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| Hi Guys:
This post is in relation to the post I made a few days ago about my GPS draining my battery.
I got several suggestions that I needed a switch to be able to cut the main power when I am not using it.
I have free "ACC" switch on my dashboard that I am assuming I can use to shut power on or off.
Here's the problem, I cannot figure out how to wire the GPS to that switch. I have a fuse box under the dash and poked around and cannot figure out where the switch is wired to.
It's a Cresltliner Fishhawk.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Posts: 393
Location: Hopefully on the water | Ball Cap,
If you take a wire tester and flip the "ACC" switch on, on the dash. Go to the fuse bank and check the "ACC" spot on there. That would be the spot in the fuse panel that opperates that switch on the dash. I did it with my FishHawk when I had it. It was pretty easy to do. I basically had 2 fuses then. 1 on the fuse block and the inline one going to the GPS. If that is more than you would like to do then you could pick up a rocker switch and wire it inline and just throw the switch when not in use also. |
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Posts: 443
Location: Duluth, MN | I just put in a basic toggle switch on the dash right next to the head unit in-line with the power wires going to the battery...then i remember to flip the switch off everytime i leave the boat. |
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Posts: 38
| Rule #1 of wiring... use a relay! Don't just wire it in to that switch, wire it up so the switch triggers the relay. |
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| You should be able to determine which fuse by tracing the wire, tug on it and trace it a few inch's at a time until you are there. There is a pretty good chance that that switch is already powered, if it is illuminated (my crestliner has) you could pull fuses one at a time and see which one the light on the switch goes out. Most of the stuff is labled on the fuse block, so that should narrow it down to a couple options. I would put the same amp fuse in the fuse block that came with the unit in-line (usually 3 amp), no need to double fuse-every connection is a corrosion point, limiting these is best. I would advise against a relay, relays are for larger loads that the switch contacts couldn't handle, not the case here, just another problem point. Remember if you have two graphs networked, and the gps puck on the network, you have to have a switch on the network.
pmv |
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| The only reason you need to see where that switch is wired in to the fuse block is to verify or install the proper fuse size. One wire from that graph will just land on the other side of the switch. If the switch is illuminated, pretty good chance the positive and negative are both on that switch. See which one is being switched and the other two will land on the same terminal.
If your still having problems pm me and I'll give you my cell number, should be able to walk you through it.
pmv |
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| I figured out which terminal the switch is connected to. Do I just unhook the wire that is on there now and hook in the GPS wire? That's the terminal that lights the switch up. I'm curious though that when I unhook that wire, the switch will no longer light up?
Keep in mind, I am a CPA and have the electrical knowledge of a monkey =o)
Thanks
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Posts: 28
| Ok, If you read my posts- now you know what fuse runs that switch- what size is the fuse in that spot on the fuse block- usually electronics are protected with a 3 amp fuse- the units are usually supplied with a in-line fuse-in the box that they came in- look at it- if it is the same style fuse that fits in the fuse block install it- otherwise go to the nearest auto supply store and buy the right style fuse, right amp, and install it. You have a 12volt dc electrical system in your boat for the lights, pumps, etc (anything off of that fuse block) there are two wires for a 12v dc circut- a positive and a negative. The wire running to that switch, that you traced out is the positive, this wire powers one side of that switch-you need to terminate the positive wire from your graph on the other side of that switch(should be two terminals). Now when you hit that switch the two terminals connect internally and power runs through the switch powering your graph-open the switch-the contact is broken and no power flows to your graph. I'd explain the negative thing, but I think you'll get confused. The graph runs now-just run that positive wire through that switch and install the right size fuse and you'll be fine.
If it is easier, think of running a garden hose to your sprinkler and turning the valve on or off. The fuse block is the water inside the house, the spicket or valve is the switch and the sprinkler is the graph. Power is running from the fuse block to the swich-if it is closed your graph gets power-open no power.
pmv
Edited by PMV 6/20/2010 7:40 PM
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| I don't see a 2nd terminal where that switch wire is connnected.
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Posts: 28
| All right I just took a peak at my crestliner accesory switch, There is a wire that is about 12" long hanging loose, not connected to anything off of that switch, thats the spot for your graph positive wire. It looks like each switch has different color wires- mine was orange/blue to the fuse block and a orange wire was the one hanging there, ready to be hooked up. Please keep in mind your colors could be different. But if you have one color that is different from all the others, you can use this to trace the wire.
pmv |
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| My red wire was the one hooked to the switch. Anyways, I just let my buddy take my boat to his inlaws cabin for 2 weeks.
So when he gets back in a couple weeks, I will reach out to you for help again if I need it.
Hey, wanted to let you know I REALLY appreciate your help ... even though I'm an idiot and can't figure it out. Ha
Thanks again! |
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| No problem on the help, it would be the same for you explaining to me a mathamatical equation for some accounting situation or big spreadsheet. Doing this on-line isn't the easiest either.
You may have to tug on the wires a little to find that one with the 12" tail of wire you need. They have them bundled up pretty good. Nice of the factory to put that tail on, that way you don't have to get your hands up to that switch, mines kind of a tight spot.
I can't stress enough how important the fuse size is. This is the most important part of the circuit. My accesorry switch has a 5 amp fuse. Put the fuse that your locator requires in, "bigger is better" theory is totally wrong in this case.
best of luck and report back if you get it to work.
pmv |
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Accessory Switch on dashboard help ...