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Posts: 315
| My keel guard is peeling back from under my boat toward the front...been like this for some time now but havent done anything about it...figure its an easy fix so its about time to do something. Only question is will a simple marine grade silicone work here?? its only about 8 inches that needs to be repaired. |
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Posts: 906
Location: Warroad, Mn | Mine did the same thing. I used marine "GOOP" (not sure what this is, could be just marine silicon). Anyways, did this a couple of years ago and it's still stuck on the hull. Seemed to work.
Doug Johnson |
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Posts: 315
| Thanks Doug! |
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | I'd use 3M 4200 or maybe even 5200 depending on your hull material. Just make sure you get an "adhesive/sealant" and not just a "sealant." Silicone in and of itself isn't an adhesive beyond the fact that it's sticky; it's bonding properties are poor. |
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| I just picked up a new KeelGaurd for my rig as well and have been debating whether to install it myself or take it in to get it professionally done at the shop?
What do you guys think out there that have done the home D-I-Y installation or suggestions from past experience? It defiantly looks easy enough to install but I worry about the longevity of it staying bonded to the hull and don’t want it to start peeling off few years down the line. My main concern is working temperature… my garage is about 45° right now and they don’t suggest to install it below 60°, which makes sense.
Any thoughts on this one? I plan on installing it this weekend and would like to avoid the $ fee of having it done as a marine shop but I would be willing to pay the cost if it is worth a lifetime bond of the KeelGaurd….but then again whoever said taking it in would be a betting installation.
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | Install it yourself. I've installed a few of them and they're easy.
Two things-
1. Take your time and follow the instructions to the letter. Once it's on, it's on. There's no do-over. Prep and install exactly as the instructions say to.
2. Wait for the proper working temp. It makes it a bit more pliable to work with, but more importantly it lets the adhesive cure properly. 45 is too cold. |
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Posts: 315
| esox fly its on a ranger and if i remember correctly u run a ranger as well correct? I will grab up some of the 3 m stuff at work |
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Posts: 253
Location: Birchwood, WI. | Let it warm up..45 is to cold . Use a good solvent to prep area like acetone,dries quick & leaves no residue.. Its just like putting on a sticker!! Just get it started straight,, cause once its started you aint moven it or removing it!!!!!!! |
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Posts: 1663
Location: Kodiak, AK | lookin4_big_gurls - 4/16/2011 12:36 AM
esox fly its on a ranger and if i remember correctly u run a ranger as well correct? I will grab up some of the 3 m stuff at work
Yessir. Install is cake. Just follow the directions and do it right. Like Jimi said, once it's on, it's on. I believe it does call for acetone and no alcohol because it leaves a residue...can't remember. For install, you can run 4200 down the edges, but it's not required. For repairs, I'd also use 4200 to bond/fill any delams. Don't use 5200. That's one of the few things in life that advertise "permanent" and actually is. It will pull off gel coat. It's got it's uses, but this ain't one of them! LOL |
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