop on it, but not sure because ive never had this problem. It seems the boat peels out or slips sometimes, so im guessing this is cavitation and is being caused by the wrong size propeller? Didnt seem to get on plane very well either. The water splash was about half way up the boat, unless thats normal for this boat, i dont know. I thought when it was on plane most of the boat should be out of the water..
So.. once again, any thoughts would be appreciated..
seems this boat/trailer wasnt set up worth a crap!!
thanks
Dave |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Half way is good on that rig. Sounds like you may be over-revving or the motor is too high...take a picture of the motor and mount and post it and get the numbers off the prop. |
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Posts: 437
| The holeshots could be caused by a couple issues: motor not trimmed down all the, wrong prop or motor mounted too hign in the transom (which hole is it mounted in?) Once on plane does it "slip" when turning or going straight?
If you are working the trim correctly it is either wrong prop or motor mounting location. Changing the prop may gain you holeshot, but you will lose some top end (possibly). You just want to be careful to not overrev the motor on top.
You should be able to contact a dealer and they will be able to tell you optimum setup for that boat with your motor, as in hole location and prop. |
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Posts: 512
| I noticed it taking off, and again while turning..
its bolted in the second hole from the top.
Dave
Edited by Dave T. 8/23/2011 10:36 AM
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Posts: 512
| ya, it did get over 6000 rpm, think its supposed to be 4500-5500 wide open.
The prop says 13x19 on it, and here are two pics.
Dave
Edited by Dave T. 8/23/2011 11:42 AM
Attachments
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 motor 001 [].JPG (89KB - 151 downloads)
motor 002 [].JPG (106KB - 124 downloads)
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Posts: 437
| Operating RPM is 5000 to 6000 RPM so as long as you are under 6000 you should be OK.
Did you have the motor trimmed all the way down when trying to holeshot? The mounting location appears correct. |
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Posts: 512
| i believe it was all the way down, doesnt have a trim gauge unfortunately.
and it says operate between 4500 and 5500 full throttle in the manual..
Dave |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | If you are hitting 6K with any load, you can go to a 14 or even 15. You should lose about 250 RPMs per number up in pitch. Height looks good. |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | If you are hitting 6K with any load, you can go to a 14 or even 15. You should lose about 250 RPMs per number up in pitch. Height looks good. |
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Posts: 512
| ya, i think it might of went over 6 actually, will run it once more to double check..
Will changing props help with the cavitation/ventilation issues as well?
thanks Steve, did ya stick any skis up there yet??
Dave |
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Posts: 437
| Sorry Dave, I was looking at the 115 when I gave you those numbers. You are right with RPM ranges. It is 4500 to 5500. What seems odd to me is that you complain of holeshot and cavitation. With the RPMs you are pulling you should go up in prop to reduce the top end, but that would make your holeshot worse.
I bet your motor wasnt all the way down. Mine doesnt have a trim guage either, just keep trimming and the sound changes to a squeel when its all the way down. Then hammer on it out of hole, watch those RPMs all the way to top end. It should never hit the numbers you are talking about.
Here is a link to the suzuki specs for that motor (scroll down to 90, I looked at 115 first time).
http://suzukimarine.com/sr_07/df115-90/features/
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Posts: 512
| so 13 is the pitch number on my prop now? (13x19), nope, just looked it up. 19 is the pitch.. so now im confused. steve said run a 14 or 15, so go with a bigger diameter prop?
Dave
Edited by Dave T. 8/23/2011 1:44 PM
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Posts: 437
| I am not an expert by any means on props, but I think you have to stay with the 13, but you could go to a 20 or 21 pitch prop. This will reduce RPMs, but hurt your holeshot. I have a 150 suzuki and my prop is a 15 inch prop. Not saying your's is wrong, cuz I dont know for sure, all I could find was pitch. |
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Posts: 117
Location: Northwest Wisconsin | I had a problem with over revving this spring and changed from 18 pitch to a 21 pitch on a 75hp Mercury. I did lose 2mph top end but not enough to really notice a difference. |
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Posts: 512
| Now when you say over revving you are referring to the slipping/cavitation issue i spoke about earlier?
And what if you get a new prop, and it doesnt fix it, or you need an even higher pitch, then youre stuck with it and have to buy another prop?
Dave |
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Posts: 437
| Here is what I would do and what my dealer would do for me. They let me try the boat out with various props before buying them. I say take it to the water, make sure its trimmed all the way down and see how it reacts for holeshot. It shouldnt cavitate and no prop change will fix that.
I was searching online and I found some other guys with that motor that were running the same prop as you. I think it may be the right one, but you could go to a 21 to bring your RPMs down. If operating RPM is 5500 and you are over 6000 thats not good. |
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Posts: 512
| Different props wont help the cavitating? Then the slipping im feeling could be something else possibly??
i do need to get the rpms down, but i also want to solve the slipping problem as well, i didnt care for that at all
Dave |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Sorry, I thought the prop was a 13. What horsepower motor is this? it makes little sense you'd need a 20 pitch or 21 unless it's a higher HP small block. |
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Posts: 512
| Its a suzuki 90 h.p. four stroke..
Just never had a boat do this that i remember.. seems odd to me.
I hope its nothing major and it is cavitating/ventilation.
Dave |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
That motor will turn a pretty steep prop because the gear ratio is 2.59:1. I would suggest finding a good steel prop. What I would bet is happening is the prop is not pitched enough, or worse yet, the hub on the prop is spun out and not functioning. If the hub is spun, it might catch a little then it might not, but if you have been able to get up on plane, but not very fast, I would think the hub is fine. If the prop is under-pitched, it will be slow, and with your rig, you should be able to get the side-spray further back without issue and get more of the boat out of the water altogether.
That motor should have no problem turning a decent 13 x 21 steel prop and still get good hole shot and good top end. A demo prop program would be a great thing if you can find it, although many dealers require you make a purchase, so it can be a bit hit-and-miss...
The other option which I have utilized quite a bit is ebay... lots of props on there and some really great deals as well..
Steve
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Ohhh, a Suzi. Different gear ratio. VMS is correct. |
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Posts: 512
| Yep, i ran it pretty fast so i dont think it is the hub, had it up over 40 m.p.h. before the speedometer stopped working.. thats another question i have, i couldnt find the sensor for the speedo, i found a small hole in the lower unit in front, is that the speedometer sensor?
I have never purchased a prop, so i will check ebay, and see what i can find..
Are props engine specific, or are they universal?
thanks a bunch again guys
Dave |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
Props are actually boat and motor specific in that no two boats with the same motor will act exactly the same way..so...finding the right prop for what you want your boat to do is a matter of trying different ones. Usually what happens after some testing of different props, one will stand out and perform the best for everything, including hole shot and top end, along with good handling. The right prop will allow the boat to just float along at cruising speed (not wide open) and handle without any issues.
Most larger motors have a tube that runs out of the lower unit (usually close to the front of the lower unit by the shift linkage if you can see it). There is a hole below the cavitation plate that it will go to (which is what you found), then that tube goes up to the speedometer. Most of the time, the speedometer set up to work via water pressure is not extremely accurate and can sometimes be quite a bit off...so a GPS will give you a more accurate reading on what is really going on.
Pretty big learning curve isn't it... 
Steve
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Posts: 512
| So the prop will be specifically for a suzuki DF90? Or will any 13x21 work on this motor?
And there is supposed to be a tube going into that hole i found? I hope not, cause its gone! or is the tube inside the motor? I dont understand why it stopped working, unless some weeds plugged it up maybe?
Ive had a lot of boats, but this one has been schooling me!
just found this parts list for the motor, and it calls for a 3x14x19 prop. just keeps getting weirder. why would it call for a 14, and what is the 3 for?. opps found it, 3 blades.. also has 17,21, and 23 as options..
heres the link to the parts page.. http://www.danssouthsidemarine.com/assets/layouts/main_layout/parts...
its on page 35, didnt realize it would load the whole book!
thanks Steve
Dave
Edited by Dave T. 8/23/2011 9:09 PM
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
The 3 is for the number of blades, the 14 (first number) is the prop's diameter in inches, and the 19 (last number) is the prop's pitch in inches (theoretically, the prop would push the boat 19 inches in one full revolution, but the prop must slip so it is usually a little less than that)
The prop must match the hub for your particular engine. The diameter and pitch can change, along with blade design, which is what you get to play with when trying to find the correct prop for your particular rig. Your lower unit shaft will have a certain amount of splines which must match the hub of the prop in order for it to fit.
So... in quick review: the hub of the prop must have the same number of splines as the shaft in the lower unit (i.e suzuki specific for your motor size), the first number is the diameter, the last number is the pitch. Blade geometry/design plays a huge role in the function of the prop, so it must be considered in order to get the best prop for what you plan to use the boat for.
Questions are a good thing... helps the learning curve for you, and for many who are also following the thread.... So, ask away as you feel need...
Steve
Edited by VMS 8/23/2011 9:25 PM
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Posts: 512
| Thanks Steve, i appreciate it.
Well i wonder why i have a 13 inch diameter prop on there now, when the parts breakdown for that engine calls for a 14?
maybe that is part of the problem also?
Ill get this figured out someday!!!
thanks again, i just wanna drop the boat in and go fish!!
Dave |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
If the diameter is too small, the prop will spin more freely as well... 14 x 19 is just a standard size... If you go to the suzuki outboard website, you can download the different prop sizes that will fit your motor, but keep in mind these are just suzuki brand props. There are many aftermarket props out there that are designed to fit your motor as well...in fact, aftermarket props are in most cases cheaper than OEM props.
When I looked at the chart, a 14" diameter prop is what the majority of the props are with a 13-1/2 x 15 as the smallest size.
So..knowing the diameter should be around 14, I would say a 14 x 19 would be a good start... Your motor is going to have a bunch of power with the gear ratio...
Steve
Attachments
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propellers.pdf (177KB - 468 downloads)
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Posts: 512
| Thanks again Steve.
i was looking for that page!
Hopefully i can find a good aftermarket one..
im also going to put a hydro wing on it, i have on all my other motors,
and maybe that will help as well
Dave |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
With the right prop, the fin is not needed. In my humble opinion, a fin is a band-aide for an incorrect prop on the motor, and is primarily used when a boat is under-powered. Your boat is maxed out, so a fin will only slow you down. When the boat is on plane and set up correctly, the cavitation plate should actually be OUT of the water, so the fin would be doing nothing for you...
I am running a Johnson 90hp that is up a few inches off the transom, and no fin is needed...grabs like a son of a gun with the right prop on it.
Steve |
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Posts: 395
Location: NW WI | My .02...and random thoughts...
Dave - where do you live?
Before you start dropping $$ on props, somebody like a VMS or any knowledgeable guy should go visit Dave and take his rig for a ride and provide input from there. It sounds like you're throwing darts right now.
Where is your dealer in all of this? Do I recall that you bought the boat some distance away from you?
If the gear ratio on that motor makes so much torque, would you want to run a larger diameter prop and also a stainless steel prop? Start with a larger diameter then dial in the pitch from there?
VMS is right on the fin....don't do it. Spend the time to get this thing propped right. Is the boat maxxed out on HP?
Invest the $$ and have a trim gauge installed. IMO - no boat with trim/tilt should be without it.
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Posts: 512
| Unfortunately i dont live up north in prime musky territory. i live in northwest indiana, chesterton to be exact..
I bought the boat from a private seller, who bought this boat in minnesota, so yes this dealer is far away. i am going to send them an email to ask them about the motor. They obviously didnt set this boat up at all.
It does call for a 14 inch prop on most sites, not sure why it has a 13 on it now, so was thinking a 14x21 stainless..
The boat is also maxed on h.p. at 90.
I also was thinking of getting a trim/tilt gauge, i thought the boat came with one..
thanks
Dave |
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Posts: 437
| Dave, I have a Suzuki as well (though a 150) and the inlet hole for the speed had gotten plugged a couple times by weeds or some wood causing it to not function at all. Comparing it to GPS, it is a few MPH faster (meaning GPS reads a lower MPH) than the guage on the boat.
What I did to clean mine out was disconnect the hose, its a clear hose and there is a splice at the base of the motor right where all the cables come out of the engine. Pull that apart there. Then take a VERY small drill bit or if you are lucky enough to have a dentist pick poke that in the inlet hole at the base of the lower unit to loosen up what might have gotten in there. Then using some compressed air (do not pump up over 20PSI) blow into the line toward your speedometer. You should be able to see your guage go up. Then blow back toward the motor, hopefully whatever got in there blows right back out.
You cannot see any hoses other than where they come out of the front of the motor by all the cables. Everything else is inside.
When you said you at a 13 inch prop I was surprised because that seemed extremely small to me, but I dont have that motor. I was thinking a 14 would be much better and it looks like you have found some info to support that.
I believe the 90/115/140 share the same engine block. Not 100% sure, but I know the 115 and 140 do.
I would bet with the right prop and GPS you would be in mid to upper 30's for speed. My buddy has the same boat (with a full windshield) and he gets 34 MPH. He has a 90 Yammy or I would ask what prop he has on it, but it wont really correlate for you.
Do not put one of those wings on there, they really dont work provided you put the right prop on.
I did a quick search on Ebay and found two 14 x 19 props. $160 ish. The Johnson 4 strokes are made by Suzuki so you can use one of them as well, but make sure its a Johnson 4 stroke.
Edited by Captain 8/24/2011 8:24 AM
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Posts: 512
| Yes, i think that is what happened because i had a bunch of weeds hanging on the engine in that area. So i will check that out.
I think the 90/115/140 are all the same because the manual i have is for all of those h.p. So you are right there.
I was thinking a 14x21 possibly if im about 500 r.p.m.s over, but i will take it out again friday and check it once more before i buy any props.. Do ya think just going up an inch in diameter at 14x19 would decrease r.p.m.s also?
I really like the wing thingys, surprised to hear so much negative stuff on em, really helps with porpoising.
Also, does your suzuki 150 have the water pilot hole adjustment on the back? where your tell tale water stream comes out? Mine is gone, water just comes out so its hard to see it unless you go back and check it. Have been looking for the part online, cant find it!
thanks captain
Dave
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | Any increase in the prop size will decrease RPMs. |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hi Dave,
Depending on the water outlet, it might just be a hose that comes through a rubber grommet, and it might just need to get pulled out a little more.
Steve Worrall is correct in that when you increase diameter, you will reduce RPM's... Here are rough estimates of what happens:
Every 1/4" change in diameter will be a change of roughly 100 RPM's. So...if you go up 1" in diameter, be expecting a reduction of roughly 400 RPM's on your engine.
Likewise, (as I believe Steve Worrall mentioned earlier) that a 1" change in pitch will change your RPM's anywhere from 100 to 150 RPM's. So...going up from a 19 to a 21 pitch prop could reduce your RPM's by something like 200 - 300 RPM's.
So...if you go 14 x 21, you would roughly see a decrease of roughly 600 to 700 RPM's... It might be what you need, depending on where your RPM's are currently.
The wings are not a negative thing for many boats. They are designed to help under-powered boats stay on plane at lower speeds because the power is not there for the engine to do it alone. The wings provide stern lift and if the fin is in the water, the ability to trim the boat a bit better. With your rig, you are max on HP, so the right prop will bring your boat alive.
With your combination, you should be really close to, if not over 40mph...
Steve |
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Posts: 437
| Also, does your suzuki 150 have the water pilot hole adjustment on the back? where your tell tale water stream comes out? Mine is gone, water just comes out so its hard to see it unless you go back and check it. Have been looking for the part online, cant find it!
Your stream should be easily visible from the cockpit of your boat. My guess is just as VMS said that something may be clogged or not fully sticking out.
There are several "ports" if you will that you can remove the plugs and flush with fresh water from your garden hose. This would be a good idea. Your owner's manual will show you these locations. There should be a plug in the front and one on the side at least.
Also, on the bottom of the lower unit there is a screen on either side. Remove those and make sure there isnt anything plugged in there. |
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Posts: 512
| There is a piece missing. it says in my manual that you can turn the water pilot hole left or right to shoot the stream one way or another.. this motor is missing that piece. I looked at a johnson 4 stroke that was missing the same piece.. I wonder if it got clogged often so they just removed it? Would like to buy one so i can see the stream! It seems to have a good flow, but is just missing the piece.
i will attach a pic, if you zoom in on it, you will see what i mean. Its the port on the right side.. Not sure what the left port is, seems to be exhaust maybe?
Crap, had to shrink the pic so the detail isnt that good so its hard to see. but im sure its different then yours captain.
Dave
Edited by Dave T. 8/24/2011 10:46 AM
(mccartney at wrigley 042 [].JPG)
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mccartney at wrigley 042 [].JPG (127KB - 126 downloads)
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Location: Des Moines IA | My 70 Horse Suzi lost it's exhaust nozzle as well. I got a replacement from these guys
http://store.brownspoint.com/
It was like 5 bucks so I ordered two. Keep an extra in the boat. |
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Posts: 437
| Yep, that is definitely different than mine.
Ive been thinking about that prop you have on there. I wonder if they guy you bought it from had a stainless prop on there to begin with and didnt want to part with it so he swapped it for some other prop. It just seems odd that you would have a 13 on there, I cant even imagine what that would be good for. |
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Posts: 512
| yes i finally found the part! It is on the oil pan assembly, missed it there.
Going to try to find it at the local suzuki dealer, if they ever return my calls!
Or if necessary, i will order it..
thanks
Dave |
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Posts: 512
| I dont think so Captain, this was a nice guy, but he knew less about boats than i do! He had no clue. he just hooked it up and fished a couple times a year.. It probably did the same thing for him, he just didnt think anything about it.. Im emailing with a guy from the original dealer where the boat came from, he says 13 seems right to him.. also said to stop by and he take a ride with me no charge.. Too bad im like 450 miles away!!! I need to move north. at least for the summers!
I did finally find the part number for the water pilot hole nozzle, went and picked one up. Just snaps in.. Bad design, i imagine if it heats up, it will get soft and may pop out again..
But its there now. the guy at the parts desk said the motor may overheat without that piece.. dont see why it would, just turns the flow into a stream basically..
Dave
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Location: Des Moines IA | I'm pretty sure that piece creates the water pressure inside the engine. Without it you won't get proper flow through the motor. At least that's what I was told. I would have bought two if I were you, they do disappear magically quite often. |
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Posts: 512
| Maybe. i dont know why that would be a problem though. Its a smaller hole so would decrease the total flow i would think.. I hope it isnt an issue down the road, ive had enough with this boat all ready!!
but i dont know nothing.. Just know i saw a johnson just like that too, so it must be common..
i did think about getting two, dont know why i didnt.. idiot!!
Dave |
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Posts: 395
Location: NW WI | Use a little bit of clear silicone maybe to hold it in? |
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Posts: 437
| There are always a few things when buying anything. I thought I was smart adjusting the trim tab on mine to control torque steer. Well, I didn't tighten it enough, then when backing up it turned around and the prop hit it bending the stainless prop. Ouch! |
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Posts: 512
| I was thinking something like that..
actually a drop of super glue..
good idea though
Just got a price for a custom cover for that boat thru cabelas.
$850!! ugh, i miss my old boat
Dave |
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Posts: 512
| Ok, one more question..
How do you figure out the rotation of your motor?
R or L..
I see some pretty decent prices for stainless on boat.net, may try one of those
after testing it out again friday..
Dave |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | your motor will rotate to the right... Best way to test this: put it on a garden hose, start it up and put it in gear...see which way the prop turns for forward and reverse.
The only times that I know of that a person would want a prop to turn the opposite way is with dual outboard applications (like ocean running boats or heavy towing situations). The torque from each prop turning is offset, by one prop turning right, and another prop turning left.
Steve
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Posts: 395
Location: NW WI | Dave T. - 8/24/2011 7:47 PM
I was thinking something like that..
actually a drop of super glue..
good idea though
Just got a price for a custom cover for that boat thru cabelas.
$850!! ugh, i miss my old boat
Dave
I might not use superglue. With silicone, at least you'd be able to pry it out if needed. If you use SGlue...well you might end up breaking more than just the part you want to hold in if you ever have to remove it.
Hang in there....it's a nice looking boat! Things like this happen when you buy a boat from a private seller. Ask me....I just bought a boat a month ago and it's had more than it's share of "surprises". LOL!!! Today it's going to be a $135 voltage regulator! |
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Posts: 512
| Ya youre right. stuff happens..
Just wasnt looking to buy a new boat, but the accident forced my hand, so that probably doesnt help..
Like i said before, i didnt realize how good of a deal i had with my old boat.. Just bought that baby and ran it!!
and yes, silicone does seem like a better idea, just have to keep it out of the water hole!!
Thanks a bunch guys, i will let ya know how the 2nd lake test goes!
Dave |
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Posts: 512
| Just got an email about another navigator, with a 90 E tec on it, and he said the prop is a 13.5x15.. hmmm
different motor tho.. interesting
Dave |
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Posts: 437
| Yeah, each motor is completely different. Gear ratios play a big role in what prop works for what motor. If that was a Johnson I would say you might have a comparison since that is a Suzuki motor, but not an Etec. |
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Posts: 255
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I live in the Chicago area. I was recommended to a guy by the name of John at DAH prop in Burlington, WI. You do not even need to go see him. I got the boat I always wanted 2 winters ago. An Alumacraft 185 Tournament Pro Tiller with a 90hp. It is way underpowered but 90 is the max allowable hp for that boat. I talked to many prop and motor guys in the area. Tried some modifications and even posted on here to get better performance. VMS on here was helpful and is knowledgeable. No offense to anyone but John from DAH blew me away. My boat is dialed in with the prop he made me. I get the correct RPM the best fuel efficiency and amazing handling. His website is www.dahpropellers.com You can even just call him and ask some questions. Just don't be afraid of a stainless prop. Hope this helps. Tom |
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Posts: 512
| Oh yes, was going to get a stainless..
i will call him after i take it out and play with it tomorrow
thanks Tom
Dave |
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Posts: 2323
Location: Stevens Point, WI | Call Mike and Marine Diversified for a custom cover. 262.206.3045. |
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Posts: 512
| Do they make snap covers TJ?
thanks
Dave |
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Posts: 512
| I asked someone who had the same boat and motor, (one year older) and he says he is running a 14 x 21 aluminum prop... That may be the problem then..
Dave |
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| Is the moral of this story "Don't buy a Navigator?"
I will be in the market for a new boat myself in the next year. With buying a new/used boat, I would be pretty disappointed with all the issues. |
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Posts: 437
| Guest - 8/26/2011 7:47 AM
Is the moral of this story "Don't buy a Navigator?"
I will be in the market for a new boat myself in the next year. With buying a new/used boat, I would be pretty disappointed with all the issues.
The boat is not the problem, its the setup. It has been obvious from the first post that this boat was not set up properly starting with the trailer not setup, etc.
Some dealers dont take the extra time to do things right. And when buying used you never know what you are going to get.
Once he gets the right prop on this boat it will be a great performing machine. It shouldnt have gone down like this though, it should have been set up properly from the beginning. |
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Posts: 512
| The moral is 80 year old ladies shouldnt be driving! If not for her i wouldnt have been in the market for a new boat..
But seriously, Captain is right. Its not the boat, it was the dealer.. The boat will
be fine after i work thru all this little b.s. It is disappointing, but it happens, been that kind of summer for me so far.
Luckily i got a pretty good deal, so dont feel too bad spending a few more dollars to make it right.
Dave |
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| I agree that it was the set up NOT the boat. The Navigator series helped Alumacraft pass Lund in boats sold a few years ago. Everyone knows that Lund is a excellent boat .I have never met another Navigator owner say anything bad about their boat. If you travel long distances to fish you will see a boat on a trailer set up incorrectly from time to time. Thats the guy you pass with the hammer down ! Dave, you have a good boat and motor. You just need a boat vet to help you out. Good fishing my friend. |
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Location: Eastern Ontario | The Suzy should have a rev limiter that will shut you down if it over rev's for 10 seconds. Go to a prop shop tell them what you got got and see what they recomend. I bought a prop fro a prop shop yesterday ( what they recomended)and they wrote right on the bill that it could be exchanged if it over reved or didn't perform.
Edited by horsehunter 8/26/2011 4:33 PM
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | I would have to agree on what the navigator series has done for Alumacraft. If memory serves me, one of the designers from Lund came over to Alumacraft, and out came this boat. It really was on par with Lund's 1675 Explorer they offered back around 2002 or so as it has many of the same characteristics/properties. Lund has since brought back their 1675 explorer, but I think the alumacraft uses space a bit better, especially on the console editions along the starboard side.
It's gonna be a great boat for Dave when all of the kinks get worked out...
I say...welcome to the Alumacraft Family!!
Steve |
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Posts: 512
| I agree Steve, i like the layout much better than the crestliner 1650 fishhawk. Prefer the two rod lockers and they will hold 8 footers as well!
wont get a chance to take the boat out until monday, so have to wait until then to run it once more before i go out and get a different prop for her
Dave |
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| I have the opposite problem max rpm for me is about 4350 rpm and suggested is 4500 to 5500. It has a good hole shot and top speed is about 37-38 mph. My question is the prop to big or the prop have too much pitch? |
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Posts: 3480
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
Could be a combination of both.. What motor and what prop are you currently running?
Steve |
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| I think you got Great advice from everbody!
I have a 2010 Alumacraft Navagator 165 CS,. 2010 Suzuki 90 HP,
I bought it new. came with 13.5 x 19 Alum Prop Rpm rec range 5300 - 6300)
with this prop I had a top speed of 38 mph (gps) (5400 RPM)
I wanted to increase my RPM's
So I bought a new suzuki prop (14 x 17) increased my rpm's to 6000
Decresed speed to 36 mph (gps)
Runs perfect....Love my navagator
Hope this Helps
Ken |
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