Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?
Great Big
Posted 4/2/2011 7:22 PM (#490363)
Subject: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 90


Location: Athens, Ohio
I'm looking to buy a boat for use on Ohio inland lakes, Lake Erie (within reason), and some of the bigger Canadian ponds like LOTW.

Hull: Which fishes better, a bass style boat or deeper style like a Lund or Ranger 621?
Length: I was thinking of something in the 20' range. Bigger? Smaller?
Motors: How much fuel does a bigger motor like a 250 or 300 hp, gobble up vs. a 150 or 200hp? How much faster will a 300 vs. a 200 hp push the same fiberglass 20' boat?
Trolling Motors: 80-100 lb thrust? What's ideal?
Single console or Dual console: The protection of a dual console in bad weather I'm sure is great, but is it not worth the trade-off of the loss of space that a second console takes up?
Rod Storage: Do any of the current boats accomodate todays 8' to 9' rods?
Glass vs. aluminum: Any hard and fast reason for either one?


Or simply anything else about your boat that you are glad you have/did to the boat, OR things you have on your boat that turned out to be unnecessary.

Thanks for the help.
esox 55
Posted 4/2/2011 8:25 PM (#490369 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: RE: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 17


I have owened a 620 ranger and now i own a 205 ranger bass boat both 20 ftr's I personally like my big hi front deck on my bass boat to fish out of helps me see follows better But when i had my 620 that boat rode ruff water better and kept me alot dryer which is pretty important in late november both boats would hold 8' ft rods the 620 was nice for trolling also as for not getting a console for passanger side i personally woudn't do it when your talking about a boat over 20' the amount of room you lose isnt that much as for motors on my 620 i had a 200 evinrude and that handled that boat great Bigger motors mean bigger gas bills,bigger repair bils,bigger insurance premiunm, more weight, the size of some big outboards makes hard for fishing out the back of the boat when trolling and casting as for alum vs glass you will get 1000 different opinions I like both The way Alum boats are made today verses 15 years ago i believe is huge. All welded alum boats are nice Thats my 2 cents good luck whatever you get and also you never can have to much trolling power .

Edited by esox 55 4/2/2011 8:45 PM
Landry
Posted 4/3/2011 12:48 PM (#490464 - in reply to #490369)
Subject: RE: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 1023


If u r not a person who can afford expensive toys then I would go with an aluminum with a smaller motor (4 stroke or optimax). The fuel consumption difference between my 75 optimax and alum boat and my buddies triton and 225 optimax is HUGE!!!!!
I like to run around a lot and I don't want to be counting the dollars while I do it. Ya - it takes me longer to get there than his triton but I am not fishing tourneys and 35 - 40 mph is still pretty quick. Gives me time to eat a snack anyways.
We are all so spoiled in North America.
Just my 2 cents.
Landry
esoxfly
Posted 4/3/2011 3:25 PM (#490489 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: RE: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 1663


Location: Kodiak, AK
First thing you need to do is decide what YOU need; and base that on the water you fish, the type of fishing you do (trolling, casting, walleye, bass tx's, etc). For example, a bass boat won't troll very well. It's not set up for it, you'll get a wet ride on big water, you don't have the seating for it and many or most bass boats don't come with rails for rod holders, let alone kickers. Decide if you fish alone or with someone, or with kids and family. What vehicle do you intend to tow with? How important is speed? Tin vs glass has been discussed on here before and I'm long-winded, so I'll leave that one be for now... So first and foremost, narrow it down to what you need, not what works for the rest of us. Opinions are great and can be valuable, but for me, my water and my style of fishing (casting only) a big heavy bay boat works great. But for my Dad who fishes small water and dirt ramps in northern MN and likes to drag a harness for 'eyes fairly often, it woudln't be ideal; his 16' Lund tiller is. So look at your water and your fishing and settle on a boat style and then start shopping.

As for motors, I say get as big as you can afford. Gas mileage in any outoboard is less than ideal. And personally, gas prices come and go, but a motor is year after year. A smaller motor can actually get worse mileage than a larger motor on the same hull depending on how you run it and prop it. Yes of course there's a difference between a 225 and a 50 hp, but on the same hull, if you're looking at a 200 or a 225 (both two or four stroke), go with the 225.

For your questions comparing a 200 to a 300, you really shouldn't be seeing the same hull set up with a 200 or a 300...if you are, someone isn't rigging a boat properly. Most hulls from the factory will have a 50 hp or so range. Example, the 621 is rated for 300, so I'd expect to see 275's and 250s, but not 200's on it. Anything is possible, but these are generalizations. Then the next consideration is the block the motor is built on. For example, a 620 is rated for 250 so you might see a four stroke Yamaha 250 or 225. Well these are the same motor! (There are small differences in the valve train and fuel delivery, but it's the same powerhead otherwise. My 225 Sport, however is the exact same power head as the 250, but detuned to 225). As such you'll have the same weight, same size, same repair costs, same maintenance and so on. However, if you move up to the 300 on the 621, that's an entirely different line, and are V8's. Then you'd get into more weight, different parts, etc. So don't just assume that a higher hp motor is heavier or sucks more gas...they may be the same exact motor, one is just detuned through the ECU. Look at each motor's respective website and look at their "series" of motors. The big Yamaha four strokes run 200-250 and 300-350. Within each series. The Yamaha SHO's, I'm not 110% sure on, but their HPDI's ran 200-250 as well, all on the same block. You get my drift....

I've not given insurance much thought. My insurance is like $35 a month and going from 200 to 225 I didn't notice any difference so I consider it a non-issue.

Fuel mileage, four strokes generally do better than two's. And in a comparison in the same series, again say Yammi 200 or 225 to 250, it's negligible. You'll still be feeding a big motor. But my 225 four stroke absolutely spanks my 200 two stroke on gas, on the same boat. Speed, you'll pick up a few mph going up in hp as well. It just depends on how important speed is to you.

Trolling motors, get the biggest, strongest you can afford. No exceptions.

For length, I like 20'. I fish alone 99% of the time, so 20' is big enough to run big water, but small enough to not be too much. They make 22' bays and I've seen them and fished them, but my 20'er fits me, my dog, and my water perfectly.

I'd say decide what you need first, then start shopping. Don't let someone sell you a boat with a 50 hp on just for the sake of fuel efficiency, only to realize it's not what you need, and you should've gotten the bigger boat with a 150 but not as good mileagle. Fuel mileage ain't everything...being able to fish where/when/how you want to fish is...that's the whole purpose of a fishing boat. (Fuel is a consideration, but it's one of many.)

These are only my observations from buying and repowering my boats and fishing mine and a few others. I've by no means fished or owned them all.
Great Big
Posted 4/3/2011 4:44 PM (#490501 - in reply to #490489)
Subject: RE: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 90


Location: Athens, Ohio
Esoxfly, I appreciate all the time you put into that reply. Thank you and everyone else for your insight.

Much Thanks.
esoxfly
Posted 4/3/2011 9:11 PM (#490564 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 1663


Location: Kodiak, AK
No problem. When you ask specific questions, compared to "which boat should I buy?" it's easy to answer questions instead of generalities.
jackson
Posted 4/4/2011 8:22 AM (#490587 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 582


Like mentioned above.... Bass boats are nice to fish out of but seating is just not there. don't plan on ever having more than you and one other in the boat. I did enjoy fishing out of mine, but after selling it and going to a multi species boat i would never go back. Where you fish is also key. if it gets rough, bass boats aren't as friendly as a multispecies boat like a lund or ranger.
BNelson
Posted 4/4/2011 9:14 AM (#490598 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Location: Contrarian Island
select the biggest dual console Ranger deep v w the biggest motor you can put on it and you'll be good to go! ;0)
Great Big
Posted 4/4/2011 9:56 AM (#490605 - in reply to #490598)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 90


Location: Athens, Ohio
Why the choice of dual console? I've only fished out of a single console and like the freedom of movement the single give you.

Tell me the dual console benefits, and things to consider over a single.
esoxfly
Posted 4/4/2011 10:08 AM (#490609 - in reply to #490605)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 1663


Location: Kodiak, AK
Great Big - 4/4/2011 10:56 AM

Tell me the dual console benefits, and things to consider over a single.


Dry ride for passenger, and even some protection for the driver. It also provides another small amount of dry storage and another nook to cram stuff under and keep out of the elements. It's just a bit more protection from my point of view...at least I know I sometimes wish I had the protection of a full windshield. But I wouldn't trade my set up now for a sit down boat. But if I had a sit down 620, I'd have a dual console...full windshield...eh probably not. But dual console for sure.
Almost-B-Good
Posted 4/4/2011 11:39 AM (#490624 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: RE: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 433


Location: Cedarburg, Wisconsin
I would guess a 300 would run about 20 mph faster than a 200 on the same hull. As said before a 200 on any hull rated for 300 hp would be woefully underpowered. I thought the rule of thumb is 5hp per mile an hour increase once you get to 40 or so mph.

If you need a 300 you are pushing a huge musky boat and it won't be bassboat fast because of the weight (five batteries or more, 60 gal of gas or more, kicker and trolling motors. It would probably suck at least 50% more fuel than a 200hp rig because you would be throttled up to keep that big heavy boat moving.

If you can afford a boat that can carry a 300 and have one on the transom you obviously have enough money that gas prices aren't important, neither is fuel consumption, so that shouldn't be a factor.

Fished from a bass boat and I sure wouldn't buy one for my fishing. You get out in fall with snow on the deck and that 1" high gunnel rise between you on the deck and the lake isn't too impressive. Most important as stated before, pretty much not designed for trolling, no place to hang a kicker, and no room in back to run rod holders. If all you do is cast, OK, they are serviceable, but still, other than going fast, not near versatile enough for me, especially on bigger water.

If you do get a higher hp rig and fish alone one console is enough but if you have a fishing buddy that you want to keep, get a dual console. Freezing your butt off or getting soaked or pounded with hail out in the open isn't much fun. Also getting pasted with bugs running in at night isn't too much fun either.

Only you can decide if you want a big open water boat, a small lakes boat or a compromise. I took a compromise because I do the extremes very rarely. Take a look at the Tuffy X-190 and see what a nice compromise musky boat floor plan looks like, huge front deck for laying rods down, room in back for running the kicker and rod holders, 60mph rig with 200hp, fishes three easily, and won't scare you to death trying to get back in if the wind kicks up 4 footers. It's not a big water boat, not a small water boat, but a nice compromise. There are many boats to chose from and each has its strong points so carefully define the needs of your fishing and look at boats to satisfy those needs first, then worry about other options.
muskyone
Posted 4/4/2011 11:50 AM (#490626 - in reply to #490609)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 1536


Location: God's Country......USA..... Western Wisconsin
The best reason I can tell you for a dual console boat be it a Bass Boat or deep Vee multi species is resale. at least 85% of the boats we sell at Frankie's are dual console. We do not even order a single console for a "stock" boat any longer. If you decide on a Ranger Fisherman series buy the dual console with the walk through winshield for sure. When the time comes to trade or sell you will be thanking me. Lots of great boats to look at as well. Not going to try and sell you one here but I sell Rangers and Skeeters and Steve will even tell you I am a pretty good guy. Mike
cjrich
Posted 4/4/2011 5:17 PM (#490692 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 551


Location: Columbus, Georgia
Waterproof storage.

Let me repeat that: waterproof storage

My first Musky boat was a Crestliner 1750 Fish Hawk, single console. It was a really great boat, but only had one waterproof storage locker. The rest were drenched when there was a constant rain. If I would have realized that when I purchased the boat new ... I would have made a different choice.

My wife is my Musky partner and now thanks me every time we fish. The current boat has two consoles.

I guess you can't have everything. And anyway, who makes a rod locker for 9' plus rods ??? ... unless you buy those telescoping rods that guys are posting they can't retract to the smaller size.



Edited by cjrich 4/4/2011 5:37 PM
sworrall
Posted 4/4/2011 6:26 PM (#490709 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 32885


Location: Rhinelander, Wisconsin
'As said before a 200 on any hull rated for 300 hp would be woefully underpowered.'

Not necessarily. Any boat over 20' can rate USCG 'unlimited', and some will run quite well with a 200, and absolutely ROCK with a 300.
smbrickner
Posted 4/5/2011 5:53 PM (#490884 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?





Posts: 201


I got rid of my fiberglass bass boat and bought a Lund Predator. I will never go with anything other than a single console or tiller steer again!! I like to have 3 or 4 rods on the deck at once and in my Skeeter they would always be underfoot because the passenger console didn't allow me to lay them further back in the boat. Now I can because the side rod locker is the same height as teh front deck. So much nicer to be able to fight a fish without haveing to worry about stepping ona rod.
The side lockers on my boat hold 8 foot rods but there aren't rod tubes. I know the bigger version (2010) can hold up to 7'6 in the center rod storage and 8 foot on the side storage. There is a cool youtube video of the 2010 Predator Musky Rig.
The tackle storage is great, rod storage on the 1810 is so so, but like I said I always have 4 rods on the deck so I can still take 8-10 with me.
I went with this over another bass boat because the back casting deck has 2 seats that flip up making it comfortable seating for 4. Also I wanted a boat I could troll with without mounting a kicker (I have a 115 4 stroke).
detroithardcore
Posted 4/5/2011 8:18 PM (#490919 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 299


My Ranger 620 can store 9ft rods in the locker with ease. The rod locker was modifed and tubes at the end cut open to store 8'6" and 9ft rods. There safe and secure without concern of the tips smacking around. I just put my 9ft Big Nasty in the other day and had plenty of room to be able to pull it out with no issues.
Great Big
Posted 4/5/2011 8:51 PM (#490927 - in reply to #490919)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 90


Location: Athens, Ohio
Thats good news on the rod locker. I wondered what everyone with Rangers like yours did with todays longer rods.
LonLB
Posted 4/6/2011 2:14 AM (#490962 - in reply to #490363)
Subject: Re: Do's and Dont's of selecting the right Musky Boat?




Posts: 158


One of the things I'll add to this thread. In your kicker thread you mentioned HP restricted lakes.

If you are set on buying one boat for both, I would go with something either used, or smaller.

Go the older used route, and buy another used, smaller boat for the HP restricted lakes.

Or buy smaller, so that you are't pushing around a big boat with a 9.9hp motor.