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Posts: 134
| What is the best leader to use for glidebaits such as the Musky Buster Appealer or the Phantom? I have been using a home-made version of the Gregg Thomas Hybrid Leader. Not sure these lures are being all they can be. Is it best to just eliminate the snap and use a split ring? If I was to use just a straight wire leader, w/ or w/o fluoro, what length? Any suggestions would be great. Also, what length and weight of rod is ideal for these type of lures?
Matt |
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Posts: 574
| I use straight wire, 174lb I think. No swivel, no snap. Split ring it to the bait.
Others will tell you flouro works fine and that may be true. BUT the wire works easier and (arguably) better.
For length, as long as it longer than your bait it shouldn't have issues with hooks hitting line, line fouling on the front of the bait etc.. I think mine are about 10-12 inches. Same leader I use for WTD surface lures witch seem to work noticeably better without the weight of the swivel. |
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Posts: 1030
Location: APPLETON, WI | I actually use Stealth Leader's "walk-the-dog" leader... some vendors may label it as their "jerkbait" leader but it's essentially one of the same.
I still use a snap... but no ball bearing swivel. I've not really had any issues at all but it's all a matter of personal preference. I use this same set-up for my jerkbaits, gliders and walk-the-dog topwater baits. |
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Posts: 501
Location: Norway | I normally use a solidwire, no snap, just splitring. But I threw one of my own gliders with a hybrid leader, and the bait ran fine, and with less metal in front of the bait, it ran a couple of tads shallower. So I think Ill make a hybrid gliderleader, a bit shorter fluoro...
Michael |
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Posts: 547
Location: Oshkosh | I do it the same way as Jason.
Peter |
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Posts: 185
Location: On the water | 12 inch 220 lb fluoro leader with solid ring on the front and with a ball bearing swivel.
Works fine for any glider or wtd topwater bait.
the 220 fluro is pretty stiff and almost works like a steel wire. |
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Posts: 582
| solid single strand wire works well for these. |
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Posts: 96
Location: Eau Claire | For those of you who use a split ring and single strand, do you leave the wire attached to the bait? If so how do you attach it to your line, cut and tie every time or something else? I use manta's a lot and they get hooked up once in a while. I used shrink tube to keep the snap straight on the single strand and that seemed to help but I still get hooked up once in a while. Just looking for more ideas to try. |
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Posts: 185
Location: On the water | Kuhly - 5/21/2010 6:08 PM
For those of you who use a split ring and single strand, do you leave the wire attached to the bait? If so how do you attach it to your line, cut and tie every time or something else? I use manta's a lot and they get hooked up once in a while. I used shrink tube to keep the snap straight on the single strand and that seemed to help but I still get hooked up once in a while. Just looking for more ideas to try.
Splitring on all of your baits front eye and than just connect to the leader.
I like to add a solid ring at the end of the leader to prevent the leader wire to run into the split ring..
Manta's are the only baits that foul sometimes for me.. But only when I let them really glide out.. I just work them a little tighter and that seems to work fine..
Marcel |
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Posts: 994
Location: Minnesota: where it's tough to be a sportsfan! | I typically use a solid wire- split ring -to another solid wire leader. This acts like a hinge in the middle and let's a glide...glide. I use a split ring on the bait and just run the wire loop into that. Some I have swivels on the line end some I don't. Some baits just seem to charge forward and they seem to catchup with the leader. Others aren't so bad at that and tend to glide out and away from the center point. The ones that charge forward are the ones I use the leader set w/o swivel on it. |
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Posts: 547
Location: Oshkosh | What I do to attach my leader to the rod at the end of the day with a leader that I attach with split rings is I took an old snap from an old leader and I just leave that attached to the hook holder at the end of the fore grip on the rod. At the end of the day I just snap it on there.
Peter |
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Posts: 582
| i use a standard wire leader with the snap lock attached to the bait. I see no reason to split ring it to the bait. I tied the other end to the line using the swivel. Never lost a fish. Sometimes i think people just way over do it. If you are working your rod tip right, the snap will not affect the bait action. At least not for me. i have caught many fish doing it this way. |
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Posts: 774
Location: South East Wisconsin | “Split ring on all of your baits front eye and than just connect to the leader.
I like to add a solid ring at the end of the leader to prevent the leader wire to run into the split ring.”
+1
Anybody have any experience with a swivel on the leader when working a Manta? Their web page says that you are supposed too. With all glide baits I have always just used a split ring with no swivel.
In addition to the fouling will (T ing) the back hook reduce overall fouling?
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Posts: 292
Location: SW MI | Spro 200lb. solid wire. I cut it down from 12" to 9". |
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Posts: 614
Location: Michigan | Don't need to have a split ring on every bait. Just have one split ring always attached to your leader. |
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Posts: 1348
Location: Pewaukee, WI | If you use that one split ring at the end of your leader to attach all your baits you run the risk of weakening the metal or worse, causing a gap or opening in the split ring by continually opening and closing it to take baits off and on.  |
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Posts: 2894
Location: Yahara River Chain | A couple of ideas.
1) attach your snap-less leaders to your lure keeper (or the foot of your guide) at the end of the day - I use a large paper clip.
2) you don't need a swivel if the bait doesn't roll over.
3) using a solid ring a the bait end of your leader will decrease (maybe eliminate?) the chances of the wire snaking out on you. But if you are using .029 dia wire (174#) or greater and make sure you place the open end of the split ring near the eye of the bait you will be fine. The heavier the leader the less need for a solid ring.
4) always leave the split ring on your bait. The extra dia opening/closing needed to go over an eye of a bait will fatigue the split ring and weakening it quicker than you can imagine and the ring will not close tightly and you risk losing that bait on a cast.
5) Snaps are a weak link (IMHO) and are not symmetrical and may not give the very best action. Best action, isn't that what we strive for?
The last thing I will add is that if you would like a two page instruction on making single strand leaders (in PDF format) email me and I will gladly send it to you. My email is [email protected]
Happy jerkin'
Edited by muskie! nut 5/23/2010 8:17 AM
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Glide Bait Leader