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Posts: 143
Location: Palatine, IL | Let's face it, Musky fishing is an expensive thing to be involved in. We all want to have the latest and best gear possible. Everyone recommends the WInch or the Calcutta, but not everyone can afford the best. I'm looking for some feedback on some less expensive reels that people have had good experiences with. Thanks. |
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| I have used an old gander mtn reel (pflueger trion 66) for several seasons and only had to replace the line guide pawl. I just make sure to clean it and grease/oil frequently. I also love my revo toro's and you can usually find some of the 50 sized ones for under 180 online. |
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Posts: 267
Location: Right behind you (tap, tap) BOOO | Everyone will have an opinion and they will probably all lead you back to the Winch's and Calcutta's and Trinidad's - unless of course you make your $$$ range available.
For my money @ $169.00 the Daiwa Saltist LW20 is a pretty #*^@ good option - will handle most anything you can throw at it or with it. |
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Posts: 538
Location: northern indiana | My Corvalus has been great for 3 years. My Cardiff has been even better, but it only has one year under it's belt. (I put all my gear to the test, rain or shine) |
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Posts: 968
Location: N.FIB | okuma okena,I got mine for under a hundred bucks,just can`t use big lures with the cheaper priced reels,stick with single bucktails and reg size dawgs and topwaters and also jerks and gliders,stay away from any super hard pulling baits and the reels should last you awhile,reels will last you longer if you know how to properly lube them yourself. |
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Posts: 582
| Shimano Cardiff... $109 and is a great reel for that price. It's a step up from the Corvalus with less plastic pieces. I have had a few cardiff's for a couple of years and haven't had any issues at all. Easy to work on too. |
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Location: Contrarian Island | the bass pro musky reel has held up well for me and others who have them...for 99 bux they are about the best for the money if you don't want to spend a lot.. |
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Posts: 752
| IMHO...
If you want to use modern sized tackle *(DCG's etc..) the Saltist is really your only decent sub $200.00 option. If you plan on using smaller gliders, dive and rise baits, smaller swim baits, Jig & Minnow Body's, ShowGirl Sized Blades, and/or Smaller Top Water most wide bodied Bass reels spooled with 65 lbs line will work just fine. I have an old AllStar Platnum Flipping Stick with a Pflueger President that has landed a number of fish most recently a 46 on the Flambeau River from a Canoe... (did not want to bring reel expansive tackle on a canoe trip...) The reality it if you use a $100.00 reel to pull DCG's you will end up spending as much had you bought a Calcutta you will just do it buying 3 reels over time... |
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| It is almost always true that you get what you pay for--unless you get there when there is a Clearance Sale. In any event, I am very econo-minded. I have three Shimano Corvalus reels and one Abu Garcia 6500C3. I have no complaint about any of them. |
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Posts: 697
Location: Minnetonka | I haven't yet found a good, less expensive substitute for the Calcutta TE... nothing has held up for me like the TE as far as conventional reels go. As far as high-speed reels go. I don't think the Saltist is a good option... I've heard of many instances of the bail spring breaking after little use and the reel is junk. For a good, more affordable substitute to the Trinidad 14, I'd go with the cheaper cousin, the Torium 14. It's a great high-speed reel for bucktails that has lasted me the better part of a season with no issues other than having to grease it. You should be able to find one for $170. |
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Posts: 424
| Take a look in the section: "Buy, Sell and Trade".
You can find great reels at very affordable prices .....
esoxone |
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Posts: 203
Location: Minnesota | You would want to check out the new Okuma Isis and/or Cedros...
I have both reels... Isis regulated to gliders/jerkbaits/topwaters duty while Cedros is regulated to Big Rubbers/Bucktails duty... It handles DCGs just fine as long you're doing slowrolling or reeling at a steady pace... I have a Trinidad if I wanted to burn DCGs...
Basically both reels are exactly the same, except for the color and the handles (Cedros comes with power handle while Isis comes with twin paddle handle)
If you look around online, you'll be able to find it for less than the MSRP pricing... Thats what I did...
I've been impressed with both reels so far... all three of my reels from last year has been regulated to backups now...
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| I also agree with BNelson on the Bass Pro reels.
I've been using them for 10 years. Had my first problem last year on LOTW, but that's going to happen with any reels if you use them long enough.
I throw my DCG's with this reel all day long. I do own a Toro Winch and prefer the Bass Pro reel in the 4.2 gear ration best.
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | Bass Pro Reels come in 5.2:1 or 4.2:1 gears and U can buy a 2 year plan I think for appox: $25.00 and if the reel breaks it is fixed for free or replaced. Not bad for a $99.99 retail reel. |
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Location: Contrarian Island | i beat the crap out of the one i have and it held up well for 3 seasons...for 100 bux you can't beat em imo...they have been on sale down to 70 before too....i have had TE's break in less time than my bass pro reels...go figure. |
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Posts: 60
Location: Lake Minnetonka | Definitely the Daiwa Saltist reels. This is my 4th year with the 30HA (comprable to the Trinidad 16N) for burning big blades, the 40TH (3rd year with it) for Big plastics and other heavy lures, and the 20HA for topwaters and jerkbaits.
All the guts are the same so makes it easy to take apart, clean and grease. |
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Posts: 416
Location: Madtown, WI | If you are the type of guy who will take the time to do all the proper maintenance and is capable of fixing the common problems, you have plenty of less expensive option. I've basically been using the same 3 reels (all <$100) for the past 4-6 years and they've all had their share of problems, but all are still in perfect working order after a little work (mainly in the offseason). I think anybody who claims a reel is "junk" or "explodes" is typically a person who neglects their reels and don't have a clue how it works. Every reel breaks no matter what you pay for it. The only thing I've noticed with the higher end reels are that they are smoother, but not necessarily more durable.
If on a budget, I would recommend having a couple relatively new reels and then buy a lightly used one or two on mfirst or ebay as a backup. Keep them spooled up so if one of your "starters" has a problem you can simply swap reels on the water then fix the reel back home. The BPS musky reels are good, TICA's, as well as the classic Abu C3's. |
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Posts: 143
Location: Palatine, IL | Thanks for the input everyone! Much appreciated! |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | stdevos - 6/28/2011 5:06 PM
If you are the type of guy who will take the time to do all the proper maintenance and is capable of fixing the common problems, you have plenty of less expensive option. I've basically been using the same 3 reels (all <$100) for the past 4-6 years and they've all had their share of problems, but all are still in perfect working order after a little work (mainly in the offseason). I think anybody who claims a reel is "junk" or "explodes" is typically a person who neglects their reels and don't have a clue how it works. Every reel breaks no matter what you pay for it. The only thing I've noticed with the higher end reels are that they are smoother, but not necessarily more durable.
If on a budget, I would recommend having a couple relatively new reels and then buy a lightly used one or two on mfirst or ebay as a backup. Keep them spooled up so if one of your "starters" has a problem you can simply swap reels on the water then fix the reel back home. The BPS musky reels are good, TICA's, as well as the classic Abu C3's.
Great post! |
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Posts: 360
| Abu c4 6600 never have had a single problem with them |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | sworrall - 6/28/2011 11:16 PM
stdevos - 6/28/2011 5:06 PM
If you are the type of guy who will take the time to do all the proper maintenance and is capable of fixing the common problems, you have plenty of less expensive option. I've basically been using the same 3 reels (all <$100) for the past 4-6 years and they've all had their share of problems, but all are still in perfect working order after a little work (mainly in the offseason). I think anybody who claims a reel is "junk" or "explodes" is typically a person who neglects their reels and don't have a clue how it works. Every reel breaks no matter what you pay for it. The only thing I've noticed with the higher end reels are that they are smoother, but not necessarily more durable.
If on a budget, I would recommend having a couple relatively new reels and then buy a lightly used one or two on mfirst or ebay as a backup. Keep them spooled up so if one of your "starters" has a problem you can simply swap reels on the water then fix the reel back home. The BPS musky reels are good, TICA's, as well as the classic Abu C3's.
Great post!
All the upkeep in the world can’t justify an expensive reel failing in a very short amount of time. Something I have experienced with a well known brand I will not mention. Sometimes some companies charge more for a product that may not be all that better. Sure it may be smooth with the extra bearings, but the extra bearings are no good if they blow out before their life expectancy. A lot of reels now days have issue with the anti-reverse failing on them, and within a week of buying them at that. It’s not a operator issue, but rather an engineering issue. Whether it be an incorrect bearing, improper lube, or lack of a back-up mechanism to prevent it from failing.
However I will agree with upkeep in general, and fixing reels that do wear if you go the cheap rout. I think it should be expected after a reasonable amount of time that you will need to replace parts on a cheaper reel. Most common, like on an Abu Garcia, is the worm gear and pawl. Sometimes the button release mechanism. You can get the parts pretty cheap, and are easy to replace yourself.
The old Bass Pro reels were very good for the price. Not sure about the newer ones as I have heard a lot of stories about them. If you can find a used, but good condition black one get it! Otherwise I have had good luck with the Shimano Cardiff I have thus far, but it doesn’t see the use my other reels do as it is a lefty, and I am a righty. It’s a reel I have been using trying to get into using a lefty to give my left side a break once in awhile. It has impressed me enough to think about getting a righty as well. Keep in mind my everyday reels are a Calcutta and a TE.
More expensive reels will eventually fail and need parts replaced, but usually it is after a much longer period of time.
Really boils down to what kind person you are in if you want to deal with failures and reel maintenance more often, or want a more reliable product that will eventually fail but not as quickly and can usually take more neglect in the maintenance dept.
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Location: Contrarian Island | seems to me the guys that have the most issues with their reels are the ones in my boat who seem to get a backlash every 30 casts..imo if you learn to cast properly and don't get backlashes your reels will hold up much better....
I rarely break reels for the hours I put on them...and I rarely get backlashes....coincedence? I think not |
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Posts: 829
Location: Maple Grove, MN | I have had many different reels over the years and now run all ABU reels. I now have three 5600 class, five 6500 class and a 7000HSN reel. The biggest thing for ABU reels, just like any other, is keeping them clean and lubed properly. I break my reels down at least once a season and sometimes two or three times in a year and, just in case, keep a supply of parts on hand. A few gears, drag washers, and odds and end parts are generally all I need each year. It takes maybe 20 mintutes to clean, repair (if needed) and lube a reel.
There are two things all reels have trouble with:
1) Stopping the lure at the end of the cast with the handle and not your thumb. That puts a tremendous stress into a reel and can tear out gears and cause all kinds of problem. Best way to ruin any reel quickly.
2) Letting the reel get dirty or not lubing it. No reel will operate correctly and all can get severely damaged if parts cannot move properly.
The bottom line is keep the reels clean and lubed. All reels will fail prematurely if neglected. Just like a car or pickup, they need maintenance.
Good luck. |
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | I guess I need to learn how to cast properly then as I break my fair share. 
Again though it is mostly the anti-reverse that goes out for me. Those that fish bucktails a lot probably don’t experience it. Those that slack snap gliders, WTD baits, and rip/jerk cranks and rubber baits see the anti-reverse bearings fail quickly depending on the reel. Just straight crank stuff and you don’t have many issues. You also don’t catch as many fish as you could!
Certain reels, like Shimano, are not prone to the premature failure of the anti-reverse bearings like some others due to their design.
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | 'Really boils down to what kind person you are in if you want to deal with failures and reel maintenance more often, or want a more reliable product that will eventually fail but not as quickly and can usually take more neglect in the maintenance dept. '
Exactly. If you expect that beating a reel mercilessly ripping cranks or rubber or pulling double 13s should happen without consequence and do not wish to take the extra care for severe use and careful application of the correct product to actual use/abuse, well...
There is is.
Reels that have 'out of the box' issues across the board are in most cases as quickly as is possible addressed by the builder or they don't sell. If they sell any way, and remain a popular item, it's a sign that the intended use of that reel is exceeded by some folks, hence the failures out of the box by a few, and the majority has no issues. That doesn't mean the brand is no good, obviously.
One doesn't take an Audi mudding. Nice car, runs fast and efficiently, well appointed, and suits the owner well if driven as recommended. We need 4 wheel drive pick-ups as a comparison to reels.
If you take your 4 wheel drive brand new pick-up truck wide open throttle across a plowed field and something in the drive train breaks and that upsets you, well...maybe you need to buy a Military surplus MRAP.
Apply the correct product to your desired use, and expect that if the use is severe, you will need to offer extra care to the reel. If you are like some folks and REALLY fish hard, long hours; get the toughest, roughest, meanest, (and as a result, usually the most expensive) overbuilt product you can apply to your use. In our case, that appears to be saltwater reels designed to land freaking Bluefin, and we STILL break the stuff eventually. Again.... there's your sign.
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Posts: 1906
Location: Oconto Falls, WI | I agree Steve. I am just sick of seeing these posts on people must not know how to cast properly if they break reels. A lot more goes into the longetivity of a reel than just casting.
I don't consider my fishing technique beating on reels, but some might. There are a lot worse things I can do to a reel.
What has become obvious to me though is at the same or near the same price point some reels just last better and have less issues. At least for my fishing style. It's just too bad we are forced to buy various reels, especially expensive ones, to find one that works for our needs. That's where these boards come in handy to be able to discuss the points, good and BAD, of a reel.
I don't know. I think taking an Audi through the mud would be fun!
The stay with your analogies you can compare the various truck mfg'rs out there. Take their trucks, new, for a ride through the mud or farmers field. Certain mfg'rs truck will almost always hold up better than others although pricewise they are similar. |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | The Ten Commandments of Fishing Reels
by : Pimp My Rod & Reel
1- Back off the drag system of the reel at the end of each day of fishing, this will save the drag spring washers from taking a set.
2- Back off the cast control knob on the reel at the end of each day of fishing, this will help to keep the cast control fiber washers from dimpling, then your spool will be off center.
3- Respool the line back on the reel at the end of each day of fishing, just let the line out in the water when you running back to the dock at speed in the boat and rewind the line tight on the spool. If the line is loose on the spool the reel has a greater chance of backlashing and line dig.
4- Use your THUMB on the spool when casting and keep the cast control knob loose on the side of the reel. Do not tighten down the cast control knob to stop backlashes, reset the spool brakes on the side of spool when you are casting into wind. Also keep the side of the reel facing upwards when casting, this will help to eliminate backlashes. Your wrist will have greater movement if you hold the reel side up.
5- Use your THUMB on the spool when you are ripping & jerking baits, this will save the anti-reverse bearing, a must for St Croix & Daiwa Luna reels.
6- Never engage a reel when the lure is in the air on a cast, stop the spool with your thumb first then engage the reel when the lure hits the water, this will save the spool pin and gears.
7- Use the drag system of the reel when fighting a fish, if you must push the spool release button on the reel to thumb the spool when fighting a fish, bend your knees first to release the pressure off the spool, by releasing the pressure off the spool of the reel you won't bend the clutch arm in the reel.
8- Spool bearings must be relubed after 40 hours of casting, only 1-2 drops of any brand of fishing reel oil. I like Hot Sauce Oil and Grease
9-The worm gear needs to greased after 40 hours of casting
10- Clean your reel once a week with a tooth brush to get all the weeds and dirt off the outside of the reel.
11- The 11th commandment is unwritten, if your reel is making a funny noise, don't stick it in the water to make it stop squeaking send it to Pimp My Rod & Reel for a professional reel Super Tuning / Pimping and Cleaning. |
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Posts: 32886
Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin | 'To stay with your analogies you can compare the various truck mfg'rs out there. Take their trucks, new, for a ride through the mud or farmers field. Certain mfg'rs truck will almost always hold up better than others although pricewise they are similar.'
And that depends entirely on who you talk to and what brand they personally have had the best luck with. Tends toward the 'highly subjective' on message boards. I've run GMC, Chevy, Toyota, Ford, and Dodge; over the road and in the woods with tons of towing. I used to average over 65K a year, most pulling a boat. Now I'm closer to 50K, but I run a vehicle to 250K before thinking about selling it. I take care of my trucks, and all lasted very well. None outshined any of the others, all had quirks that began to nickle and dime at about 130,000 miles if one didn't just bite the bullet and fix immediately. The Toyota Emission Control fans were a bit over the top at $4K for two 12 volt fans, I'm glad they have addressed that issue, one of those anyone buying it no matter the use out of the box issues.
If I was to choose now, it'd be one of the list above.
My point is buy the reel that matches best you intended use. Take care of it. Not just drip a drop of oil through the thumbar, either. It's a metal and plastic machine and machines need lubrication and a clean environment. A few grains of sand can and will trash a reel if left in there, pay attention to unwarranted noise.
Four to five hard day's use, and take her apart and clean and lube. Or, send her to PIKEMASTER or another expert to do it for you. How many of you do THAT? I always have, and my reels treat me accordingly. Right now my X170T has three Okumas in it, and my 1700 has three. I bought 'em, too. I like the reels for the price, I like the guys who sell them, and I'll keep running them. I have two Red Isis reels. They clicked over during the cast all the time. I traded out the huge metal power handle for a large paddle handle I custom fit, and...issue fixed, no problems, and no more swearing at the reel. Okuma has that solved in the 2011 reels, my new ones are great. My son runs Shimano and Abu. Neither one gives a darn what the other prefers, and it's beyond me why so much of the opposite happens here. Go fishing, enjoy the day, and if your reel needs service, get 'er done. |
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Posts: 582
| honestly, i would rather just buy a new reel than do all those steps after every outing.... 
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Posts: 311
Location: Ontario | It depends a lot on what baits you cast and reel most often. Jerkbaits/gliders, surface baits and rubber you're basically just reeling in line that ranges from total slack to minor resistance. Provided the anti-reverse is solid (I clamp the spool when I jerk anything anyway) your reel isn't getting taxed a whole lot. Casting and reeling lures that pull hard and directly on the reels guts will tax a reel more. Big spinners, all-day cranking etc. The drag needs to be reliable in a short burst but certainly not as reliable as one you'd use for a fish that will smoke off a couple hundred yds full steam without stopping, like a salmon. I'd rate a solid anti-reverse ahead of a silky drag in a muskie reel, myself. I free-spool a fish when it wants to run. Lures/casting/reeling will eat a muskie reel faster than an actual muskie fight will. If you fish a coulple wknds a month with surface baits, jerkbaits, reg. bucktails etc, there's no reason why a reel shouldn't last you a long time, one under $200, too. One you step into cranking big blades, ripping big rubber lures etc, I think the reel requirement changes accordingly based on how stuff like this beats on equipment. And just as an aside, lots and lots of fish will drill dbl tens below Mach10 lol. You can catch plenty of fish waking them and slow rolling them. You don't have to crank them until you pass out to get fish to hit them.
The biggest consideration I take into account when I buy something is 'where's the closest place I can get it worked on/get parts or exchange it?' This in itself might help you pick one. A well-maintained used reel off this or any other fishing board can also be just fine. Lots of guys dump good equipment every year chasing the latest and greatest. there are quality reels that never stop working, they just go in and out of fashion like anything else. |
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Posts: 4343
Location: Smith Creek | Thank you Pikemaster!!! It frustrates the heck out me when I here someone complain about a reel and you can here a grinding noise all the way across the lake whenever their lure hits the water. Or complain about reels making a funny noise and its caked with algae. Or complaining about their reel not being as smooth and they try to reef on snags with their drag locked down. There are lemons out there, it happens. But I'd say 90% of problems with reels (and rods) are self inflicted. |
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Reels that don't break the bank.