Drag Setting

Posted 8/28/2002 10:17 PM (#7569)
Subject: Drag Setting


how tight do u pros keep your drags and what are the reasons for the setting?

Posted 8/30/2002 1:48 PM (#42946)
Subject: Drag Setting


Slayer...

I crank mine down almost rock solid... Once I set the hook first thing I do is either put it in free spool if it's a figure 8 fish (depending on the type of bait sometimes I do my figure 8 with the reel in freespool) or back it way down if the fish was hooked away from the boat..

The "rock solid" is obvious...sharp hooks, tight drag, superlines and one good hookset is all you need.

I prefer to "thumb" my spool for drag/fish control once the fish is hooked.. How far do I back it down....so there's just enough tension for the reel to pick up the line.

With todays rods and no stretch lines it is very easy for the fish to create slack in the line or use the leverage to their advantage and throw the bait.. with my thumb on the spool I control the tension and will let line out as I feel is necessary...

Hope this helps a little..

Mark
Musky Adventures Guide Service
Eau Claire, WI

Posted 9/2/2002 12:46 PM (#42947)
Subject: Drag Setting


Your drag setting should be set on the method that you hold your rod. If you palm your reel and use your thumb to set the hook you can get by with a lighter drag. If you hold your hand on the rod grip in front of the reel you will need a tight drag to get a good hook set.

I used to crank my drag to the max and lost a couple of large fish that hit at the boat. When a fish hits at the boat on most reels you can not hit the free spool button till you relieve some pressure on the spool. If you have a big fish thrashing at boat side you are very busy and loosening the drag can be difficult.

Time on the water and experience will detirmine how tight you should set your drag. I use my thumb on free spool to control most of my fish, and always hit the free spool on a follow before starting my L that goes into the figure eight.

Good luck, Murph

Posted 9/3/2002 7:00 PM (#42948)
Subject: Drag Setting


Good Points Murph...


Slayer,

Murph makes a good point, just yesterday I got a fat low 40's fish that hit a Creeper about 10 feet out from the boat...If one is not used to "automatically" getting your reel in free spool you stand the chance of loosing the fish if it doesn't get some line. I am happy to report this fish was netted...however I have lost a few..

I should have mentioned also that I fish Garcia reels, one of them has the lever drag which makes backing the drag down a breeze.....Even cranked down tight most Garcia's will still have some slip to them..[:0]

If you can discipline yourself to lock the reel with your thumb on the hookset (provided you palm the reel) I recommend learning/teaching yourself the way Murph said.

I have some nerve damage in my hand so it becomes painful/numbing for me if I do figure 8's all day by thumbing the reel (which is the way I recommend you do all of your 8's if you can) or if I palm the reel all day. I do hold the rod by the fore-grip quite often especially when working larger crank baits or working some jerk/gliders.

Like Murph said, get a little experience and you will find a method you prefer that helps keep fish on the line.


Mark

Posted 9/19/2002 6:42 PM (#42949)
Subject: Drag Setting


Well said guys!

One thing I will add, the drag system on a Shimano Calcutta is easier to adjust then an ABU.

Posted 9/23/2002 4:57 PM (#42950)
Subject: Drag Setting


Slayer, My suggestion is if your using the new braided lines like spectron you loosen your drag.I like to wrap the line around my hand and pull hard if it doesn't pull you have it to tight you want it to give alittle. Remember theres no stretch on those tpyes of lines and you will rip the hook right out of there mouth.It works for me.GOOD LUCK

Posted 11/3/2002 6:41 PM (#42951)
Subject: Drag Setting


I like a tight drag for casting... not so easy to move a bait and bury the hooks properly, no matter how long or short the rod, or what type of line... monofilament being the worst!

However, for trolling, you'll do MUCH better if you back your drag down some. I run about 10 pounds for smaller baits (7" or less), and around 11-12 pounds for bigger baits. I may even go to 13 for wood baits, but no more. Since I backed my drag down, my losses have dropped dramatically. With 4000 pounds of boat moving forward, that is a LOT of hook-setting power that no angler can come close to matching while casting. My guess is that a tighter drag tears the mouth. Once you cross 15 pounds, you run the risk of split rings and hooks starting to bend. Do your self a favour, and set your drag with a scale - don't guess!!!!

Steve Wickens

Posted 11/4/2002 7:55 AM (#42952)
Subject: Drag Setting


I like to keep my drag light and let my thumb contol my drag. Then I only have me to blame for foul ups. This method seems to be best with the new braided lines. Also your reels last much longer when your drag setting is loose. Try it a couple of times if you don't use this method I'll bet you chance.
Tony Grant www.kymuskie.com

Posted 12/23/2002 10:02 AM (#42953)
Subject: Drag Setting


With casting I also like a tight drag.But in trolling aplications I like a loose drag.I want to be able to pull the line off the spool with two fingers.If one thinks this is too loose,have someone hold the rod you take the other end of the line and see how hard a time you will have pulling out line.Sharp hooks are a must as well.I use Okuma 50L Levelwind / Leverdrag Reels.You can preset the reel drag adjustment so that you are loose when trolling and then after you have the rod in hand with tension on the fish and the boat has slowed down,push the lever of the drag forward tightening your drag to the fighting setting.The drag lever can't go past a stop button,you already have the drag preset at the tightest point where hooks will not bend or leader will not break.Where this system works the best is late in the year when water tempratures are near 40 degrees or lower.Durring cold water periods,big fish will swim up behind a crankbait and grab it very lightly,if the fish feels no give,they just open their mouth and let it go at times.These are those short rips and nothing is there.One must have an eye on the rods at all times,the slightest dead rod tip,grab and set instantly.When your moving slow below 2.0 mph trolling and they hit lightly,tight drag may cost you a fish.When your going 5.0 mph or faster,a tight drag may mean hooks pulled through the fishes mouth.I've seen other boats that got big fish on and you see the fish pulled to the surface,the drag is so tight that no line is pulling out,the fish rolls on the surface of the water with the big crankbait being leveraged agianst its head,OFF GONE!I've been using light drags for many years,along with sharp hooks.
Capt. Larry D. Jones
http://www.mostlymuskies.com

Posted 12/23/2002 10:52 PM (#42954)
Subject: Drag Setting


Great question. I have changed my drag preference many times over the years. A few mishaps in a row will do that to you.........

For the past few years I have been setting my drag like B.S. I wrap the line around my hand and pull hard making sure I can pull some line out. I use 80lb. Power Pro and haven't had any issues doing it this way. I have been able to get good hooks into any fish that has hit at boatside and subsequently, line will come off the reel as needed without jeopardizing the ensuing battle.

Word to the wise - be careful in the cold weather - super lines will cut the skin easily!

Check your drag before you start fishing - every time out AND check it periodically throughout the day.

Good luck!

Posted 1/1/2003 1:13 PM (#42955)
Subject: Drag Setting


Drags are dynamic. Therefore, I teach my son (and anyone else who cares) to adjust for the application. As a lifelong bass angler (and recent musky convert) my practice has been to check my drag frequently. If nothing else, it is a constant reminder that this is one element I do have control over. Fish may hit hard or soft, from the side or rear, trolling or casting, 5lbs. or 50lbs. Who knows! But, if I'm always thinking about what I have control over (i.e. drag setting vs line type/rod type/casting/trolling) when the time comes to jerk hard, I should be pre-adjusted for the situation I'm currently in. Beyond that, I dare a 50# sow to break my wrist. It would make for an exciting experience. But, I try to stack the deck in my favor so I won't wind up in the hospital or rip the lips off a fish. Stiffer rods/tighter drags/ no-stretch line to move the wood baits in the mouth. Lighten up a little for hair and/or trolling. Good Luck to all!

Posted 1/2/2003 8:38 AM (#42956)
Subject: Drag Setting


I tend to keep a tight drag so I can get a good hookset, you never know when the fish will hit (at the boat or as soon as the bait hits the water) this lets me have confidence that my line will not slip and I wont get a good hook set. You can always loosen the drag as needed for a big fish, but for the hook set "TIGHT DRAG"

You have to remember to back off your drag once you get a good hook set, the hooks and terminal tackle are not made to take that abuse and will eventually fail under stress resulting in broken split rings or snaps and a nice fish being lost with your lure stuck to it's face.

You will develope your own ideas as to what setting works best for you with trial and error, everyone looses fish for one reason or another and then they make a change.