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| I've been looking at all of the modified boats the last couple of weeks and I am considering a project of my own. My only concern is the amount of wood used. I want casting decks and rod lockers, but I'm afraid that would severely weigh some of the smaller boats down. Can someone with experience weigh in on this? |
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Posts: 158
| Did you already have a boat in mind?
It depends on the size of the boat. With a small boat weight would become a concern, but then again a small boat would be unstable with a casting deck, and have little room for storage areas.
There are other ways to build the boat though too. For instance aluminum C channel rectangle tubing, or L extrusion can be used for framing.
Aluminum sheeting, abs sheets etc can be used to build boxes etc.
I'm using ABS panels to build rod boxes and the like. Basically anywhere there needs to be a flat surface, but one that you aren't walking on. Luckily for me a local RV salvage shop has almost anything you could want. But if you look around the stuff is available from lots of places.
Also, the quality exterior plywood is actually lighter than what you would think. It's not like the cheap pine plywood.
In any case you do have to be conscious how much weight you are adding. If you are starting from scratch with a bigger boat it's possible to go overboard, and add so many things that it too is over weighted. Or at the very least requires a bigger engine than you could have gotten away with.
Edited by LonLB 2/17/2011 1:10 PM
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Posts: 146
Location: where the fish are... | Just like Lon said you really need to determine what kind of boat you are planning on using to determine what kind of weight it will be able to handle. |
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
For some of the smaller boats, (the normal V-bottom fishing boat like a Lund S-14 and similar), adding a little weight via decking can actually be a good thing!! The extra weight in the bow will settle the bow down if you fish alone and have a 20hp or larger motor on the back.
One major suggestion: Do not remove middle seats on these boats. The middle seats add strength to the sides of the boat, so by removing them, you weaken the entire hull. I have seen a few done who build rod lockers, which helps to support them, but without any side reinforcement, there is a risk of buckling the boat if a wave is hit hard enough...
Many times with these V-bottom hulls you can cut a board that will go over the front seat (right at the bow if it exists) and the first bench seat back, which creates the deck for fishing on. 3/4" plywood would be all you need here unless you are a bit on the hefty side, then a couple of pieces of angle iron placed in a criss-cross pattern will help with flexing. you could build a lower flat spot to mount a TM battery, then run a little wiring up to a plug in, build a top deck up front and put a bow-mount on it....that is really a nice addition.
The biggest benefit is the weight up front for the outboard and you in the rear. The bow does not rise as much, and will not porpoise on you at higher speeds.
Steve |
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| Thanks for the tips. I do not have a boat, and I really do not have a specific one in mind. I've been looking on for the last couple of weeks, but I haven't found anything that suits me. From what I have seen, a standard 14-16' V is what I am looking at budget wise. I would like a 16-18' flat bottom for shallower rivers though. My dream would be to restore an older Ranger, but the ones in my area are over $3000 for anyone in any condition. Does anyone have any tips at the kind or style of boat I should be looking for both as far as the interior and exterior go? Should I look for one that is mostly open or one with built in seats? |
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Posts: 158
| IMO you want something more open. Just because that's going to end up being a bigger boat.
Post a wanted ad on craigslist. Be clear what you want, and that it is to be a project. You can end up cheaper buying a boat with no motor, then finding one separate.
Where are you located?
Sending a PM your way too. |
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| I'm in PA. Local lakes are only a couple hundred acres at the most. Trolling motor only. There are also a couple rivers in the area, so it would be nice to have a flat bottom for those areas. |
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Posts: 158
| catchandrelease - 2/17/2011 5:10 PM
I'm in PA. Local lakes are only a couple hundred acres at the most. Trolling motor only. There are also a couple rivers in the area, so it would be nice to have a flat bottom for those areas.
I guess some people are crazy about Jon boats...Never really fished out of one. At least not one I could stand up in and walk around in.
I'd still look at a V bottom boat. Maybe something like an older Starcraft Jet, or similar hull. 15ft long, and the rear is almost a flat bottom.
I'd keep the boat very simple. Flat floor, no decks, and I would put the batteries up front to offset your weight in the back.
This would maintain it's ability to navigate shallow water, and would still be a boat big enough to walk around in and fish out of while standing and casting. |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | Had the pleasure of doing about 7 boats over the years. I went from wood to AL decking. The skin cover can be fairly thin as long as the support structure under the deck is solid and the open areas small. The last one I did with a guy that knew how to really build stuff and it is rock solid and weighs very little. It's been in use now for over 10 years w/o a hitch & fishes great. Put your work into the framework you will be happier with the results. |
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Posts: 956
Location: Home of the 2016 World Series Champion Cubs | I know this is promoting another web site (though not what I'd consider "competition") and might get pulled but, www.tinboats.net is a site for rebuilding restoring aluminum boats. Some good info there.
Edited by KARLOUTDOORS 2/20/2011 11:05 AM
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Posts: 3508
Location: Elk River, Minnesota | Hiya,
The older 70's models of the Lund S series had a very flat-floored stern which would allow you to run in shallower water without too much issue. I re-did a 1990 Alumacraft V-14, which did pretty well with just flat floors and a front raised deck. I also added a top deck for a bow-mount. That had a little bit of v-shape all the way back, but I could get through about 8" of water without issue, using a 25hp motor in shallow water drive.
Older teal-green Crestliner boats would be a good boat to work with as well. You don't see many of them around anymore, but they had a really nice front end on them which cut waves really well. My father had an 18 footer that he ran a 20hp and a 15 hp in tandem...that boat would move, but had a tendency to slide the rear end on turns, which always felt a little wierd.
Lots of options out there...
Steve
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Question to Boat Restorers