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Posts: 642
Location: Richfield, MN | Like I have stated many times I am building up my suppy of musky gear and I am wondering about leaders. There are a few different types out there.
From what I see there are leaders made out of flurocarbon and steel leaders.
I have a couple of questions.
1. what is the better material to use and why
2. What length is the best to use.
3. With using different lures does one have to use a certain type and length of leader as well.
I need to get a couple of leaders to start out with. I am running out of money and would like to find some leaders that are good overall for all baits. Or maybe 4 or 5 different ones to cover what ever it is I am throwing for lures.
As always I am really thankfull that this site exists for those of us that are clues less. Which would be ME!!!!
Thanks in advance for every ones help!!!
THanks
Mike
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Posts: 189
Location: West Bend, WI | Don't go cheap on leaders. It's just not worth it. Stealth tackle makes great leaders. Lots of info on his website to help you get the right ones.
http://www.stealthtackle.net |
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Posts: 279
| Just get a couple of stealth fluorocarbon leaders(they are like 14") for all uses except walk the dog baits(topwater or gliders). For those use the wire in about 174lb I think most are 10"-12". |
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Posts: 1243
Location: Musky Tackle Online, MN | I agree on going with Stealth. The best leaders available - fluoro and wire. I use their standard 130# fluoro casting leaders for all baits, including walk the dog baits. But he does make wire leaders that are intended to be used for walk the dog baits for better action. If you do any trolling, pick up a couple of his trolling leaders (36"ers) and you'll be set there as well. Fluoro is more expensive up front than wire leaders. But they last longer than wire and will actually cost less in the long run.
Aaron |
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Posts: 4053
Location: Land of the Musky | +1 to AWH
James |
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Posts: 458
| Stealth is great and their fluorocarbon and WTD leader are fantastic! |
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| I recently picked up a couple of the Tyrant tackle leaders and they seem to be pretty tough. I like the fact that they come in 12 and 18" and you get two for the price of one stealth leader. Stealth leaders are great though and I've always used them in the past. But IMO, the Tyrant leaders are well built and a little easier on the wallet.
By the way, I like the 12" for WTD lures and 18" for everything else. |
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| http://huskiemuskie.ca/?page_id=4
just better by design,give that lil extra action needed by crankbaits.
honest pricing |
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Posts: 378
Location: Michigan | I was making these for the profit of MMA Chapter #47 MI, but have stopped for the fishing season. However, it would give you an idea about construction if you were to make your own. I have had zero failures with hundreds on the water, and they are all I use...
http://www.michiganmuskiealliance.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2062&h...
If you don't have access to the forum, here is the post for the club:
Single Strand Stainless
The components I use are:
Mason wire #120 or #174
Sampo or Thorn Bros. Ball Bearing 150lb swivels
Bucher #7 split rings or Stringease Stay-lok #250 or #300
Solid steel welded rings
These are made using a Boggs tackle maker, which allows me to make a few haywire twist-like wraps after I make the loop and then go in to a tight and uniform barrel wrap to finish it off. This reduces the work hardening of the wire close to the loop where the highest strain potential exists, thus reducing the likelihood of a failure.
Jerkbait - $3.00 w/SR & $3.50 w/snap
Best used for jerkbaits or baits that don’t have the potential to spin. The leader is 12” and has solid steel rings at each end and then a Bucher split ring on one end. You can request either #120 or #174 wire.
General Purpose - $3.50 w/SR & $4.00 w/snap
Great for baits that spin like bucktails or topwater, but also work great for cranks. The general purpose leader is 12” and has a Sampo swivel at one end. On the other end, a solid ring and either a Bucher split ring or Stay-lok snap. Available in #120 or #174 (I use a #250 snap on the #120 leader and #300 on the #174 leader).
Fluorocarbon/Hard Mono
I use the following components. Again, only the best…
Seaguar Fluorocarbon leader material - #85 or #135 for Casting or trolling
Maxima Hard Mono leader material - #60 for trolling leaders only
Sampo 150lb swivels
Bucher #7 split rings or Stringease Stay-lok #250 or #300
Solid steel welded rings
Jinkai stainless anti chaffing springs
Jinkai aluminum sleeves
72” 60# Hard Mono Trolling Leader- $5.00
This leader is ideal for trolling applications where you are going to use weight in front of the lure. When a weight is used it is ~6 feet in front of the lure, and effectively catches weeds, which keep the lure running clean. It is also a good length for protecting the fish if it rolls. These are what I use on LSC.
Construction: I use Maxima Hard Mono for its high abrasion resistance, clarity, and economy (fluoro is just too darn expensive to make 6’ leaders…). I tie these, as opposed to crimps for the absolute strongest termination at each end. These are built with a Sampo swivel and Stay-lok 250# snap at one end and a solid ring with a 250# Stay-lok snap on the other.
24” 135# Fluorocarbon Trolling Leader- $7.00
This leader is ideal for applications where you do not have floating weeds and are pulling big or high vibration baits (jointed). Thorpe uses something similar when trolling on the Ottawa and St. Lawrence.
12” 135# Fluorocarbon Casting Leader - $5.75
Great for muskie when throwing average to larger size baits. I recommend using this leader for baits in which you utilize a steady retrieve such as bucktails, spinnerbaits, and topwater. I do not recommend this leader for twitch, glide, or jerk baits. And, only use this with cranks when a steady retrieve is used. The single strand stainless are better for twitching.
Construction - Fluoro Leaders:
The Fluoro leaders are constructed with aluminum crimps because the 85# and 135# material is nearly impossible to tie, and to reduce bulk. They are crimped using a cup to cup crimp tool. The crimp is the most important part of the construction of these leaders. I have a high quality crimp tool specifically designed for crimping the aluminum sleeves I use. Aluminum is used so as not to risk cutting in to the leader material. Copper, steel, or brass is more likely to cut in to the leader material increasing the risk for failure.
A chaffing spring is used in each loop to minimize the risk of wear. On one end, a Sampo swivel, and the other a solid ring with a 250# or 300# Stay-lok snap.
I have done my homework and these are put together with the very best components available. Are the best components required? Why risk terminal tackle failure with lesser quality components?
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Location: SE Wisconsin | I make my own and I think their as good as any packaged leader... I can make 3 leaders for the price of one particular brand. I make them in 100lb and 130lb. and trust them 100%.
I use a longer flourocarbon leader for rubber. Generally, I'll tie 15-18" leaders for Dawgs and 12-14" for bucktails.
Top water I'll stick to flourocarbon, but I'll shorten up to a 10".
Jerkbaits and gliders I'm usually throwing a solid wire leader - I like Bucher's for the price. |
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| Stealth Tackle:
- best quality components in the business
- hand tied, crimped, and glued...no failures
- i know that each one is made by a guy in Illinois
call John up and talk to him for 5 minutes about what goes into making his leaders and you'll quickly see that quality is more important than being cheap.
Stealth Fishing Tackle & Fishing Leaders
http://www.stealthtackle.net
"Clearly The Leader"
John Bette
Cell: 708-466-5066
Email: [email protected]
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| I think the Matey comment was directed at me. The reason we got into the leader business is our manufacture of the Tyrant sent us samples of leaders with a lure order. After testing them and talking to our pro staff we decided it would be a nice addition to our line of musky products. |
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Location: Northern Wisconsin | I bought a 3 dollar leader from the musky shop a week ago, it was made by a well known lure company, an hour ago I lost what could have been my first 50", and now its probably going to die because the leader broke and left a hugue curly sue in it's throat. |
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Location: Northern Wisconsin | I bought a 3 dollar leader from the musky shop a week ago, it was made by a well known bucktail company, an hour ago I lost what could have been my first 50", and now its probably going to die because the leader broke and left a hugue curly sue in it's throat. |
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| be sure and check the crimps on any fluorocarbon leaders B4 you purchase one
stealth tackle does it right ....... quality and reliability second to none.
isn't worth scrimping a few pennies on a leader when a person is tossing a $25.00 (sometimes more) lure day in and day out.
made for muskie fisherman by a muskie fisherman
in case some of you guys didn't know johnny b is a good stick too!
give him a call, 708-466-5066 and he will set you up with any length you want
check out his website too
www.stealthtackle.net
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Posts: 440
| Making your own single strand wire leaders is the most reliable and cheapest route to go when starting. Just need a roll of wire and needle nose pliars and away you go. After your first one, it might take 30 seconds to make a new leader. That is if you drop a piece. Add the flourocarbon later when more funds become available.  There are good how to's on you tube. |
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Posts: 642
Location: Richfield, MN | First off I want to tank everyone for there input and helping a total rookie out.
Chasing50 I want to thank for taking the time to post the link and all the info within that link. Very interesting ead. Thank you very much
Now to go out and get a couple to get things stated and might this winter look into making my own after hunting season is over.
Thanks to all again. Once again this site proves why it is number one!!!
Mike |
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Posts: 323
| charlier2753 on ebay makes a great leader. he uses seaguar flourocarbon from 50lb to 300lb test and will make them anyway you want. his swivels and snaps are of the highest quality,but what really sets them apart is the fact the before he double crimps them he ties them first with a big game cable knot witch unlike most knots retains 100% of the lines pound test then double crimps the tag ends. he also 100% guarantees his leaders. i don't believe anyone else does. he also makes single strand wire leaders and mono up to 200lb test. |
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Posts: 1
Location: Chetek, Wi | Hi Muddy, leaderguy16 here... first off, I am not a pro at Musky Fishing. I have been doing it for a longtime tho. I found out 4 yrs ago about Fluorocarbon leaders while fishing up at the North West Angle with a guy who invited to take a trip with him there. Long story short... I found out just how expensive they can be buying(up to $9-$10.00 at Muskie Shops) them, so I started making them for myself. I use Hi Seas Fluor 60-80 lb test. I also use Stay Lok snaps, 200 lb test or Scheel's 75 lb test ball bearing coast lok snaps. I do not tie then with knots, I use 1.00mm double crimps so secure them. I can make my leaders for about $2.00. I have been making them for about 4yrs now and have not had one fail on me or by anyone else who has used them! My leaders have boated pike and Muskie up to 50" inches. My leaders are used for either casting or trolling, also for top water walk the dog baits. I know there are lots of Musky guys better than I am and probably will make comments about what I have just posted. If you are anyone else may be interested in my leaders, just e-mail me and then I'll give out my phone number and we can talk. Have a good time "Hunting", lol. Don't forget ,, its fall and those fresh water predators are on the feed bag!
leaderguy16
[email protected] |
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