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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | I've got a 6500 and a 5500 abu c3's that i'm having a problem with. When I tighten the cast control knob tight enough to keep them from backlashing so easy, it makes them harder to reel when retrieving baits.....I can back off on the knob and it reels fine again, but backlashes alot easier. I'm just wondering if this is normal for these reels, or is there something not set right inside the reel? I've got another 6500 that doesn't do this, but for some reason these other two do. I have taken these two apart to oil them, so i'm just wondering if I didn't do something just right when re-assembling them? They reel fine, they're not rough or anything...just harder to reel when I tighten the cast control knob? Does anyone have any ideas on whats causing this? |
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Location: Latitude 41.3016 Longitude 88.6160 | How old are the reels ??? if they are less then 3 years old then it will have the 6 pin brake, see pic below, open up reel and look on the side of the spool and just pull out more brakes to slow down the reel. And you can reoil the spool bearings with some ABU OIL and re- grease the worm line guide with ABU grease, that will slow down the reel alittle.
Edited by PIKEMASTER 5/18/2009 9:39 AM
Attachments ---------------- 2203709287438080_1.jpg (2KB - 111 downloads)
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Posts: 1270
| Pikemaster is on the right track. If they are newer reels that have the 6 pin system "pop" out some more of the brakes. If it is an older 2 pin system your brake blocks might be wore out or you need heavier blocks. If you still have the little bag that came with the reel try installing the white (heviest) blocks and see how it works.
FYI all reel except the Abu Records will get harder to reel when the cast control is tightened down. |
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Posts: 134
Location: East TN | Ok, Thanks guys. These do have the 6-pin system on them, so i'll see about adjusting them out to where I can leave the cast control knob a little more loose. Thanks for the tips. |
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Posts: 73
Location: Indiana | Pikemaster and Reelman are both correct. Pulling out the brake blocks inside does work...definately try that, but try this first
You shouldn't ever need to tighten down the cast control that much. Three things you can do...first, let the lure have a little more line before you cast it...this will let the lure sort of pull the line from the spool as it's cast. The second thing is to fill your spool completely full of line...more line on there means a greater diameter, which means fewer rotations of the spool for the same amount of line...so essentially less brake is needed and there's less room for a backlash. And the third thing you should do is use your thumb...your thumb should be just barely off the spool when you cast. When you hear and feel the spool spinning a little too fast, you lightly lower your thumb onto the spool to slow it down. When I first started muskie fishing, I would raise my thumb all the way off the spool and completely rely on the cast control. With the C3's and C4's, I probably had it like yours...where it was way to tough to reel.
Here's the real issue though (no pun intended)...when you tighten the cast control all the way down, there is a plastic gear on the other side of the spool on which you're putting quite a bit of pressure. If you strip the edge off that gear, it causes side to side play in your reel...completely eliminating the cast control function and generally making your reel run like craparoo.
Muskie lures put a hell of a toll on rods and reels. The reels aren't quite capable of doing all the work themselves...in this case they need your help. So before you take your reel apart like the other guys suggested, I'd say your best bet would be to let out a bit more line before the cast, make sure your spool is full, and to use your thumb as the brake. If that doesn't work, then take it apart. |
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| Just learn how to cast with out that piece. I run mine so lose that several times a year the twist knob piece will fall off the reel because it is only being held on by about 1/2 of a thread.
Also, if you can't figure out how to do that. Get a different reel.
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Posts: 135
Location: Irvine, KY | When I started muskie fishing I had the same problem and found that 90% or more of backlashes have little to do with the reel at all. Instead they are because of the rods youre matching your baits with, and no amount of braking in the reel can compare to simply putting the lures on the right rods. I run my cast control practically wide open now as well.
Then I finaly understood why everyone uses so many different rods
I think line selection plays a small role as well... if youre using Power Pro, you might try a switch to Cortland. But the correct rod will help more than anything else you could possibly do... IMO
Edited by Muskiecut 5/18/2009 12:35 PM
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